GC 2310 Block Heater

[irvingj]

Interesting, Walt-- mine has done the same thing: When brand new, it started very quickly-- after a few hrs were on it, I found it helped considerably to use the glow plugs, even when the weather was warm. Last winter (from about 15 hrs on it), I found I too had to glow it for 20-30 seconds before she'd light off.

It always started, but seemed to complain a bit, with lottsa smoke initially & some roughness. That's why I wanted to get the heater. A lot more like the Peugeot 504D I had than the VW TDI I now have.... I just figured that was the way it was--

 

[ray66v]

A 3 cylinder is not a ideally "balanced" motor to begin with. That's why even numbers are commonly used in engines.

If one cylinder is not burning, and the other two are, when it lights, it will run real rough, and smoke.

If it won't start on a 70F day, without glow plugs, you can skip testing them, for now.

After checking your glow plugs, if you have one of those non contact laser thermometers, you can check each cylinder right after starting, and see which is cooler. Then, check the compression, and see if it shows lower on that cylinder. If that is not the case, move on to the air/fuel system.

White smoke after the engine is running, can signal injector issues, injector timing issues, pump issues, compression issues, or possible air in the fuel system.

Have you guy's with the slow starting engines, ever run it completely out of fuel?

I have a high time Mitsubishi diesel in my Reelmaster mower, I finally learned, through trial and error, if I simply move the throttle from closed, to full open, and back to closed half way, while its cranking, it starts right up. No other throttle setting works. Why??? I don't know. My current theory is that all engines, like computers, are female.

So, perhaps if all else fails, and there is nothing apparently wrong, you need to find the right combination of clicking your heels together, and saying "there's no place like home", and you'll be good to go.

 

[WilliamBos]

A 3 cylinder is not a ideally "balanced" motor to begin with. That's why even numbers are commonly used in engines.

If one cylinder is not burning, and the other two are, when it lights, it will run real rough, and smoke.

If it won't start on a 70F day, without glow plugs, you can skip testing them, for now.

After checking your glow plugs, if you have one of those non contact laser thermometers, you can check each cylinder right after starting, and see which is cooler. Then, check the compression, and see if it shows lower on that cylinder. If that is not the case, move on to the air/fuel system.

White smoke after the engine is running, can signal injector issues, injector timing issues, pump issues, compression issues, or possible air in the fuel system.

Have you guy's with the slow starting engines, ever run it completely out of fuel?

I have a high time Mitsubishi diesel in my Reelmaster mower, I finally learned, through trial and error, if I simply move the throttle from closed, to full open, and back to closed half way, while its cranking, it starts right up. No other throttle setting works. Why??? I don't know. My current theory is that all engines, like computers, are female.

So, perhaps if all else fails, and there is nothing apparently wrong, you need to find the right combination of clicking your heels together, and saying "there's no place like home", and you'll be good to go.

Excellent points. So, how much faith should we have in a self priming fuel system like on these??

 

[WilliamBos]

Just bought one from Northwood Power-- It was a bit pricey at $140+, but man, the thing fits perfectly! It seems very well put together, its mounting plate made out of 3/16" solid steel of some kind, and the installation was a breeze.

Just poke out the upper freeze plug on the front left side of the engine (just above oil filter), put some silicone grease on the o-ring fitting, and it pops right in. Threaded holes in the block are already there.

Attached with two bolts (though only one came with the kit-), it also has a detachable 120VAC plug that's held in with a threaded collar so it can be removed when not needed. I also found that a standard garden hose cap fits the thread to cover the socket when the AC cord's not attached.

My hope is that I'll be able to reduce warm-up time (consuming $$diesel fuel). It ain't huge at only 400 watts, but it ought to do the job....

How nice that you can get your hands in there. One advantage to the way your engine is mounted.

Here is our 1523 - same engine. Dealer installed when we bought the tractor, no labour. Cost $50.

 

[DEWFPO]

A 3 cylinder is not a ideally "balanced" motor to begin with. That's why even numbers are commonly used in engines.

If one cylinder is not burning, and the other two are, when it lights, it will run real rough, and smoke.

If it won't start on a 70F day, without glow plugs, you can skip testing them, for now.

After checking your glow plugs, if you have one of those non contact laser thermometers, you can check each cylinder right after starting, and see which is cooler. Then, check the compression, and see if it shows lower on that cylinder. If that is not the case, move on to the air/fuel system.

White smoke after the engine is running, can signal injector issues, injector timing issues, pump issues, compression issues, or possible air in the fuel system.

Have you guy's with the slow starting engines, ever run it completely out of fuel?

I have a high time Mitsubishi diesel in my Reelmaster mower, I finally learned, through trial and error, if I simply move the throttle from closed, to full open, and back to closed half way, while its cranking, it starts right up. No other throttle setting works. Why??? I don't know. My current theory is that all engines, like computers, are female.

So, perhaps if all else fails, and there is nothing apparently wrong, you need to find the right combination of clicking your heels together, and saying "there's no place like home", and you'll be good to go.

The engine's never been run out of fuel. When it starts if starts with a puff of smoke but that's all. It runs clean after it starts. I always give it a little throttle while cranking it, it seems to start faster that way. Once running, I just give it enough throttle to idle smoothly otherwise it shakes real bad when cold, not quit as bad when hot. I would never consider this engine a smooth idler for the reasons you mentioned. At hot idle it's at about 1,200 rpm, when cold it idles at about 1,000 and rough so I bump it up a little. The engine has plenty of power, is smooth running and doesn't cough or smoke.

I agree with it being female and with the correct heel clicking procedure it starts just fine. You just can't deviate from the procedure.

Thanks,

DEWFPO

 

[DEWFPO]

Interesting, Walt-- mine has done the same thing: When brand new, it started very quickly-- after a few hrs were on it, I found it helped considerably to use the glow plugs, even when the weather was warm. Last winter (from about 15 hrs on it), I found I too had to glow it for 20-30 seconds before she'd light off.

It always started, but seemed to complain a bit, with lottsa smoke initially & some roughness. That's why I wanted to get the heater. A lot more like the Peugeot 504D I had than the VW TDI I now have.... I just figured that was the way it was--

Thanks, I feel a bit better now. As Ray66v says, I think these engines just need a certain procedure followed to start them. Each one may be a little different. I've got mine figured out so she always starts.

It bothered me and I mentioned it on this forum last year but never could figure anything out. Then, the other day, a neighbor had a brand spanking new JD2305 sitting in his driveway. The temp was about 50F and he walked over, hit the key and it fired right up without glow plugs. I was jealous.

On the other hand, the 2300 has much more metal compared to the JD green plastic parts, and the font axle on the 2300 is massive compared to the one on the 2305. It's easier to open the hood on the MF and I really do like the rocker pedal, I guess I've gotten used to it compared to the dual pedal setup. The control lever is better situated on the JD and I believe you can lower and roll the bucket at the same time whereas you can't on the 2300.

DEWFPO

 

[ray66v]

When it starts if starts with a puff of smoke but that's all. It runs clean after it starts. I always give it a little throttle while cranking it, it seems to start faster that way. Once running, I just give it enough throttle to idle smoothly otherwise it shakes real bad when cold, not quit as bad when hot. I would never consider this engine a smooth idler for the reasons you mentioned. At hot idle it's at about 1,200 rpm, when cold it idles at about 1,000 and rough so I bump it up a little. The engine has plenty of power, is smooth running and doesn't cough or smoke.
DEWFPO

This all matches how mine acts exactly.

 

[DEWFPO]

This all matches how mine acts exactly.

I guess that makes it normal behavior then. I'll let go of it. Thanks guys.

DEWFPO

 

[irvingj]

William-- I know; the dealer's service guy, when showing me on a "showroom" (translation: out in the cold!!) 2410 how to mount the heater said I was lucky I didn't have a 1500 series, that the 2300/2400s were a breeze by comparison.

Ray & Walt-- I had noticed the same as far as bumping the idle up after a cold start-- seems to run better-- but I haven't tried playing with the throttle before starting; I'll try that.

Like you others, once it's started & warmed up a bit it seems just fine; no white smoke, just a bunch of typical black diesel smoke on initial start.

My theory was, judging by the smoke & noise ("shock & awe??) on cold start, my little 2310 was trying to sound "just like one of the big boys"....

 

[WilliamBos]

William-- I know; the dealer's service guy, when showing me on a "showroom" (translation: out in the cold!!) 2410 how to mount the heater said I was lucky I didn't have a 1500 series, that the 2300/2400s were a breeze by comparison.

Ray & Walt-- I had noticed the same as far as bumping the idle up after a cold start-- seems to run better-- but I haven't tried playing with the throttle before starting; I'll try that.

Like you others, once it's started & warmed up a bit it seems just fine; no white smoke, just a bunch of typical black diesel smoke on initial start.

My theory was, judging by the smoke & noise ("shock & awe??) on cold start, my little 2310 was trying to sound "just like one of the big boys"....

We give our 1523 just a little throttle before start up, seems to fire faster, and a little smoother.