GC 1705 in snow

   / GC 1705 in snow #1  

weeder

Silver Member
Joined
May 12, 2015
Messages
228
Location
Tuscola Illinois
Tractor
John Deere 425 lawn tractor
I am wondering how well a 2017 GC 1705 will push and load snow. Do I need chains just on the front or no chains at?
 
   / GC 1705 in snow #2  
All flat surface pushing?
Rear chains will give you better traction also loaded tires or rear ballast,if decide on rear chain check to see if you need rear spacers.
 
   / GC 1705 in snow
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thanks for the info I'm betting chains are very expensive for the rear tires and probably a pain to install?
 
   / GC 1705 in snow #4  
We never pushed snow or used the loader. Every year I would put the snowblower on the front for my dad to use at his place. It's a 2014.

Flat surface no chains required for that. He had a slight incline and it was a challenge with no chains.

We never got chains for it but if someone keeps them tight I'd use them. Front or back, you will get many suggestions.

Things to light, Ballast will definitely make a big difference
 
   / GC 1705 in snow
  • Thread Starter
#5  
What do you mean by ballast liquid in the rear tires? Also he mentioned spacers for chains being a new owner I'm clueless.
 
   / GC 1705 in snow #6  
In the tires or maybe make a ballast box for the 3 point. Anything to add weight will help.

When I load gravel in our dump truck, I'll throw the tiller on the back to keep the back wheels planted better.

Good little tractor but it's light.

As for spacers, gotta make sure you can clear the axle/frame on the side. I never put chains on it so not sure if there's enough.
 
   / GC 1705 in snow
  • Thread Starter
#7  
In the tires or maybe make a ballast box for the 3 point. Anything to add weight will help.

When I load gravel in our dump truck, I'll throw the tiller on the back to keep the back wheels planted better.

Good little tractor but it's light.

As for spacers, gotta make sure you can clear the axle/frame on the side. I never put chains on it so not sure if there's enough.
Okay I Thank You for the advice even tho it is over 100 here in central Illinois winter is not that far from us.
 
   / GC 1705 in snow #8  
So the first question would be "What tires do you have?". If your tractor has turf tires there's a good chance you won't need chains. If you bought industrial (Backhoe) tires you'll need chains or people have had luck with sipping them too. If you bought ag tires then cheap chains will help a little but they tend to fall into the lugs and are close to useless there. If you buy ladder chains for ag tires you'll be ok.

Second question is what kind of snow do you get? We generally have really dry snow and I can push with the fel until the engine stalls. (35 engine horse power with turf tires) If the snow is wet and icy I run out of traction very quickly but that's only happened once since 2004.

Hopefully that gives you a bit of an idea. I had a set of chains for my 955 but never used them.
 
   / GC 1705 in snow #9  
Thanks for the info I'm betting chains are very expensive for the rear tires and probably a pain to install?
All depends on the grip you want.
Putting chains on not pain,there many different ways I prefer jacking up rear end,after chain I use heavy duty bungee cords for the extra snug.

youtube shows idea how to put chains on.
 
   / GC 1705 in snow #10  
Every situation will be different, so you will get a wide range of answers, some relevant, some not.
Driveway:
paved/gravel
flat/sloped
existing road crown, does it slope down into ditches on the sides (enough of an angle, you can slide sideways in icy conditions)
Is there room at the ends or sides to push snow into a pile for the entire season (this is why blowers are preferable)
Tractor:
Type of tires on unit (turfs work quite well in icy conditions, chains help in deep snow)
Rear counterweight on 3pt increases traction on rear tires. Have to find a balance, too much weight can make front steering difficult.
Rear/front blade, or front/rear snowblower will affect the setup for the rest of the tractor.
Chains improve rear traction with all tires, but can mark asphalt. Different chains may have clearance issues with the fenders and contol linkages on the inside of the wheelwell, thus the use of spacers.
Weather:
The amount of snow you get at a time, just a couple inches, or a foot+
Is blowing snow an issue. Use of a blade it raises the side of the snowbank, drifting snow can fill it back in higher than the original snowfall.
Is Ice or snow more of an issue

If you post a picture of the driveway, it helps in any advice given, but no 2 peoples experience will be exactly the same. You have to find out what's right for you.
 
   / GC 1705 in snow #11  
Okay I Thank You for the advice even tho it is over 100 here in central Illinois winter is not that far from us.
I'm SW MI and we are only around 90 or maybe a twich more, but yeah, in a couple months it's gonna change.

Pretty sure we have wetter snow than you due to lake MI. Not sure conditions down by you
 
   / GC 1705 in snow
  • Thread Starter
#12  
So the first question would be "What tires do you have?". If your tractor has turf tires there's a good chance you won't need chains. If you bought industrial (Backhoe) tires you'll need chains or people have had luck with sipping them too. If you bought ag tires then cheap chains will help a little but they tend to fall into the lugs and are close to useless there. If you buy ladder chains for ag tires you'll be ok.

Second question is what kind of snow do you get? We generally have really dry snow and I can push with the fel until the engine stalls. (35 engine horse power with turf tires) If the snow is wet and icy I run out of traction very quickly but that's only happened once since 2004.

Hopefully that gives you a bit of an idea. I had a set of chains for my 955 but never used them.
Well AG tires came with the tractor the last 2-3 yrs not much snow but I'm always prepared. I plow my drive which is fairly large and not much slant and my 2 neighbors also and there about the same as mine. We get all kinds of snow here in central Illinois and of course lots of wind and drifts.
 
   / GC 1705 in snow
  • Thread Starter
#13  
So the first question would be "What tires do you have?". If your tractor has turf tires there's a good chance you won't need chains. If you bought industrial (Backhoe) tires you'll need chains or people have had luck with sipping them too. If you bought ag tires then cheap chains will help a little but they tend to fall into the lugs and are close to useless there. If you buy ladder chains for ag tires you'll be ok.

Second question is what kind of snow do you get? We generally have really dry snow and I can push with the fel until the engine stalls. (35 engine horse power with turf tires) If the snow is wet and icy I run out of traction very quickly but that's only happened once since 2004.

Hopefully that gives you a bit of an idea. I had a set of chains for my 955 but never used them.
What do ladder chains look like?
 
   / GC 1705 in snow #14  
I was wrong in calling them ladder style. Apparently that's what a normal style tire chain is called.

Here's what I was thinking of:

1690637578655.png


This type of chain won't fall between the lugs on an ag style tire.
 
   / GC 1705 in snow #15  
Standard chains work on ag tires just they ride rough at higher travel speeds. That was all we had and used them on our M Farmall as well as 5600 Ford when farming in central MN. Now live in northern IL on flat ground and do not have chains for the Branson 2400H and have no trouble pushing snow. Real problem is ice and then chains are the only solution. Same with Kubota Bx1850 I had prior to 2400H.

Deere X540 with turfs requires chains to move its own shadow. Suspect part of that is width of tires vs weight of tractor.
 
   / GC 1705 in snow #17  
Based on where you live in central Ill. you get roughly the same snow fall as we do in North Central Ohio. I looked up the averages and Ill. gets 38 where Ohio gets 28. But Northern Ill. probably makes your snowfall total higher and my snowfall, one hour north of Columbus, is always higher than everyone in Columbus. We usually get about twice the snowfall they get one hour South of us. We are in kind of a snow track.

That said, and having owned almost the exact tractor you own, (MF GC2400) just a few years older. Since you don't have slope, you do not need chains. They are expensive and they are a pain to put on. I've run chains on other things.

What you will need, and this is a certainty if trying to push much snow, is rear ballast. Tires being filled does not give you enough ballast to push snow with industrial tires.

You need to look on FB marketplace or CL and find a used Dirt scoop or ballast box. You can pick up a dirt scoop for $200 if you watch. I like the King Kutter (AKA Country Line or Tarter), since they weigh almost #300 empty. Put three bags of sand in it and you are #450. For less than $220 you have your ballast and you have a bag of sand if you get stuck : ) Don't worry that they are crusty, they can be sanded and painted whatever color you like. A new will cost you $700 so don't do that. When empty the are easy to slide around or move with forks. In summer, they can be used to carry tools, equipment and supplies to a work site and just keep on the tractor for ballast for loader work. Every compact or SCUT should own one IMO.

They are fairly low footprint for storing and for when they on behind your tractor. You do not want a 4' wide implement on the back when pushing snow, unless it is a rear blade which you can use to push snow.

Here is an example of the KK and it has been out there a long time.
1690642132512.png
 
Last edited:
   / GC 1705 in snow
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Based on where you live in central Ill. you get roughly the same snow fall as we do in North Central Ohio. I looked up the averages and Ill. gets 38 where Ohio gets 28. But Northern Ill. probably makes your snowfall total higher and my snowfall, one hour north of Columbus, is always higher than everyone in Columbus. We usually get about twice the snowfall they get one hour South of us. We are in kind of a snow track.

That said, and having owned almost the exact tractor you own, (MF GC2400) just a few years older. Since you don't have slope, you do not need chains. They are expensive and they are a pain to put on. I've run chains on other things.

What you will need, and this is a certainty if trying to push much snow, is rear ballast. Tires being filled does not give you enough ballast to push snow with industrial tires.

You need to look on FB marketplace or CL and find a used Dirt scoop or ballast box. You can pick up a dirt scoop for $200 if you watch. I like the King Kutter (AKA Country Line or Tarter), since they weigh almost #300 empty. Put three bags of sand in it and you are #450. For less than $220 you have your ballast and you have a bag of sand if you get stuck : ) Don't worry that they are crusty, they can be sanded and painted whatever color you like. A new will cost you $700 so don't do that. When empty the are easy to slide around or move with forks. In summer, they can be used to carry tools, equipment and supplies to a work site and just keep on the tractor for ballast for loader work. Every compact or SCUT should own one IMO.

They are fairly low footprint for storing and for when they on behind your tractor. You do not want a 4' wide implement on the back when pushing snow, unless it is a rear blade which you can use to push snow.

Here is an example of the KK and it has been out there a long time.
View attachment 813401
How do you hook it up with your 3 point hitch?
 
   / GC 1705 in snow #19  
Just like you would any other 3pt implement. There are two lower points and one higher top link. On the one in the picture I posted earlier, they have the lower points moved to the opposite side of the dirt scoop from what I have them. There are holes on both sides so that you can move them to the front or the back of the scoop, depending on the need.

Here is a pic of the way I hook mine up. Not my tractor.

1690645212113.png
 
   / GC 1705 in snow
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Just like you would any other 3pt implement. There are two lower points and one higher top link. On the one in the picture I posted earlier, they have the lower points moved to the opposite side of the dirt scoop from what I have them. There are holes on both sides so that you can move them to the front or the back of the scoop, depending on the need.

Here is a pic of the way I hook mine up. Not my tractor.

View attachment 813402
Ok thks
 

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