Fuel line leaking at fitting

[radios1]

The line looks not to be straight up and down or is that the camera angle? It has to be straight.

A good wrench turner cam make steel fuel lines ☺

it does appear that the adapter going into the pump has been cross threaded.. the lines are stainless steel, notice no rust, and the color looks like stainless steel, and those nuts might be special, so it's not a job for just anyone, unlike for a car..

 

[Clint S]

Sometimes the flare gets buggered up. I would re make the line. In a pinch I have bought premade lines and just bent the last foot or so and cut and spiced with a compression fitting

 

[YakkinEer913]

I've tried 2 lines, leaking the same way at the same point. I assume it's something with the fitting where the line goes in. Not properly seating...

 

[YakkinEer913]

Sometimes the flare gets buggered up. I would re make the line. In a pinch I have bought premade lines and just bent the last foot or so and cut and spiced with a compression fitting

Can I sand it some to re groove it

 

[YakkinEer913]

it does appear that the adapter going into the pump has been cross threaded.. the lines are stainless steel, notice no rust, and the color looks like stainless steel, and those nuts might be special, so it's not a job for just anyone, unlike for a car..

No, it actually went in fairly easy. I've taken this line off and reinstalled it, about 30 times in the last month... All without forcing anything.

 

[Clint S]

So chances are that fitting unscrews from there and you can take it out and get a new one from a hydro shop

 

[thepumpguysc]

Snap a pic of the other end of the line so some of these people get an idea of what your working with..PLEASE..
You CANT just run to a hydo shop & get this line.. its MALE on 1 end & female on the other.
AND you CANT get the PUMP PART from there either.. IF u know anyone at a JD Dealer they prob. have abunch of those pump laying around & would be willing the sell u the connector{ DELIVERY VALVE HOLDER} on the pump??
OR someone at a fuel shop.. I KNOW they have'm..
When calling around, its very helpful to know the terminology of the part your looking for..
Your looking for a> "Delivery Valve Holder for a 2 cyl. Yanmar PFR pump off a JD 650" {That's fuel shop speak}
Now if your calling JD, your looking for > The part on top of the injector pump.. the piece the injector line screws on to.. for a JD 650
The DV Holder gets TORQUED to 30-35FTLBS.. VERY IMPORTANT.!!!
Be VERY careful when taking the connector out.. theres a spring, oring & copper del, vlv. gasket, under it.
Are you SURE its the line that leaking or is the holder leaking, where it screws into the housing.{oring & copper gasket}

 

[TractorGuy]

If I looked up the right part JD calls the fitting the line screws into a CH10474 Holder. 650 had two and the 750 had three. Part is showing no longer available so you can call a dealer and have them put that number out on an old stock locator to see if anyone has one.

John Deere - Parts Catalog

 

[truckdiagnostics]

That engine looks like it uses nozzles. So, that is a high pressure line going from the pump to the nozzle. Runs pressure up to 2,000 psi some are higher. New engines much higher. If it is in fact the high pressure line the are special big time! All the lines on every cylinder has to be the same length that is why you see them going down and back together a lot of times. There is no o rings or gasket sealing the line. It is metal to metal. Most of the time they will crack right where the nut meets the flare. Those lines vibrate a lot. With that said you are stuck looking for a new line.

 

[oldtimer 66]

Years ago i remember brazing a fitting on a fuel line. I was an Allis Chalmers, You may need to do the same. This fitting on the end of the line is a flush fit to it's counter part. There is a shallow c'bore that aligns the 2 fittings. Somebody else has already described this connection. The fitting it's self is c'bored to accept the line and the line fits inside the c'bore. You need to heat / and remove the line and cut the line to remove the crack and or re-braze as is, probably your best fix, but you will need to re-drill the end of the line where you re-braze. That's my best guess. Later