Neal 5520:
I'd advise against buying a cluster unless you test first and determine it has failed.
Just my thoughts: So you tried moving the float on (what I assume would be) the new sender while it was out of the tank and plugged in and you were watching the gauge? How about testing the wires at the gauge while doing the same test? Meaning, instead of using the gauge as a readout, use an DVOM and you should see the Ohms move up and down as the float is moved. This will tell you if the problem is in the gauge or if it's a problem in the wiring from the gauge to the sender. Personally, I like to test 1/2 way between the gauge and the sender, so I know which direction to move for the next test (towards the gauge or towards the sender) to look for the issue.
Also, since I read this sender works from 4.5 to 97.5 Ohms, I'd suggest a modification to JD5210's test idea. You could buy a very cheap resistor of around 51 Ohms. Use this with a jumper between the gauge leads for fuel level at the gauge (and with the sender disconnected), as the sender is merely a variable resistor. If you jumper it, and the gauge reads around 1/2 full, then the gauge is not the problem and you know you need to look to the wiring to/from the gauge & to/from the sender. You could also check and report back on the voltage available at the sender, and if any of the wiring has continuity to ground.
I'd advise against buying a cluster unless you test first and determine it has failed.
Just my thoughts: So you tried moving the float on (what I assume would be) the new sender while it was out of the tank and plugged in and you were watching the gauge? How about testing the wires at the gauge while doing the same test? Meaning, instead of using the gauge as a readout, use an DVOM and you should see the Ohms move up and down as the float is moved. This will tell you if the problem is in the gauge or if it's a problem in the wiring from the gauge to the sender. Personally, I like to test 1/2 way between the gauge and the sender, so I know which direction to move for the next test (towards the gauge or towards the sender) to look for the issue.
Also, since I read this sender works from 4.5 to 97.5 Ohms, I'd suggest a modification to JD5210's test idea. You could buy a very cheap resistor of around 51 Ohms. Use this with a jumper between the gauge leads for fuel level at the gauge (and with the sender disconnected), as the sender is merely a variable resistor. If you jumper it, and the gauge reads around 1/2 full, then the gauge is not the problem and you know you need to look to the wiring to/from the gauge & to/from the sender. You could also check and report back on the voltage available at the sender, and if any of the wiring has continuity to ground.