Oil & Fuel Fuel question from new 2210 owner

djsch · Nov 13, 2003

I just got my new 2210 about 5 hours ago (Tiller, Snowblower, FEL, & MMM). I live in east central SD (think Minneapolis if you don't know where South Dakota is.) /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I'm wondering what fuel to use, #1 or #2? The dealer said he thought #1 but it looks like a lot of folks are using #2? I'm also wondering if fuel additives are required. It looks like a lot of folks use them... If additives are necessary, what's best and how much, etc, and do I need it year around or just in cold weather? The storage temp for the machine is usually above freezing but it will need to operate in -25F weather when I'm plowing snow. In the winter, it basically will sit unused between snowstorms and that can be as long as 6 weeks or so without running. (I assume these are all factors in the answers to my questions.)

Can anyone help or should I have posted to another thread?

Dave

fgross335_2210 · Nov 13, 2003

From my 2210 owner's manual "Use Grade 1D for cold air or Grade 2D for warm air" which is pretty much SOP for Diesels. See page 54 "Service Miscellaneous".

I just put in the last of my #2 and also added Standadyne All-season DFA to avoid any gelling (tractor will be sitting from now until the snow flies.) Also the manual suggests fuel stabilizer so Sta-bil went in the tank as well.

I am going to wait until Dec to purchase any more fuel to make sure I have a winter blend. I'm confident the Standadyne will get me going when the weather is cold and the Sta-bil should ensure good starts............I'll let you know how it turned out in the spring.

NIXON · Nov 13, 2003

Fred pretty much covered the additives. the petroleum companies blend fuel to suit the weather and temp conditions . so buying the right fuel will be a "no brainer "
Now for the real tough part ... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Would you be from Watertown ?? Maybe Clark ?? John

Hambone · Nov 14, 2003

Congrats on the new tractor and welcome to the forum!
-25 degrees makes me cold already!

I got to thinking about that for a little bit. Be sure to keep the water out of the seperator bowl. That thing is out in the open, if your tractor is going to gell up that would be the place.
The fuel tank is under the hood, so it should get some heat off the engine, since you are starting out above those temps.

I would probably wrap that filter housing with some foam. Seems to work on trucks anyway.

djsch · Nov 14, 2003

Thanks for the info. I guess I'm not very happy about having to do all the additive stuff but if that's what's needed to keep it in top shape... I thought I had checked the manual pretty carefully. I'll have to look at it again when I get home tonight.

Dave

Bob_In_MN · Nov 14, 2003

Hey Neighbor (almost)

Does your dealer install block heaters as part of the set-up process? If not, you may want to get one installed. It really helps on the start up. We have similar winter uses--I only use mine when there's enough snow fall. Plug it in the night before you think you'll get some serious snow and it'll be ready the next a.m.

Good Luck and have fun.

Bob

djsch · Nov 14, 2003

Hey (almost) neighbor!

Yes, I'm getting a block heater. I don't really think I need it but thought it might be good for resale. However, they delivered the tractor without it because something was missing so I'll get it "later". Tonight I fired it up to do the heavy task of hauling leaves /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif and it was a little hard starting even at 40 something. I read a trick somewhere else on this group that if you pull the PTO switch and hit start that the glow plugs come on but the starter doesn't. I don't know if there's anything to it but I tried holding the switch in "Start" for about 15 seconds with the PTO on then turned the PTO back off and it fired right up. I think I'll use that trick again.

cbh · Nov 14, 2003

The PTO switch trick works, or you can put the tractor in gear while holding the key switch in the start position, that works too. If you put a volt meter on the glow plug bus bar on top of the engine while doing this, you will see that the glow plugs are powered.

djsch · Nov 14, 2003

Thanks for configming the trick. Any suggestions as to how long to let the glow plugs work before actually cranking? I did it for about 15 seconds and it worked great at 40 degrees. I suppose the colder the longer ... Any thoughts?

Dave