Front window for mini-x Polycarbonate or Acrylic?

[Rebeldad1]

Need advice on what thickness would be needed for a front safety window on a mini-x
polycarbonate or acrylic roughly 24" wide by 30" tall.
[h=2]Thanks!![/h]

 

[Spiros]

Rebeldad,
I would recommend polycarbonate in this instance. Acrylic sheet is very brittle compared to polycarbonate and the window is all about safety. Now, the corona virus has used up the large majority of plexi (acrylic) and polycarbonate sheets all over the country so good luck finding yours. I'm thinking 3/16" or 1/4" thickness will suffice.

 

[laurencen]

polycarbonate nor acrylic, as stated acrylic is brittle and no good for impact, myself 1/2 inch would be my choice, made a windshield on my UTV and went with 1/2 inch, very solid and rigid, you could use a thinner but price wise if something hit it what are you comfortable with

 

[Diggin It]

Are you adding something to a machine that doesn't have one, or replacing a damaged one?

You might want to look into tempered, laminated glass.

 

[oosik]

The windshield on my BMW is polycarbonate. So far its only had to deflect bugs - does that very well.

 

[Rebeldad1]

have to make a add on to fit the mini-x

 

[Big Barn]

Are you adding something to a machine that doesn't have one, or replacing a damaged one?

You might want to look into tempered, laminated glass.

I would do this^^^^

 

[stingray1]

Are you adding something to a machine that doesn't have one, or replacing a damaged one?

You might want to look into tempered, laminated glass.

I agree with you and Big Barn go with the glass,probably cheaper too.

 

[Big Barn]

I agree with you and Big Barn go with the glass,probably cheaper too.

Also (arguably) better clarity and not prone to scratches.

 

[grsthegreat]

Also (arguably) better clarity and not prone to scratches.

As long as it was designed to have glass installed in the beginning. It needs a method to hold the tempered glass and rubber seal and not touch anything that can damage glass edge.

 

[Big Barn]

As long as it was designed to have glass installed in the beginning. It needs a method to hold the tempered glass and rubber seal and not touch anything that can damage glass edge.

Good point!

 

[Rebeldad1]

Frame is made and going with polycarbonate. Thought about tempered glass but Looked at pretty much all the aftermarket suppliers of add on safety windows and not 1 had safety glass. ALL were polycarbonate

 

[TractorGuy]

3/16" Polycarbonate is what we use on race cars.

I have a piece on the ROPS of my tractor to prevent tree limbs from hitting me if I back into them. Has worked great so far.

 

[Big Barn]

Frame is made and going with polycarbonate. Thought about tempered glass but Looked at pretty much all the aftermarket suppliers of add on safety windows and not 1 had safety glass. ALL were polycarbonate

That is because you would need to go to a glass smith for tempered,laminated or safety glass.

You will be fine with polycarbonate.

 

[Rebeldad1]

Window finished. Used 3/8" polycarbonate. The frame is held in tight at the top and 2 bolts at the bottom. Really easy to remove.
It did create a big problem though. I get a lot of reflection from everywhere and at times can't see what I'm doing. So back to the drawing board.
Next step will be to replace the polycarbonate with a wire mesh so no reflection. Will keep out most rocks and debris.
Luckily the mower is built to keep most flying objects away.

 

[Have tractor did travel]

Rebeldad - pilot houses of ships have the glass tilted out (at the top) up to 30 degrees to contend with the reflection that bothers you. But all is not lost. Read on.
The type of product I might have chosen to secure the polycarbonate is the clamps used to hold the glass panels in a glass shower enclosure. The link provided below is not exactly what I'd choose, but it's close. Any shower door place will have the clamps.
In your situation, look for a way to move what will become the upper clamps, further forward - maybe 15 inches, and a way to tilt the lower clamps to receive the polycarbonate piece.
I would have used laminated glass. I hate looking through scratched up or dirty plastic. If you continue to use your poly, be sure to wash it with lots of water and soap, no ammonia, never wipe dry, and let it sun dry.
I just purchased an open station excavator on which I will use a forestry mulcher. What I've purchased is also linked, (to save others reading who want the quick answer - hard hat, ear muffs, and screened face covering. I thought too hot behind plexi or poly) Item sold under Husqvarna name - they big in commercial chain saws so I though they ought to be able to sell good protective devices) below. Amazon.com: 4 x Large 2.17" Square Glass Clamp for Flat Surface (Stainless Steel 316) by InlineDesign : Tools & Home Improvement

https://www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-59...ds=forestry+face+shield&qid=1631664582&sr=8-3

 

[3Ts]

To deal with your reflections on your polycarbonate window, I'd try a window tinting film. There are various densities and even a mirror film. That should be the cheapest and easiest way to fix reflections.

 

[jjeff]

Also (arguably) better clarity and not prone to scratches.

You can get hard coated poly carbonate pricey but handles scratching much better, if pandemic ever cools off there will be a surplus of polycarbonate sheets new and used.

 

[Paystar]

I'm confused with all the different names. But I recently exploded the windshield out of the Cat 330 GC I run at the mine breaking rocks so I hung a sheet of lexan over the forestry screen now. You can't even tell it's there. It doesn't scratch or discolor from the sun like Plexiglas.

 

[Jims1025R]

Lexan is a brand name for polycarbonate. It is certainly the most safe from a breaking/object impact perspective. But, it will scratch more easily than any other product, and cannot be polished back. Plexiglass will last much longer, and can be polished if needed, though is a less safe choice for heavy machine windshields due to impact risk. Light airplane windshields/windows are generally plexiglass, and I seen 50 year old Cessna windshields which were entirely fine.

If your drilling either polycarbonate, or more so plexiglass, the drill should be specially sharpened to prevent pulling through, and cracking the plexiglass, or jamming in the polycarbonate.

This Youtube video explains: