Gauge wheels for landscape rake

MadReferee · Sep 8, 2004

Junkman,

Those wheels have bearings on both ends and are a tight fit around the 5/8" axle. The fork spindle tubes are supposed to be 1" ID but are really just shy of 1 1/8" ID. Plenty of room for the 1" spindle to turn freely and not hold dirt, although I did think of putting a fitting in there.

Between now and November I have very little free time due to college soccer referee committments. However, I think my next project will be to add a hydraulic cylinder to the chute deflector on my Puma snowblower. Since I will not be using the tilt link for the winter I will have a free spool to use for the chute cylinder. After that I think a hydraulic angle for my back blade would be next, unless, of course, something else interesting comes along.

djradz · Sep 13, 2004

Very nice job Mad. One thing I immediately notice and then got to thinking about with all these wheel installations is: With the wheels so far out, it seems there could be quite a bit of susceptability to any change in the top link of the 3-pt, almost so much that you wouldn't need any adjustable pieces in the wheel spindle, just change the top link length slightly, and the rake will rise or fall correspondingly. Have you noticed this to be the case yet? Maybe that is why some of the manufacturers bring the wheels in so close (which makes them useless for going backward - unless you turn the rake around) but makes them less susceptable to the position of the top link. Seems out so far might also make the rake more sensitive to the ups and downs of the front end of the tractor, but it might be a pretty minor effect.

Did you look at all at premade spindles? TSC sells the wheel/spindle assempbly for about twice the cost of the wheels alone, but it still seems reasonable compared to what the rake-makers want. Anyway, very very nice.

rbcsaver · May 26, 2005

Mad,
Very nice project. I have a Land Pride LR1572 which Iused for the first time today. I did not buy the wheel set because of the cost. T rake alone was $580 last summer. I know now that Iwill need to make a set of wheels. If you drill and tap the wheel spindle collars,
then you can use a set scew/nut etc to set the wheel height while in the field. Welding a small pipe perpendicular to the collar, then drilling/tapping the whole thing will give you more threads.
regards,
Steve

MadReferee · May 27, 2005

I thought about that but I figured for my uses, once I got it set right with collar spacers I would never have to change it.

djradz · May 27, 2005

Yes, and the little that you might can easily be accommodated with just a slight lengthening or shortening of your 3-pt top link. Longer link, less digging by rake, shorter link - more digging. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

PILOON · May 27, 2005

I like your setup and think I'll borrow a lot of it

ONLY
I will adapt it to my back blade to make it into a 'guaged' grader.

I have been mulling ways of adding 'guage wheels' to my blade as I grade a fait bit and am tired of the whoopie doos that tend to happen.

Mind you grading backwards cures that, but kinky neck I can do without.

The guage wheel with spacers should solve the problem of the tilted blade for crowning operations.

MadReferee · May 28, 2005

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I was looking at the wheels (tires) you used. I have a landscape rake (not sure of the manufacturer now) but the gauge wheels are "solid rubber pieces, mounted on a rim" (the best way I know to describe it). They are very heavy, and have a tendency to plough in tilled soil rather than turn (I have kept the shaft well lubed). I have wondered if a lighter tire would work better, but was afraid a tubeless or tubed tire might roll off the rim when turning. Can anyone give me some advice from their experience? )</font>

Hasn't happened to me. The air filled wheels tend to just float along.

Freds · May 28, 2005

My ga wheels are filled with air, also. They work equally well whether using the rake or the blade in snow.

awilco · Aug 15, 2017

Old thread, wanted people to know you can build a cheap wheel. Who needs 2? My Land Pride 60" weighs less than 175 lbs. Ran cross a heavy caster wheel at TS for $10 + 2 trailer clamps and an old piece of oak. 10 minutes later have a functioning gauge wheel. Works fantastic and about $15 total.