Gauge wheels

[HomeBrew2]

I designed mine so that the implement would be plumb and square to the gauge wheel spindles (hope that makes sense). I have 3 implements of diff heights so that is where I use spindle spacers. I never use the spacers for adjusting height while using an implement ... only use the top link.

 

[Maine_Polack]

Thanks for the help. It looks like most of the gauge wheels have a "fixed" height. What would be the ideal height for say spreading sand or gravel?

As others have said, once you get the height you are happy with you will probably leave it there. However, for myself I do change the height sometimes. I'm thinking of adding on to the top of the spindle so as to be able to have more adjustment.

The attachment shows my spacers. Look for the grease lines.

I should give credit for the design of these wheels to Homebrew2.
I "think" he was sober when helping me , and I appreciated his help very much

 

[HomeBrew2]

...

 

[srjones]

Here is yet another way to build guage wheels which is what I just finished on my 72" KK landscape rake. I purchased 2-10" pneumatic swivel caster wheels from Harbor Freight ($9.99 each on sale) and bolted it to a 3/8" peice of steel. Then, I welded a 1" nut with 1" All-Thread to the top side of the plate. The top is held in place by more nuts, washers and lock washers.

The part connects to the rake is based off of other posts I've seen here and uses a short peice of receiver 'scope' tube.

The main advantage to this approach is that each side is infinitely adjustable without taking it apart. The downside, though, is that I need a big wrench around to do that, and I need to keep the threads lubed up to keep from rusting. As other's have mentioned, this design can be used on box bladed and other implements where you want to maintain a specific depth.

 

[bigdad]

This is what I came up with for my backblade. I used basically the same setup last winter but with different wheels. (Hard rubber wheels couldn't take the cold) I take the pin out of the horizontal adjustment and let it "float" to the contour of the surface.

The adjustment slots are pretty forgiving when it comes to getting the right height. Like one of the fellas said, adjustment of the top link is important too.

Good luck Sir.

 

[Egon]

Very nice product fellows. Pat yourself on the back.

 

[Youare]

I just made a set for my York landscape rake. If I had bought what the dealer offered they would have cost me almost $300.00. Bing the cheap sort of guy I am I thought I could make a set for less money.

I have about $50.00 invested in metal, I used 3/16 inch wall 2" square steel tubing a little over kill but it will not bend or brake. The tires cost me $20.00 for the pair. The local Ace Hardware store had pneumatic replacement tires for riding mowers, we will see how they hold up.

To add wheels to a back blade would not be much different than a rake. I can adjust the height very easy. I borrowed a couple of collars from a weight set the kids were all done with.

A local machine shop did all the welding I needed for $10.00.

Randy

 

[kwolfe]

Ok, I can't weld and I am cheap. What are my options. You guys have some great looking ideas that look fairly inexpensive to put together, however I CAN'T WELD!. Sorry, venting my own frustration.

 

[Spark_man]

You must have a welder nearby that would do the work for you for not a lot of money. I know of at least 4 shops in a 20 mile radius from my house and I live in the boonies! If not, you might try asking around feed stores, hardware stores (not Lowe's or Home Depot - they are worthless), your local tractor dealer, auto repair shop, etc. if they know of any welders around that would be willing to do a small side project. Someone will turn up.

Or, and this is the most obvious solution, buy a welder and learn how to weld.

 

[RonR]

Kwolfe,

There are fewer of these around, but you might check to see if a vo-tech place or a high school shop class teacher could have one of his students weld the stuff up for you.

ron