Front tires caused axle failure...?

[sd455dan]

Widening the tires is a none issue if a tractor is was design for that........

JD's King pinned, Planetary outer drives, and U joint axle shafts are stronger for sure... and much more common on 55 hp and up utility tractors of other brands to.

i don't know about it being a non issue... but agree the size and robustness can be adjusted to build in more likelihood of long term success under load / hard use.

this is the outer housing for my 55 hp Rhino it may be "chinese" but they built this axle strong- outer drive housing is mounted in double shear, (Something Kubota and others do on some models but usually not their smallest CUT's) outer wheel bearing O.D. is almost 4 inches in diameter, the outer drive stub axle is retained by a large nut not just a circlip , ring gear must be about 13 inches since the wheel is a 20"



One of the few reasons I finally sold my 2 wheel drive Ford 3000. The front axle was just not up to lots of FEL work front bearings or axle strength. Ford addressed the front axle weakness with their industrial models and also made the oil sump pan out of cast iron to make it even stronger to support the front axle cradle.The 4X models like the 3930 and like Ford models use a design like the JD pictured above very strong and long lived.

The front axles on these new CUT's is a good thing to look at closely if the plan is lots of loader work.
i wouldn't want one that does not have double shear mounted outer hubs.

Placing all of the load on just 1 pivot turning surface is just not as good of design -jmo and the size of the front differential 3rd member/ pumpkin is also a bit of a worry from looking at some of these new 30-55 horse tractors.
I see most where there isn't even an increase in the diameter where the ring pinion set. Sure seems like back in the 1970-2010's MFWD tractors the front ring and pinion still seemed to be good sized,

Those gears just can't be very big to fit in those housings...

oh well enoughconcerns/ bashing of these new CUTs I still want to get one with a cab...

 

[Oldpath05]

JD's King pinned, Planetary outer drives, and U joint axle shafts are stronger for sure... and much more common on 55 hp and up utility tractors of other brands to.

i don't know about it being a non issue... but agree the size and robustness can be adjusted to build in more likelihood of long term success under load / hard use.

this is the outer housing for my 55 hp Rhino it may be "chinese" but they built this axle strong- outer drive housing is mounted in double shear, (Something Kubota and others do on some models but usually not their smallest CUT's) outer wheel bearing O.D. is almost 4 inches in diameter, the outer drive stub axle is retained by a large nut not just a circlip , ring gear must be about 13 inches since the wheel is a 20"

View attachment 668742

One of the few reasons I finally sold my 2 wheel drive Ford 3000. The front axle was just not up to lots of FEL work front bearings or axle strength. Ford addressed the front axle weakness with their industrial models and also made the oil sump pan out of cast iron to make it even stronger to support the front axle cradle.The 4X models like the 3930 and like Ford models use a design like the JD pictured above very strong and long lived.

The front axles on these new CUT's is a good thing to look at closely if the plan is lots of loader work.
i wouldn't want one that does not have double shear mounted outer hubs.

Placing all of the load on just 1 pivot turning surface is just not as good of design -jmo and the size of the front differential 3rd member/ pumpkin is also a bit of a worry from looking at some of these new 30-55 horse tractors.
I see most where there isn't even an increase in the diameter where the ring pinion set. Sure seems like back in the 1970-2010's MFWD tractors the front ring and pinion still seemed to be good sized,

Those gears just can't be very big to fit in those housings...

oh well enoughconcerns/ bashing of these new CUTs I still want to get one with a cab...

That is one rugger looking front end, I'll have to look that tractor up. Yep I agree these Kubota compact front ends just dont seem strong enough for constant loader work, I just assumed that Kubota knew what they was doing in designing these compacts by matching the right front tire size to the right size front housing, thats why I have no interest in upping the hydraulic FEL pressure. On the other hand my small tractor is not designed to reverse the front wheels like in that JD picture, if I did I'd most likely snap my front end in half, my rear wheels can be reverse or set out but I prefer narrow and careful.

No those gears cant be to big but how big do they have to be to spin one tire, atv's aren't big either, I just stay with the tire size it comes with. Tractors with a cab would be nice on some days, most days, everyday, one with AC and heat, yeah I could use to that. It almost seems like we need three different size tractors on one small budget...

 

[sd455dan]

That is one rugger looking front end, I'll have to look that tractor up. Yep I agree these Kubota compact front ends just dont seem strong enough for constant loader work, I just assumed that Kubota knew what they was doing in designing these compacts by matching the right front tire size to the right size front housing, thats why I have no interest in upping the hydraulic FEL pressure. On the other hand my small tractor is not designed to reverse the front wheels like in that JD picture, if I did I'd most likely snap my front end in half, my rear wheels can be reverse or set out but I prefer narrow and careful.

No those gears cant be to big but how big do they have to be to spin one tire, atv's aren't big either, I just stay with the tire size it comes with. Tractors with a cab would be nice on some days, most days, everyday, one with AC and heat, yeah I could use to that. It almost seems like we need three different size tractors on one small budget...

Concerning the size of the front axles central differential (3rd member pumpkin) on tractors, in some cases think it really isn't so much about horsepower as it is Torque.
was just thinking about this when moving large square bales out of the barn the other day.
I had to put it in 4x4 when backing out of the barn because there is a incline to keep from spinning a rear tire. Unfortunately i also have to turn the tractor pretty sharply to miss a power pole.
When the drivetrain gets bound up like that it is hard to pop the tractor out of 4 and there must be quite a bit of force built up in the axles and gearsets even though the tires are barely turning at all+ add in the fact that the steering wheel is being turned so the front outer housings have to rotate while also supporting all that FEL weight it is no wonder parts break or wear out sometimes.


It almost seems like we need three different size tractors on one small budget..

Tractors with a cab would be nice on some days, most days, everyday, one with AC and heat, yeah I could use to that.

Yeah it sure would be nice

 

[Oldpath05]

Concerning the size of the front axles central differential (3rd member pumpkin) on tractors, in some cases think it really isn't so much about horsepower as it is Torque.
was just thinking about this when moving large square bales out of the barn the other day.
I had to put it in 4x4 when backing out of the barn because there is a incline to keep from spinning a rear tire. Unfortunately i also have to turn the tractor pretty sharply to miss a power pole.
When the drivetrain gets bound up like that it is hard to pop the tractor out of 4 and there must be quite a bit of force built up in the axles and gearsets even though the tires are barely turning at all+ add in the fact that the steering wheel is being turned so the front outer housings have to rotate while also supporting all that FEL weight it is no wonder parts break or wear out sometimes.

It almost seems like we need three different size tractors on one small budget..

Tractors with a cab would be nice on some days, most days, everyday, one with AC and heat, yeah I could use to that.

Yeah it sure would be nice

At my place I hardly ever have the tractor out of 4 wheel drive but when I take it out I always do it while there is no load on drive train. CUTs like mine have only one wheel in front with power at one time, it's not limited slip so it will come out fairly easy, at best mine is 3 wheel drive, and thats one more reason why I'd like to have a full size tractor so I can have 4 wheel drive. Even on 4 wheel drive pickups its best to go in and out while in no load, I knew someone 20 years ago on a brand new Ford Ranger turned the dial while stuck, well something didn't quite lock in and BANG, but he still got it fixed under warranty.

 

[ptsg]

This ain't Europe where no one is working in woods with a FEL.... SO I strongly disagree, yeah maybe 70 years ago but after that when tractor companies started put FEL on tractors they have to design the tractor for that, just like when they design wheels to reverse outward, hilly ground requires wheels to be outward so if tractor companies make it for that they better make it so it will wont fail, if it fails under designed use then they should be held liable. People need to realize,what is a tractor,,,, is for babying or is for work and work hard, but by most here, a tractor is meant to be babied, treated like eggs, if you people want to baby something then buy a Chevy...........

I for one am not going to baby a tractor, I'll work it and work it hard til its all but a bucket of bolts and that bucket of bolts or tractor will have a brand name on it when I'm done, so I'll settle for nothing less then a hard working tractor. Kubota take notice, I have a FEL with 5' bucket so if it fails to lift a bucket full of dirt over and over then Kubota has failed of being a hard working tractor, a tractor without FEL is the most useless thing there ever was unless alls you going to do is til the garden...............

So kubota take notice, heres my definition of a hard working tractor, not babying it like everyone here does, a man after mine own heart, starting>> @14:00
WICKED Grapple Testing FULL Video by Everything Attachments - YouTube

This is an Europe or US thing either. Tractors are pretty much the same worldwide, except for different features/options here and there.

All I said was that the tractors weren't design the in first place for loaders and still are not designed for loaders. The fact that they come with loaders with a manufacturers name on it, doesn't mean it was designed to have a loader. The loader is there because there is a demand for it and the manufacturer offer it. Most loaders are actually build by someone else for the tractor manufacturers.

If they changed the front axles over time, was mostly to accommodate for more steering angles and 4 wheel drive drive-train.

Any machine with loader, will have to change seals much more frequently. Either tractors, telehandlers, even actual loaders.. It's just the nature of the beast.

No one questioned if you were abusing your tractor or not. As far as I know, it's not my tractor, so I don't give a crap if you break it or not. I don't wish you that, but I still don't give a crap. You abuse it all you want.

If the tractors were actually designed for a loader, it would end up looking pretty much like a loader wouldn't it? With a bigger axle and wheels on the front to support all the extra forces.

 

[repete]

Always inflate your front tires to the max. A 1" decrease in the radius changes the ratio front to rear. If you put a load in the bucket, and it compresses the front tires, it further changes the ratio. Take a tire with nearly worn away front tread, then collapse it further under the weight of a load in the bucket, the ratio can get way out of whack.

I keep my fronts fully inflated to the max on the tire so as to make shifting in and out of 4WD easier should I need to shift on the fly. And sometimes when you live in hilly terrain you do not get an option but to shift on the fly when you inadvertently come down a driveway with a load in the bucket and you cannot stop yourself with rear brakes. Do not ask me how I know that....

 

[sd455dan]

Always inflate your front tires to the max. A 1" decrease in the radius changes the ratio front to rear. If you put a load in the bucket, and it compresses the front tires, it further changes the ratio. Take a tire with nearly worn away front tread, then collapse it further under the weight of a load in the bucket, the ratio can get way out of whack.

I keep my fronts fully inflated to the max on the tire so as to make shifting in and out of 4WD easier should I need to shift on the fly. And sometimes when you live in hilly terrain you do not get an option but to shift on the fly when you inadvertently come down a driveway with a load in the bucket and you cannot stop yourself with rear brakes. Do not ask me how I know that....

That's a REAL Good point.


I run my front tires at 35 PSI when carrying heavy loads on the FEL and with R1's they still bulge the sidewalls some. Another good way to test the wind up going on between front and rear axle is get in a straight line with the FEL loaded bucket engage the front axle and then drive forward several feet , set the bucket down and then use the bucket to lift the front tires off the ground. If the tires snap back and unwind the tension in the drive train, maybe some tire pressure adjustments may help from front to rear.
Mowing I will run the fronts down to about 24 psi for a better ride and keep the rears around 12 PSI all the time.

Some manuals don't tell the operator they can tune the tire pressures a bit.. I think its Nuts for people to inflate the rear tires in some cases to over 30 PSI and run like that all the time.

 

[Egon]

The bucket works as a very good brake. Better than the wheels.

 

[repete]

The bucket works as a very good brake. Better than the wheels.

BTDT! You learn how to make quick decisions. Keep the bucket as low as possible to the ground is always the best plan.

 

[Oldpath05]

I put tubes in my front AG tires, then inflate to max....