GC1710 fuel gauge stuck at full

[Langanobob]

Back to the OP’s problem, which is the opposite. My fuel gauge didn’t move at all, which indicates an open circuit, bad ground or something similar. A gauge that goes to full all the time seems like it must have some sort of short in the system, or the sending unit float is mechanically stuck in the full position. That doesn’t sound likely since the sending unit was replaced with no change. I’m kind of at a loss unless the wiring insulation is worn through and grounding out somewhere. That seems like it would blow a fuse but maybe not.

 

[lpakiz]

The tank sender must have a good path to ground. To test this, clamp a small vise grip to one of the screws holding the sender into tank. Use a jumper wire (or jumper cable) to connect the vise grip to the negative battery terminal. Does this change anything.
Usually the sender has its own ground, but this can be compromised by corrosion or dirt or? so it is not effective.

 

[WranglerX]

Try removing wire from/to gauge off sender (yellow/red) with key on (should read empty)... Anything happen?..... Try grounding sender wire with key on (should read full), anything happen?

Non gauge side of sender (black wire) should have/be direct ground....

With wires disconnected from sender you should be able to read resistive load across sender terminals with ohm meter ...

Full about 7 Ohms
Half full about 38 (+/-) Ohms
Empty about 95 Ohms

Dale

 

[farmerwanttobe]

I have a 1998 John Deere 5510N that the fuel gauge goes immediatly to full when key is turned on. Tank is actually about 1/3 full. I've checked the float in the tank and it moves up/down. I checked resistance on the two post of the sending unit and 0 ohm at full and about 40-50 partially empty. Any ideas?? I tried to pull the gauge cluster from the console but this is a big job. And console is $600 and not sure that would fix it. I appreciate any troubleshooting advice.

Thanks

 

[Jay1526]

Check the screws that hold the gauge to printed circuit board, they are part of connection path from PC board to gauge mechanisms.... Had problem with temperature gauge not registering when new tractor was delivered ... A minute or two and stubby screw driver fixed it... Look from engine compartment side at 3 or 4 screws directly under gauge..

Dale

Iam having this exact problem with my 1526. I pulled the gauge cluster out and noticed at the back there is 3 gold colored screws behind the temp gauge and only 2 behind the fuel with a vacant spot where the 3rd should be. I guess it fell out? Seems odd for a machine with only 350 hours on it. The fuel gauge did work. I swapped one of these screws from the back of the temp gauge over to the fuel gauge and voila! Fuel gauge works. This single magic screw is turning out to be quite a challenge to find! Agco only lists the complete cluster as it is outsourced for Massey tractors. It is gold in color, probably....2 inches long, and a really fine thread. I tried a few different auto places to find a matching machine screw but no luck. Any suggestions or more detail on these magic gold screws?

 

[WranglerX]

Iam having this exact problem with my 1526. I pulled the gauge cluster out and noticed at the back there is 3 gold colored screws behind the temp gauge and only 2 behind the fuel with a vacant spot where the 3rd should be. I guess it fell out? Seems odd for a machine with only 350 hours on it. The fuel gauge did work. I swapped one of these screws from the back of the temp gauge over to the fuel gauge and voila! Fuel gauge works. This single magic screw is turning out to be quite a challenge to find! Agco only lists the complete cluster as it is outsourced for Massey tractors. It is gold in color, probably....2 inches long, and a really fine thread. I tried a few different auto places to find a matching machine screw but no luck. Any suggestions or more detail on these magic gold screws?

It's probably metric, and does not have to be gold in color.... IF you find screw that fits... Get a little dielectric grease (small packet of light bulb grease from hardware store) and a little bit under head and some on threads.... IT will prevent plain steel or zink plated screw from corroding... Screw is probably gold plated for conductivity and anti corrosion, but in reality any screw that fits will work... Might try misc screw drawers at local ACE or True Value hardware...

Dale

 

[Jay1526]

I did the screw drawer thing and came up empty handed. I am curious if the length and material might change the resistance some? If it was just a screw holding a gauge in place, no big deal but when it is critical to circuitry might be a different story. I found one in the machine screw drawer that was what appeared very similar in length and thread pitch. Installed it and gauge quite working completely.

 

[WranglerX]

Quit?...

Dale

 

[Jay1526]

That was last fall already but I am pretty sure once I put the trial screw in the gauge quit. It dropped to the bottom opposed to being pegged as it is now.

 

[Jay1526]

So just an update on this issue. I finally got it fixed. As someone suggested above, it is in fact a metric screw. It's a 3mm screw to be exact. I had to go to a nut & bolt specialty store to find it but found one similar in length and voila! Back to a fully functioning dashboard.