Front tires for loader

[blacksmith]

I 'm building a loader for my Dayton 990 tractor. I want to know what is the best front tire to use on grass for my tractor? I will only be using this tractor for a work tractor and not for mowing. The three styles are Tri-rib, Ag and Turf. My tire size is 8" rim with either 6.50 wide or 4.80/4.00. I have rims for both. I plan on using skid steer lug type for the rear. Here is my 2D sketch.

Here is my 3D drawing.

Here is my loader in progress.

 

[Renze]

I think you need to place the lower lifting cylinder pins a bit more forward to get any substantial lift at higher lift heights. the ram moves very close to it un upper position, reducing the effective arm on which the force works

 

[TOMDUALLY]

I am going to go with the Tri-Rib, more floatation and less lawn damage. I'm working on set-up basicly the same as yours so any extra pics drawings measurements that you could pass on would be really helpful. I like what I see so far, nice work.

 

[GT2]

Here is my loader in progress.

Nice job! Just an observation: Most loaders I've seen have a triangulation brace from the upper top of the rear post, down to the area of the front bumper. This will take a lot of stress off the lower rear frame mounts.
Maybe you already thought of this?

 

[BTDT]

Good job. I like the custom seat too. Did you rob that off of something else?

 

[Farmerford]

Nice looking metal work. I especially like the way you tapered the lift arms.

What are the ears/tabs at the tops of the rear posts?

Does the tractor already have hydraulic power or will you be adding it?

 

[billfires]

I would opt for 7.50 x 16-8 turf tires. They will cost a bit more but you need all the flotation you can get when your bucket is loaded. Bill C

 

[blacksmith]

I have a bar attached as shown in the marked up picture. I will post some newer pictures but I'm waiting now for my three spool hydraulic valve which is on back order due in now about March 5th.

The seat is boat seat for fishing I bought at a local tractor store It came with a swival plate that I removed. I have used this seat for over 15 years even in cold weather with out cracking.

The "tab" on the support post was going to be a self leveling device simular to the picture. I changed my mind after welding the one side so I kept it to lift it off the tractor if needed.

The tractor does have hydraulics but the flow is very low at 1.5 gpm. I added a pump on the tractor as shown. It is powered direct to the front of the engine with a belt drive. It will run all the time the engine is on. The front quick disconnect brackets are mounted on the wrong arm, the hole should be on the outside.

I also increased my tie rod ends as shown. The rod is 5/8 dia. Alloy steel instead of 1/2 dia.

 

[joes_427_vette]

Blacksmith; Couple questions, what thickness are you going with on the tubing ? Do the 4x4 uprights contain enough resovoir for hydraulic fluid ? I like the tapered front tubes but isn't there alot of stress at this point ? Do you think one could get by with a single bucket ram ? I have seen larger loaders with one ram operate and they seem to cycle faster. Is there that much force needed to move the bucket for most loader functions ? I realize if you want to dig out rocks, tree roots, ect it would be helpful to have more pressure. Nice work on the fabrication. I'm collecting ideas for a future loader project on a JD 4110. Three grand is just TOO much for a small loader.

 

[dynasim]

Just by looking, it seems like the front axles are going to limit how much you can carry. There probably isn't a reason to change them now, as you might not reach their capacity, but I would be thinking about it.

I guess what I am saying is that bending the axles probably won't hurt anything else, so you might as well test them to destruction.

That is a good looking project.

Chris