Just curious, you use the top link a lot with your rear blade while grading, or for movement-transport? And why is it that you prefer to use the tilt on the rear blade vs the side link of the 3pt?

Maybe I need to add the hydraulic tilt to mine and abandon using the side link.
The side link has always worked great for me. :confused3:
Hey Brian,
If the side link works great for you, then don't change a thing!
When I said I prefer to use the tilt cylinder on the blade itself, I was referring to when I use the blade for snow plowing, and I want the blade to follow the contours of the driveway. Using the side link works for this as well, in much the same way really, but the big difference is when I'm plowing it just seems to work "better". I'm always going back and forth, and raising and lowering the blade. When I use the side link in float, each time I raise the blade, I have to take the valve out of float, then raise the blade, then lower the blade, then hit the float again. When I use the tilt cylinder on the blade, I can just leave it in float, and when I raise the 3 point hitch to raise the blade, the blade barely tilts compared to using the sidelink in float. I can re-position before it tilts down under it's own weight. It's really just a matter of convenience (you know, first world problems right? :laughing

I'm not sure if it's because the weight of the blade is balanced over the pivot point, or maybe the fittings are smaller and it doesn't allow the fluid to pass through as fast, but either way I find it "just works better"
for me by using the cylinder on the blade.
I've tried both ways, and for whatever reason, I prefer using the tilt cylinder. I can't say one way really is "better" or not though. :confused3: Does that make any sense? :confused2:
For the top link, I do leave it in float a lot when either grading or plowing. Here is what I do:
I set the skid shoes so that when the 3 point hitch is about mid position, the blade is a small amount off the ground, maybe 1/2" or less, never really measured it, and then with the top link in float, I raise and lower the 3 point hitch to change the "pitch" of the blade. When I lower the 3 point hitch, the blade gets closer to the ground and digs more, when I raise it, the blade comes up a little and starts to let dirt or snow pass under.
It works better this way when transitioning from a slight uphill section to a fairly steep downhill section in my driveway. I also use this a lot when plowing because part of my driveway is dirt, and the other part paved, so when I'm on the pave portion I have it all the way down, scraping the pavement, but when I transition to the dirt, I'll raise it up a bit so as to not dig up the dirt part of the driveway. I also "plow" areas of my yard to give me access to where I store my equipment.
I still want to build a gauge wheel for this blade, but like you said long ago, the skid shoes do work admirably well, better than I thought they would. :thumbsup: