Front wheel drive doesnt work

[Gary Fowler]

I was attempting to pull out a large oak stump using L range and 1st gear with engine at idle. The tires started to spin but then the chain broke so I gave up for the immediate future. I did do some more work with it afterward and it seemed to be working OK. A few days later after some more work on the stump, I tried again and the front wheels aren't spinning but the 4WD light indicates that it is in gear.
I don't know if I twisted off a spline or what. I guess I will have to load it up and take it back to the dealer.
Anyone have a problem with the electronic activation switch not engaging. I suppose it could be an electrical connection since I had later pushed out some small scrub brush while backing in and out. Perhaps a stub disconnected some wiring or something.
Anyone have any idea where the connection is on this switch?

 

[charles todd]

The indicator illuminated means the switch works! :thumbsup: When I engage my P7010C, I can slightly hear and feel "something" around the rear diff. I would check to see if you can detect anything there. I would hope the driveline to the front axle is not so weak that it would be that easy to shear components! :shocked: Keep us P series owners informed on what is found. I'm assuming wiring to the actuator is likely culprit. If so, this is a fear I have as well due to many "brushy" areas around my place!

CT

 

[Gary Fowler]

I crawled under and looked around, didn't see any wires underneath. I think I will just load it up and take to the dealer. It should be under warranty. I will let everyone know what happens, might be a while though.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I got it to the dealer who checked all the electrical stuff while on the trailer. NO sounds or otherwise indications of servo motor working so he unloaded it and said he would have to call the factory warranty rep to see what they thought the problem was. All the servos are inside the cab and I don't know how much trouble it is to get to them. Removing the cab would be a lot more than just removing a few bolts and lifting it off due to all the cable, wires etc connecting stuff to the tractor.
More when I hear from the dealer.

.P.S. Loading it was a bear. I had to remove the water from my tires due to the extra weight which would possibly put me overweight on my 12K trailer so traction on the rear was almost non existent. Setting on level ground, it wouldn't climb the ramps and just spin the tires which finally twisted the ramps off the trailer.
Had to move the trailer below a hill so it was a bit downhill which resulted in me pulling too far forward(too much tongue weight) due to tires sliding on the wooden boards. I had to chain it down then move to level ground, unchain it then back it up about a foot to get right placement. It took me almost an hour to get it loaded, thankfully it was a cool 60F morning so I was just barely wet from sweat when I got it loaded and chained down.

 

[charles todd]

Gary,

Sorry to hear that they have not found the problem. I would still think it is electrical rather than mechanical driveline failure. The servo motors are in the cab? Must be under the seat area. One would think an access panel would be in place to service those items. If not, I'd cut one before pulling the cab!

12k trailer would handle loaded tires. I know I have overloaded my 12k trailer MANY times and it has forgiven me each time. But in Arkansas there are more hills than in North Central Louisiana.

CT

 

[Gary Fowler]

Dealer called and it was a broken front drive shaft. He said it looked like it was sawed in two right behind the splines. Good news is that it is only about a $125 part + about 2 hours labor to fix.

Bad news so far is that LS warranty folks says that it isn't warranted. Since it is external part and not internal part they don't consider it to be part of the powertrain.

I have asked the dealer to have his warranty people call me and talk to me. Before I get on TBN and let all the World know how bad the LS warranty is, I want to give them a chance to make this right.
Since it is obviously a defective part due to over hardening the shaft which made it too brittle and should be covered regardless of how they perceive it.

 

[Winmac]

I'm curious how you were pulling on the stump, from the rear driving forward or reversing and pulling from the front or loader?

 

[holeycow]

I would hope that a tractor would be able to dig itself right down to the belly; wheelie; flip; or stall-out before breaking a driveshaft. Bummer. Maybe it is engineered that way to protect the front diff? The price of that shaft is ridiculous cheap. They should just do it on warranty and give you the benefit of the doubt. I just checked the Kioti warranty. It would be covered if it was a Kioti. I have my reservations about the front shaft on my DK90. It is housed in a pretty small tube.

One of the worst things you can do on any drivetrain is to let it "hop". I avoid that. No hopping allowed!

LS NEEDS to do something for you. How in the h... does that break? Not acceptable....unless you were hopping bad, that is....

 

[arnoldziffel]

In this case what does "hop or hopping" mean please?

 

[Walkin Horse]

Lurching may describe it better. It was lurching forward,hopping over the field.