Frustrated with Jinma 354 Start Problem
Bob Rooks
Elite Member
I would open it up anyway, at least to see if it has thrown any solder, or is frozen. Might save yourself a trip.
I had the starter tested. Advance Auto's tester did not have a setting for the Jinma starter, so they used a GM starter spec. The starter turned, but the machine listed it as bad (amp draw issue). I think it was marked bad because the GM current draw spec was not exactly as the same as the Jinma. Still, the important part is that the starter did turn. I installed it back into the tractor, and received just a couple clicks before it went totally silent. I had tested the battery two weeks ago, but to be sure it was delivering sufficient current, I tried jumping from my truck. Same result, no sound at all. I would still suspect an electrical issue, since the starter turned at the store, but I get nothing when jumping directly across the solenoid. At this point, I'm suspecting it's a battery issue, but again it tested good on a 950 cold cranking amp load test.
I really welcome any ideas about what might be causing the dead starter issue?
I really welcome any ideas about what might be causing the dead starter issue?
jacques54
Bronze Member
You can directly jump start with booster cable from another known battery to the big selenoide battery post (red lead) and directly ground to one engine bolt paint removed (black lead). Then take an old screwdriver between the small selenoide therminal and the red lead. Be sure you are in neutral. I have done it several time at job in -20° c and lower with a Revolt booster connected to four 8D battery.
Doing this you are bypassing all the tractor electrical system and must crank the engine.
Jacques
Doing this you are bypassing all the tractor electrical system and must crank the engine.
Jacques
Bob Rooks
Elite Member
These starters could be expected to have a higher amperage draw because they are for diesel engines with higher compression ratios. Double check all your battery connections, make sure there is no rust, corrosion, or paint on the grounds.
cleat
Silver Member
And the cables themselves. I have owned cars that would not crank over and the battery cables were crumbling apart under the insulation.
erj
Gold Member
I don't understand the reluctance to open the starter up to look inside, look at brushes, etc. as Bob Rook suggested. Just because the starter turned does not mean that it is OK.
The gold star goes to Bob Rooks. I opened the starter (mostly) and a small 3/16" ball bearing rolled out. I did not fully dissemble the starter since one of the two short screws in the end cap was striped (I'm guessing from the factory). Nonetheless, I pulled it apart and reassembled everything. Then I connected the starter directly to the batter and it spun. Encouraged, I put the solenoid on and installed the starter in the tractor. It turned right over. Unfortunately, something happened that has never happened before, the tractor started and died after about 3 seconds. Never had any trouble keeping the engine running before. Anyway, messed around trying to keep it running. After about 10 cranks, the starter went dead again.
Guess I'll be replacing the starter and then diagnosing why all of a sudden the dang thing wont stay running.
The pain, frustration, and expense continues.
Guess I'll be replacing the starter and then diagnosing why all of a sudden the dang thing wont stay running.
The pain, frustration, and expense continues.
Bob Rooks
Elite Member
If it's been sitting for awhile, check the air cleaner for critters. Also check the fuel filter and all the screens, including the ones in the sediment bowl and the fuel tank. Prime and bleed the fuel system. Of course the fuel was turned on . A possibility exists of critters (diesel bugs) in your fuel system too.
. A possibility exists of critters (diesel bugs) in your fuel system too.