Canopy G3038H ROPS/FOPS and fiberglass canopy on top

flingwing1969 · Mar 11, 2018

Here is how those brackets will work. Each FEL tower will have one 1/4" plate bracket welded onto each side of it and the two brackets on each tower will be welded together at the back with a piece of plate, just like the tower is.

This is what the top looks like that will become my canopy - too good to throw away and too worthless to keep just for keeping's sake.

This is kind of what it will look like when it's on. The 2x2's acting as front supports are shorter than the 2x3 steel a-pillars that will eventually be there fitted between the brackets on each side with one or two grade 8 bolts. Like on the Kubota shown here as well. The canopy's angle will be less forward leaning and the back "legs" that attached to the boat will be trimmed off.

flingwing1969 · Apr 3, 2018

Okay, I've been doing some thinking (painful) and trying to do this project as inexpensively as I can. I happen to have sever 10' lengths of Superstrut that was originally intended for a ground mount solar add on on my ranch, which has since been sold. I'm going to use this for the A-pillars on my FOPS. I like it for various reasons, including the ease of adding things to the struts like lights, cup holders, tool boxes, etc.

Anyway, I've been considering where to mount the A-pillars and the best spot I can imagine is the tractor mount for the FEL. Sadly, LS decided to mount their oh-so-handy FEL controls on the right one and it is in my way. I had a plan for mounting the FOPS posts on the FEL tower with bolts secured to a bracket like on the B21 Kubota, but don't like the idea of having to remove the FOPS if I ever wanted to remove the FEL.

So I thought I'd weld threaded studs on the 1" plate that makes up the tractor side FEL bracket but that would give me a ridge so the Superstrut would not mount flush to the end of the plate. Then I thought, heck, I'll drill and tap three places on each side and bolt the struts on with grade 8s. Problem, the FEL controls are in the way.

Although it is not optimum, I have been fiddling with the concept of moving the FEL control mounting bracket to the FEL tower, moving it inboard about two inches to clear all of it and then freeing up the right hand 1" plate for drilling and tapping. Here is the plan"

I'll probably install a plate across it to mount the control mount to. If I have to remove the FEL (not in the cards actually) I will be able to unbolt the valve mounting plate via two bolts, disconnect the quick connects from the valve and remove the FEL - just two bolts to remove more than would now be required.

Doing this will move the joystick just short of 2" forward and about 1 1/2 inboard but that clears everything. Also, there is plenty of hose slack to make this happen. The current mounting plate is attached to the 1" plate with only two welds so easy to grind off and then weld it to its new home. I think that moving it will be unlikely to adversely affect access to the joystick and will likely make it easier to get onto and off of the tractor via the right side - might be a real plus.

Thought? Anyone else move the loader controls other to the sensible position on the right fender (have to buy new hoses and move other stuff too)?

I think this will be a better plan than my previous one;.

flingwing1969 · Apr 3, 2018

This FOPS is not as heavy duty as some but it will certainly provide good protection. It is modular - one can remove the canopy from the FOPS frame and the FOPS frame from the A-Pillars and ROPS, and leave the A-Pillars in place - along with the cup holder and side view mirrors I'll be mounting there. No single piece will weigh more than maybe 45 pounds.

There will be a cross member between the two A-pillars, just above the dash, that will permit the installation of a storage shelf like I had on my B21 (prior photos), if I would like to have one.