Front tires for loader

[blacksmith]

I started this loader design a few years back. I checked for a price to purchase one and was not having much luck or the cost was way to high. I started checking on plans that were offered on the web. I liked the P.F. Engineering site. Loader Plans, CAD Plans, Build a Loader, Front End Loader I'm a tool designer by trade and desided to design my own to better fit my tractor. I started by purchading some used cylinders from a junk yard. With the right length of cylinders in hand I started making drawings. I got lucky when I recieved some 4 x 4 x 1/4 and 3 x 3 x 3/16 tubing for FREE. I wanted my design to be practical and look good. I installed bronze bushings in the two moving joints, the uprights and the bottom of the tapered arms. I also have zerk fitting at these locations. I made my own hardeded pins by heat treating alloy steel to match the many lengths I needed. I wanted to have the bucket removalable mainly so I could fit my tractor in my small storage barn built years ago just for my tractor. With the bucket off it left a easy way to design other attachments, a brush hauller with grapple hooks and a pallet forks.

Here are some pictures of my back scraper I made in the early 80's. It will rotate 0,15 & 30 degrees both forward and backward and still cover the area of the tires.

 

[IH3444]

Bunch of guys have done this to their cub cadets. They have an up grade front axle plan, with 1" shafts just for this application. Google search cub cadet, I can't remember the site just now. Ran across it 5 years ago. I agree about going up a size, or even two for the front tires. You may even consider going to 8.5x16 tires, 4 ply. That's a lot of weight now up front, and then there is the load of material. Going to have to have "armstrong" steering for that build. It looks great, and thought through well. Excellent craftsmanship

 

[pegleg]

To the Blacksmith:
I see you are great with the welder and the cad system. Great illustrations and very good ideas. With me it is the time and with a prosthetic leg, getting down to do most of the work is a bit trying on an ole geezer. as I love doing both things. The cad is ok, but the mechanical stuff is a struggle. Good luck with your ideas.

 

[blacksmith]

Here is the finished loader. I still have some minor work like mounting the tubing to the frame and make a guard in front of the pump. I measured 74" from the pivet point to ground when the loader is in the up position. I will now start working on the bucket and a foot control instead of the hand type that is on the tractor now.

 

[crbr]

Nice. I envy your skills.

 

[Pks]

Judging by my experience with my R4 tires versus my Ag tires, I would go with the R4s. If you are lifting around 700lbs often (that's my B2400s capacity), then the R4s will resist the loads better. The Ag tires aren't really made for loading like that and even at full pressure, I've seen mine buldge out during turns. Sometimes they look like they will roll right off the rims. The R4s are much stiffer and don't do that.

I will guess that turf tires would buldge even more.

 

[KentT]

If you don't have power steering, I'd definitely go for narrow tri-ribs. They'll be easier to steer with a load in the bucket...

Been there, done that, with a Simplicity with a loader on it. I switched from 6.50x8 lawn tires to 4.80x8 tri-ribs. Much, much easier to steer...

 

[blacksmith]

Thanks for the replys. I will check out the tri-rib tires since I do not have power steering.

 

[sandman2234]

Since you have upgraded the hydraulic system to handle more than it was designed for, what are the chances of finding a hydraulic steering system off a small commercial lawnmower or something similar? I would think that my Steiner which uses cylinders to steer with would be a possible option, but Steiner parts aren't cheap or plentiful. Adding hydraulic steering, such as the Steiner or even my JD2555 would eliminate some of the upcoming problems and even make it easier to beef up the axle arrangement.
Cutting the axle just above the bend and strengthening it from that point to the outer end would be easy. If properly braced by maybe using two arms to turn it with instead of one and putting a cylinder between them would be an easy way to add hydraulic cylinders and a way to make it do double duty.
As you have been told, you are doing a fantastic job.
David from jax

 

[blacksmith]

I was thinking of upgrading to power steering . I would use a cylinder and a steering valve from some other equipment. I will have to check out my local junk yard for parts. I thought I saw an old forklift or two. Could I use something from a car or truck?