Fuel Pump gone dead

[Gregster613]

Hi all,
I've been reading about different problems that each has had and had been feeling fortunate that nothing much bad has happened to me....Well, it's now my turn!!

Saturday I'd been working the tractor off and on all day; trimming trees, hauling the brush accumulated off, etc., etc. and just as I'm backing it up into the garage to put away - it starts running rough and very irregular, RPM's drop and then go back up, then drop down again, I barely managed to coax her back into the garage before it quits running completely. I'm immediately thinking "Why did I wait so long to change the fuel filter?", Yes, I'm way beyond hours due for that change. I've always gotten good fuel and it ran just fine - so what's the urgent need I think.

Anyhow, that's the first thing I do is change to a new filter. But, no change in performance whatsoever. I start doing a search on here for similar problems and see TYMinColton's saga about his problems/change out of the fuel filter. I start remembering that I don't always hear my fuel pump click like it "usually" does when being started. Yep, it's completely dead in the electrical department. At least I think so; I spent a bunch of time cleaning up connections, etc., etc. and tried to test with a voltmeter but I got zero juice or continuity through it.

So I ordered a new one off of Amazon - FCBB universal 12v 3-5 PSI low pressure gas/diesel fuel pump, $24.99 shipping included. It should be here on Friday the 22nd. So on Saturday I'll bolt it up and see if my guess was right. I like that price far better than $135.00 before shipping from a TYM dealer!!

I also want to buy a spare relay that mounts up by my positive battery post. I don't know the actual name for it and my part number comes up as not found anywhere? I "think" it's the glow plug relay but am not sure... Part # off my current relay = [V23134-J1052-D642, 12v - + 0552] that's info copied right off the relay. I don't understand relays or how they really work and am unsure that mine is bad as being in Ca I don't have problems with cold weather interfering with start ups; my glow plug light on the dash works, my lights all work, so its probably okay but I'd like to have a spare on hand anyhow. So, if anyone out there understands about this relay, could you share with me any trivia per relays? It has (2) slim posts with numbers 85 and 86 underneath them and (2) fat posts, (1) with #87 beneath and (1) with #30 beneath. Do I need to be looking for a relay with exact same #ing or what? I'm a novice with this electrical stuff, so could use a bit of advice.

Thanks all, I'll update as soon as my fuel pump arrives, gets installed and "Hopefully" works. Take care, Greg

 

[katoomed00]

85&86 energize the relay when you turn the key on, should be a Normally Open relay, so 87 and 30 connect when energize and allow current to go to fuel pump. Youtube it to see how to check it, pretty simple.
The whole fuel pump system is straight forward, Tank to fuel pump through filters then injector pump, at least that how it in on my T503.

You can always hook the 2 wires to the battery and see if it runs and pumps, and go from there

 

[Gregster613]

Hi Katoomed00,
Thanks for the advice on relays and directions to the you tube display. That showed me a lot on how to test/determine serviceability of a relay. Now I have a fair understanding of the little guys function in the overall scheme of the electrical pathway.
Appreciate it. Greg

 

[Gregster613]

Update - - Success!! New pump came yesterday, I promptly began to install it and it's a near-perfect plug and play item! I only needed to slightly bend in the edges so the bolt holes would line up exactly (approx 1/8" to 3/16") and the plug end was an exact match. Man was I happy to discover this pump!!
I also learned [re-learned] something that I need to remember in the future...the fuel pump does (and is supposed to) make the clicking sound all the time. I never payed much attention to this fact before. I'd hear it as I turned my key to the left position (glow plug ignition) but if you turn the key to the on position - not start, just run - the fuel pump begins to click as it's pumping fuel. If I ever notice it becoming intermittent in clicking again I'll look at the pump and make sure it's working correctly. For $25.00 I can keep a spare pump on hand as a spare. Heck the pump cost me less that I pay for an air filter and I really need to change them on a yearly basis as I am in a quite dusty climate.
Anyhow, for anyone interested the pump I listed above is a near perfect replacement for TYM 273 and probably the 233 and 293 also.
Thanks and Happy tractorin' to all. Greg

 

[Gregster613]

Update to thread. I need to take back my hearty recommendation for this pump!

Went to my garage this morning and saw a large wet spot on the floor under tractor. "What the heck!" I think. Open the hood and look over everything and it's my new pump dripping from the output end. Not any hose connections mind you, but from the internal guts of the pump body! There is a piece that has 3 screws bolting it onto the main body and that;'s where the leak is coming from. It's probably an o-ring inside that is bad; but it's not what I paid for!! And I don't believe that I should have to dismantle and try to repair a brand new part.

I sent an e-mail with my complaint back to Amazon, (just prior to posting this) so I've yet to see whether or not any resolution will be offered. If so or if not, I will inform all in TBN so that if anyone chooses to try this pump they will know in advance of any problems with it. Greg

 

[Gregster613]

Update to Update....I have received no response to my email stating pump leaked and I was unhappy; sooooo I decided since I own it I'll take it apart and see if I learn anything. It turns out to be a quite simple device. The only end I could take apart was the discharge end. It was held on by 3 tiny screws and nuts. Yes - I managed to drop 1 of the tiny nuts on the floor and it took much longer to find that darn nut than to take apart - see the single plunger with several springs - and the 2 different sized o-rings that (I guess) are supposed to stop any leaks - change the o-rings with my own, and reassemble the unit. With bated breath I put all back on the tractor, ran it in the garage for quite some time looking for leaks. Viola, none appeared! I then took it out in the yard for some clean-up duties, ran it fairly hard for approx 2 - 3 hours and as of this morning no leaks have re-appeared!

I could see absolutely nothing wrong with the old o-rings, and maybe it was just taking apart and re-assembling that fixed it, but I did replace the o-rings and the leak has seemed to go away. That suits me just fine so far. I did go ahead previously and ordered another [different brand] of pump so I'll now at least have a spare on the shelf if this problem again rears its ugly head. But, I might not have needed to. Oh well. Greg

 

[Bud Soda]

I replaced my pump with one I got at my local Auto Zone. Cost $40 + Had a lifetime warranty. Had been on the tractor a few years when I sold it.

 

[Gregster613]

Thanks for the info Bud. If I have any future problems I'll probably go that route. I've yet to see if it leaks again or not. Keeping my fingers crossed.
Greg