Frozen loader valve
- Thread starter burk1953
- Start date
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My loader valve has been doing the same for four years and I put a heat lamp near by for 15-20 minutes. Can anyone post a picture what part needs to be cleaned and lubed? I don't know what part is a the valve bonnet cover. Thanks
This doesn't have cables thankfully. I will take the valve off tomorrow and see what I find and also check the oil as JJ suggested. The oil was new this summer and the oil I removed looked good but I don't want to do this again. They are saying below 0 on Tuesday. I will make this part of the fall maintenance but it doesn't have a problem when it's warm LOL. And I have a good hydraulic shop close by if I mess up.
The older I get the more I think about moving south.
The older I get the more I think about moving south.
J_J
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2003
- Messages
- 18,952
- Location
- JACKSONVILLE, FL
- Tractor
- Power-Trac 1445, KUBOTA B-9200HST
On the bottom of the valve there are two small covers that protect the ends of the spool and contain the float and spool centering assembly. Usually have two screws each holding them on..
2 SPOOL COMPACT 10 GPM JOYSTICK CONTROL VALVE
There are two silver can/covers on the bottom of the valve.
Thanks for the help JJ. I went to take a picture of my loader valve as it looks quite different from the one you posted. Are these the parts that I need to take out and clean/lube? Also. If I take these parts off, are there a bunch of small parts that will be lunched into outer space by a spring or it will be simple (I hope I picked the appropriate color for the arrows
) It is unfortunate that I know nothing about this. Thanks for the help.
?
) It is unfortunate that I know nothing about this. Thanks for the help.?
J_J
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2003
- Messages
- 18,952
- Location
- JACKSONVILLE, FL
- Tractor
- Power-Trac 1445, KUBOTA B-9200HST
It would be best if you had a manual for that valve so if anything did spring out, you could re-install.
There are springs and little steel balls inside the cans.
If you break it sown, have a bowl under the valve to catch any parts that may spring or fall out.
Inspect it, clean if needed, and lube everything.
There are springs and little steel balls inside the cans.
If you break it sown, have a bowl under the valve to catch any parts that may spring or fall out.
Inspect it, clean if needed, and lube everything.
art
Super Member
You do not need to remove the valve!!!! On the bottom of the valves are two covers that protect the valve from weather and they tend to get moisture build up in them from the changing seasons. When removing the covers which normally is with allen wrenches sometimes the balls and spring get out of place and you might loose them while taking them apart! We put grease in them to the point of being about 1/3 full. Filling this cavity has been the best solution we have found. We tried small holes in the bottom but it does not work as well as the grease.
An other problem with the joysticks and the remote cables is that between the hot and cold of the cab the cables will get condensation in them and freeze as well! When this happens if the cables are not rusty we again dismantle and coat with grease before installation. When the valve bodies are located below the lowest part of the cable some issues with the cables go away with their ability to drain. Newer tractors are coming thru with the valves mounted lower so the problem with the cables has not been as prevalent.
An other problem with the joysticks and the remote cables is that between the hot and cold of the cab the cables will get condensation in them and freeze as well! When this happens if the cables are not rusty we again dismantle and coat with grease before installation. When the valve bodies are located below the lowest part of the cable some issues with the cables go away with their ability to drain. Newer tractors are coming thru with the valves mounted lower so the problem with the cables has not been as prevalent.
