garden tilling

   / garden tilling #11  
Might also want to hit that 3/4 acre with some roundup first. It'll cut down on the weeds later and make it easier to plow/till.

Something i tried this last year for weed control was hay. You could use old hay but the guy in town did not have any so i just bought a new bale for $10-$20 cant remember how much. He delivered it as he lives about 300 yards away. I only used about 1/3 of the bale, and put a tarp over the top for this year. Anyway i tilled up a garden that had yard grass in it and was the first time busting half of it up. I used roundup on it, kind of, i think it was old or weak cause it killed very little,and i had to till it when i borrowed the tiller so i did. Most all the grass was still green. Anyway i spread the hay in the rows as deep as you would multch, i have a lush green carpet of crab grass coming up already. The hay blocked the light but still let moisture in and also kept it in much longer than without. I only pulled some resistant bermuda every few days, and im talking like 1-2 sprigs each time not 30 mins worth of pulling. Now i have pulled and piled all residue and 70% of the hay is rotted and the rest will just be tilled under with the few weeds that are out there now.
 
   / garden tilling #12  
I used to have a 1510 and the rs1200 came with it ,when I got a 1610d I kept the tiller and converted it for 3pt.It works great for all my gardening needs.For mulch I use bark that I run through my chipper. russ
 
   / garden tilling
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Thanks everyone!
 
   / garden tilling #14  
Lancem, I don't know where Martin is, but I am in Palmetto and have a 1610d with an RS1200 Yanmar Tiller. I bought it for about $650 from Spalding Tractors in Griffin. It has new tines, fresh oil, paint and works flawlessly. They are very good people and have a nice selection of first rate Yanmar grey market tractors and implements

Stan Henley
 
   / garden tilling #15  
stan,did you have to convert your 1200 to make it work for 3pt.? russ
 
   / garden tilling #16  
Nothing against spalding or any others but $650 for a reworked 30 yr old tiller seems high to me. I mean its still 30 yrs old and from what Aaron at Hoyse said himself, there are no OE tines still availible and all that is able to be had is cheaper not as tough replacements that are not hardened, so they wear faster. I dont have one so i have not seen one in action but id have a hard time paying similar prices for a used tiller like this when i can get an american one that still has oe tines made for it. Just my opinion though.
 
   / garden tilling #17  
Thats a Good Fair price Henhouse1. IMO I gave 675.00 for my RS1400 at Fredricks while getting parts. Never had any problems with the Tiller with the wrong Dr. shaft. that was corrected thats about it. Tines were new no sign of any Wear yet. 3yrs old to me same condition as the day I bought it. Won't be long and it'll be about that time to pull it out again;)

Carey
 
   / garden tilling #18  
like i said i have no experience with them. I respect your opinion and not trying to get into an argument here, maybe if i had one id think different. But i am going on what aaron said about tines.
 
   / garden tilling #19  
there are no OE tines still availible and all that is able to be had is cheaper not as tough replacements that are not hardened, so they wear faster.

I wonder if the replacement tines wear any faster/slower than the OEM tines on an American made tiller?

One thing that I do like about the tines on my Yanmar tiller (mine are original) is that they will ride up and over stuff that would probably hang up a tiller with 'L' shaped tines. I'd rather not see what happens if the tiller were to hang on rock or root.

Keith
 
   / garden tilling #20  
I heard them also clemsonfor but all it needs to do is Grandmaws Garden ;) in which I've used it enough that it's as soft as a Rice Patty :laughing:

Carey
 

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