First I want to thank everyone for all the excellent help and info. The voltage drop from the keyswitch to the starter solenoid was driving me nuts.
It had a 0.2 ohm drop across the entire line, (.2 is actually the drop across the ohm meter leads, meaning there was practically no resistance) including the safety switches. There was no short to ground, and I had jumpered out the switches to test. When I disconnected from the solenoid, full battery voltage existed when the key was turned to start , so thats why I suspected a bad solenoid.
Because the starter worked everytime when the solenoid was crossed with the main positive, the possibility existed that the solenoid was drawing too much amperage for the tractor wire since it had previously worked fine. All of the tractor wiring is encased in protective corregated plastic sheathing, so wearing against the frame somewhere was also ruled out.
So here is what I finally did. Since pulling half the tractor apart to get to the wiring was not on my agenda, I went with the relay option. I measured the amperage draw for the solenoid (5.63amps) and went to Radio Shack. Bought a $6.79 30amp SPST 12volt relay and used it to directly power the starter, using the old tractor wiring to power the coil. It works like a charm every time!
Thanks again everybody. While I thought I did a thorough analysis, you folks came up with some other pretty savvy suggestions. God bless the folks on Tractorbynet!
Gotta go, Lady Kubota is calling! Says she's rarin to go!
It had a 0.2 ohm drop across the entire line, (.2 is actually the drop across the ohm meter leads, meaning there was practically no resistance) including the safety switches. There was no short to ground, and I had jumpered out the switches to test. When I disconnected from the solenoid, full battery voltage existed when the key was turned to start , so thats why I suspected a bad solenoid.
Because the starter worked everytime when the solenoid was crossed with the main positive, the possibility existed that the solenoid was drawing too much amperage for the tractor wire since it had previously worked fine. All of the tractor wiring is encased in protective corregated plastic sheathing, so wearing against the frame somewhere was also ruled out.
So here is what I finally did. Since pulling half the tractor apart to get to the wiring was not on my agenda, I went with the relay option. I measured the amperage draw for the solenoid (5.63amps) and went to Radio Shack. Bought a $6.79 30amp SPST 12volt relay and used it to directly power the starter, using the old tractor wiring to power the coil. It works like a charm every time!
Thanks again everybody. While I thought I did a thorough analysis, you folks came up with some other pretty savvy suggestions. God bless the folks on Tractorbynet!
Gotta go, Lady Kubota is calling! Says she's rarin to go!