Garden tractor loader

qwerty15 · Mar 30, 2002

I want to build a loader for my jacobsen. What kind of steel should i use? What about bushings and grease zerks? What should the angle on the boom be? Is any design better than another? I was thinking about designing it like kubotas L35. I want the loader linkage to have at least a 4o degree rollback angle. I would also like a lift hight of 6 feet and a lift capacity of 350lbs. The loader is going to stay on the tractor so should i bolt it or weld it on. Any diagrams or close up photos of loaders would be helpful.

RanchMan · Mar 30, 2002

<font color=blue>should I bolt it or weld it on</font color=blue>

Can't help you on the specifics regarding design stuff other than to say definitely to "bolt" it on and not weld. Someday (maybe never, but never say never /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif) you may want to take it off (e.g. sell it, something breaks, want to put something else on, etc.) Welding will make that a LOT more difficult. I don't know of any "factory" FELs that aren't bolt on (could be wrong here I suppose though), so there isn't anything wrong with the concept of a bolt on device.

justractors · Mar 31, 2002

There is a "Build it Yourself" forum here that would be able to answer your questions better.
Bill

JohninCT · Jun 17, 2002

Check out Cad Plans.com They've got plans for a few different loaders for garden tractors. They have a connection with another company that will build the parts for you, so all you have to do is assemble it as a kit.

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.cadplans.com/loaders.htm>http://www.cadplans.com/loaders.htm</A>

John

exeter_acres · Jun 18, 2002

Those ROCK!!

qwerty15 · Jun 18, 2002

Ive looked at them and others. dont like one arm design and 2 arm loader looks too heavy.

exeter_acres · Jun 19, 2002

Have seen the one arm design in use on an older Farmall Cub and it appeared strange but worked just fine...

And with a Garden tractor you couldn't lift more than a couple hundred pounds anyways so the one arm seems like a viable option.

Has anyone here ever seen one of these in use?
Curtis

qwerty15 · Jun 19, 2002

I didnt plan on lifting that much and i am not confident in the one arm design. Wouldnt the twisting force be too great when corner loading the bucket.

StoneHeartFarm · Jun 19, 2002

Try www.simpletractors.com

It's a Simplicity/Alis Chalmers site but does have a photo gallery of owner projects several of which are loaders. I believe there is also a PDF line drawing of a loader that might help you. There is also info on adding hydraulics, and at least one guy who is building a hoe.

SHF

qwerty15 · Jun 20, 2002

Thanks stone
Is it worth putting a bucket linkage on the loader to get increased rollback and dump? Does this make filling the bucket easier or is it just to keep material from falling out? I was thinking about a linkage like Kabota has on the L35 or a full size case backhoe.

StoneHeartFarm · Jun 20, 2002

Just saw a link tonight on the simple tractors website that links over to ebay for a tractor/loader. The guys believe it is a Homelite tractor. Current bid when I checked is $750 with a buy it now of around $1,700-1,800.00.

The loader is a 2 arm job and appears to have hydraulic dump on the bucket. If the loader would fit your tractor, there might be more cost benefit to buying the Homelite and scavanging the loader/hydraulics. If not, at least its worth a look since it's a really clear picture of the red loader against the darker tractor. Prices I've seen on the loader at CADPlans would make this one seem reasonable.

SHF

qwerty15 · Jun 20, 2002

I saw that before i came to this site to check the posts. Dont want to spend the money on shipping and i just dont have the money to buy the tractor. i plan on buying materials for the loader as i get the money.

qwerty15 · Jun 21, 2002

I have another question. I am not sure where to put the hyraulic tank and should i have a hydraulic oil cooler also. Capacity of the tank?

StoneHeartFarm · Jun 22, 2002

Have you considered building the tank into the frame. ie, the tank is part of the frame.

SHF

hosejockey2002 · Jun 23, 2002

The guy next door to me has an old Sears lawn tractor with a factory loader. It's a neat looking little setup. It's self leveling, has a belt driven pump and the tank is built into the frame of the loader. It has a posted capacity of 500 pounds which is impressive because my Yanmar compact struggles with that much weight. I don't know how well the machine works because he's had it torn apart for years to rebuild the transaxle and hasn't got it back together yet.

qwerty15 · Jun 23, 2002

Would the frame hold enough hyraulic fluid to put up with constant use without having the oil get too hot.

StoneHeartFarm · Jun 23, 2002

Well, The frame is a pretty big area when you think about it. You can pour a lot of fluid into spaces that just don't look like they should take much.

SHF

qwerty15 · Jun 24, 2002

I think a separate tank would be better so i can add more hydraulics later for some thing like power steering or a rear lift.

StoneHeartFarm · Jun 24, 2002

I guess what you need to do is try to figure out how much fluid you need to hold. If you think about it, the tank on a car isn't that big and they get used hard. They do make a cooler for PS fluid and I understand they are frequently found on police cars. But, from the pictures I've seen of them, they don't appear to be very big.

SHF

try going here for an explaination: www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=7666

we're discussing using a PS pump for a loader.

qwerty15 · Jul 10, 2002

I want to put a joystick control valve onto my loader so i would need a 4 way 4 position spring centered with detent float valve? Like the one on northerntool.com part #201614