Frontier RB2308 8' full hydraulic blade on a NX6010

   / Frontier RB2308 8' full hydraulic blade on a NX6010 #11  
Is the Frontier RB2308 (8') too much blade for a NX6010? It has all three hydraulic functions, so I would need a 3rd remote.

I am concerned it's going to be way too much blade for my tractor.

If you have three rear remotes on your NX6010, you do not need to add anything but plug in the blade.
 
   / Frontier RB2308 8' full hydraulic blade on a NX6010 #12  
Looks pretty close. My tires are not loaded (I am on heavy clay, want to minimize turf damage and compaction) so I'll probably be around the same weight as you. I would be using it primarily for dirt, if I can't really take a bite I am not sure what the purpose of such a heavy duty blade would be... for snow and a tiny bit of dirt work it seems like a cheap KK blade would do just fine. :(

Ugh.

You could always buy the KK blade, and then add weight to it when it doesn't have enough to cut in on its own, and then bend it, and then fix it, and then bend it again and junk it, and THEN go buy a blade worth spending the money on :)


Or, you could get a nice heavy blade that you may not be able to use to its fullest ability, but would do everything you want it to do and leave the tractor as the limiting factor rather than the blade.

If I can take more of a bite, I just lower the blade some more, and it digs right in. With a light duty blade, it won't dig right in a lot of the times, it just skips over the ground.

I bought this blade after using a lightweight landpride blade attached to a landscape rake frame. It was useless, even for snow. I couldn't even scrape the snow off the driveway if it was at all icy.

I wouldn't want anything less quite honestly, but then again, I'm a bit overkill when it comes to these things.


In all seriousness though, no, I can't take a big bite of packed soil, but I would rather my tractor weight/traction be the limiting factor, rather than the strength of the blade. You can always fill your bucket with a heavy load of dirt or rocks and put it in 4wd and all of a sudden your tractor is a lot more capable than it was.

My intention was to buy this blade, and cut 6" off each side to make it a 7' blade, but after using it, I don't feel that I need to do that and I actually prefer the extra width.
 
   / Frontier RB2308 8' full hydraulic blade on a NX6010 #13  
As an added note, I can stop my tractor dead in its tracks with my 6.5' box blade if I take too big of a bite as well.

I don't want my earlier comment to scare you into thinking it wouldn't be a good blade for your tractor because that wasn't my intention. I really think you'd be VERY happy with that setup on your more capable tractor than mine.

If you really can buy that blade for 2k then you absolutely should, you'd always get that for it if it doesn't work out (you'll love it).
 
   / Frontier RB2308 8' full hydraulic blade on a NX6010
  • Thread Starter
#14  
It's here. I disconnected the two cylinders until my third remote comes in (or, second second remote :)), when I will install all 3 remotes at once.

It looked positively HUGE when I first walked up to it. It still looks big on the tractor, but it's a lot less crazy looking than I thought. Can't wait to make some drainage ditches with it :)
 

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   / Frontier RB2308 8' full hydraulic blade on a NX6010 #15  
Looks to be a good fit to me. :thumbsup: Action shots requested. :cool:
 
   / Frontier RB2308 8' full hydraulic blade on a NX6010 #16  
That looks great! I think you'll be really happy with it, and you'll find that it works a lot better with your tractor than you thought it would, that's what my experience was anyways. Sometimes I realize the tractor is a lot more "capable" than I realize. :D

I absolutely LOVE having the 3 way hydraulics on it.

I only have 4 rear remotes, but between top N tilt, and the 3 blade remotes, I really would need one more to be able to use all the functions. I tried leaving the blade tilt cylinder disconnected and using the side link to control my tilt, but I find that I like using the blade tilt cylinder a lot more than the side link. So, what I do, is disconnect my side link cylinder hoses, and leave it disconnected, then use the tilt on the blade.

I use the Top link cylinder all the time though.
 
   / Frontier RB2308 8' full hydraulic blade on a NX6010 #17  
That looks great! I think you'll be really happy with it, and you'll find that it works a lot better with your tractor than you thought it would, that's what my experience was anyways. Sometimes I realize the tractor is a lot more "capable" than I realize. :D

I absolutely LOVE having the 3 way hydraulics on it.

I only have 4 rear remotes, but between top N tilt, and the 3 blade remotes, I really would need one more to be able to use all the functions. I tried leaving the blade tilt cylinder disconnected and using the side link to control my tilt, but I find that I like using the blade tilt cylinder a lot more than the side link. So, what I do, is disconnect my side link cylinder hoses, and leave it disconnected, then use the tilt on the blade.

I use the Top link cylinder all the time though.

Just curious, you use the top link a lot with your rear blade while grading, or for movement-transport? And why is it that you prefer to use the tilt on the rear blade vs the side link of the 3pt? :confused: Maybe I need to add the hydraulic tilt to mine and abandon using the side link. The side link has always worked great for me. :confused3:
 
   / Frontier RB2308 8' full hydraulic blade on a NX6010 #18  
Just curious, you use the top link a lot with your rear blade while grading, or for movement-transport? And why is it that you prefer to use the tilt on the rear blade vs the side link of the 3pt? :confused: Maybe I need to add the hydraulic tilt to mine and abandon using the side link. The side link has always worked great for me. :confused3:

Hey Brian,
If the side link works great for you, then don't change a thing!
When I said I prefer to use the tilt cylinder on the blade itself, I was referring to when I use the blade for snow plowing, and I want the blade to follow the contours of the driveway. Using the side link works for this as well, in much the same way really, but the big difference is when I'm plowing it just seems to work "better". I'm always going back and forth, and raising and lowering the blade. When I use the side link in float, each time I raise the blade, I have to take the valve out of float, then raise the blade, then lower the blade, then hit the float again. When I use the tilt cylinder on the blade, I can just leave it in float, and when I raise the 3 point hitch to raise the blade, the blade barely tilts compared to using the sidelink in float. I can re-position before it tilts down under it's own weight. It's really just a matter of convenience (you know, first world problems right? :laughing:) I'm not sure if it's because the weight of the blade is balanced over the pivot point, or maybe the fittings are smaller and it doesn't allow the fluid to pass through as fast, but either way I find it "just works better" for me by using the cylinder on the blade.
I've tried both ways, and for whatever reason, I prefer using the tilt cylinder. I can't say one way really is "better" or not though. :confused3: Does that make any sense? :confused2:


For the top link, I do leave it in float a lot when either grading or plowing. Here is what I do:

I set the skid shoes so that when the 3 point hitch is about mid position, the blade is a small amount off the ground, maybe 1/2" or less, never really measured it, and then with the top link in float, I raise and lower the 3 point hitch to change the "pitch" of the blade. When I lower the 3 point hitch, the blade gets closer to the ground and digs more, when I raise it, the blade comes up a little and starts to let dirt or snow pass under.
It works better this way when transitioning from a slight uphill section to a fairly steep downhill section in my driveway. I also use this a lot when plowing because part of my driveway is dirt, and the other part paved, so when I'm on the pave portion I have it all the way down, scraping the pavement, but when I transition to the dirt, I'll raise it up a bit so as to not dig up the dirt part of the driveway. I also "plow" areas of my yard to give me access to where I store my equipment.


I still want to build a gauge wheel for this blade, but like you said long ago, the skid shoes do work admirably well, better than I thought they would. :thumbsup:
 
   / Frontier RB2308 8' full hydraulic blade on a NX6010 #19  
Ok, thanks for answering, yes I see where when using the float function things would be much better for your working conditions.

I have plowed snow one time in my life. :weepy:
 
   / Frontier RB2308 8' full hydraulic blade on a NX6010 #20  
Do you have decals instead of tail lights?
 
 

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