Frustrations

[RegL]

Today I finally got around to working at changing out that leaky wheel motor. I bought the new one last Fall but the old one wasn't leaking that bad so it was one of those around to it jobs. I've got a little glitch. Got the wheel off and hoses disconnected but that wheel flange is being real stubborn. I tried all the tricks I have used in the past to no avail. I put a nut on flush with the end of the shaft and hammered it with a sledge no less and it didn't budge. Tried driving steel wedge between the flange and the motor housing, notta!. I even went to the auto parts store and bought a $64 puller, waste of money. Only thing I did not try was heat. I would really have to clean up the hydraulic fluid before I put a torch to it. I finally sprayed it good with WD and I'll try it again tomorrow. If anyone has some good tips, I'm all ears. And by the way. If anyone was going to suggest c4, I don't have any.

 

[DieselPower]

Could you post a picture of the stuck wheel motor? If I can see it, it might help get my mind jump started on some ideas for you.

 

[DonStillwagon]

Wheel flanges can be stubborn. Use a wheel puller (for removing brake drums) - the old one I have has three legs that have a hole for slipping over studs and locking on with a nut (or a bolt if the flange has threaded holes). Mine has a cross bar that you hit with a hammer to turn the screw and really put some tension on the hub. Just let it sit for a bit, and rap the end of the puller screw with a small hammer smartly - a quick sharp whack is MUCH better than brute force here! If a couple of whacks does not do it, then use a propane torch to warm the hub (had to do that one one of mine).

Hitting the shaft with a sledge probably turns the motor into junk - it is fairly easy to replace seals and o-rings and stop the leaks if you have no mechanical issues. I have fixed several of the motors on my 1430 before going to bigger motors with pressure reliefs.

Good luck!

Don

 

[RegL]

Could you post a picture of the stuck wheel motor? If I can see it, it might help get my mind jump started on some ideas for you.

Thanks. I'll get a shot tomorrow. The flange I'm talking about is what the wheel and tire bolt to. It's mounted onto the tapered shaft of the motor. Their sometimes stuck on pretty good but usually can be jarred off. This one just wants to give me a hard time.

 

[MossRoad]

Pick up some PB Blaster at the auto parts store. I've had better luck with that then WD40 for loosening up stuck things.

 

[woodlandfarms]

Not sure that it applies on this, but you guys saw the notes on using wax as a bolt loosener? Apparently works better than anything else you can buy?

I can find the thread if needed...

Carl

 

[MossRoad]

Yeah, I read that, too.

 

[duane]

RegL,

There was a thread a couple of years ago where a guy named Dave was replacing one of his wheel motors on an old 400 series PT. He had a couple of tricks and techniques. I remember he said it was hard going. A small amount of corrosion on the taper fit between the wheel flange and shaft creates a tight grip. I have had good luck with PB Blaster and pullers.

 

[RegL]

Thanks everyone. I forgot about PB Blaster. I just may have an old can of that around here somewhere. I'll get that thing off somehow cause I've got to have the tractor back working by Tuesday. I'm trying not to destroy the old motor because I was going to get new seals put in and keep it for a spare. If it gets me to mad however, I may just have to bring out a bigger hammer, lol.

 

[KentT]

Reg, if you haven't tried it, I suggest you go rent a hub puller at an autoparts store. I know it's not a tool that I have sitting around, but you can rent one for just a few bucks...