Thanks to everyone for their input! It was a blown seal in the left cylinder. I did have them both rebuilt with PSC piston seals.. Thanks for all the help. BTW I did watch the video someone posted about how to check a cylinder for blown seal, however my hydro guy just used compressed air@ 100 psi, and a rubber nipple on the air hose to seal to the hose fitting. He did not cap either fitting, but it was easy to tell which seal was blown as air and remaining fluid blew out the opposite hose as it pushed past the seal. Thanks again for all the suggestions.. im certainly glad it wasnt my actual loader valve!
GC1723 loader bucket curl bleeding down
- Thread starter smeash
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Thanks to everyone for their input! It was a blown seal in the left cylinder. I did have them both rebuilt with PSC piston seals.. Thanks for all the help. BTW I did watch the video someone posted about how to check a cylinder for blown seal, however my hydro guy just used compressed air@ 100 psi, and a rubber nipple on the air hose to seal to the hose fitting. He did not cap either fitting, but it was easy to tell which seal was blown as air and remaining fluid blew out the opposite hose as it pushed past the seal. Thanks again for all the suggestions.. im certainly glad it wasnt my actual loader valve!
wdchyd
Elite Member
Glad it worked out for you. You may want to update the other two cylinder piston seals in the future.
Some shops use compressed air, unfortunately it is not a proper and accurate test of a cylinder rebuilt. Our test unit is rated for 3000 psi but is capable of intensification of up to 5000. After a fresh rebuild it only takes minutes to ramp it up, operate the cylinder at full in/out and mid stroke, then an air purge to recover most of the oil (if it doesn’t have counterbalance/lock valves).
Here’s a few pics of a cylinder that leaked above 1000 psi (cracked at cyl base plate), we had to machine, reweld, repack and test to 3000 psi. Compressed air would not have shown a leak.
Some shops use compressed air, unfortunately it is not a proper and accurate test of a cylinder rebuilt. Our test unit is rated for 3000 psi but is capable of intensification of up to 5000. After a fresh rebuild it only takes minutes to ramp it up, operate the cylinder at full in/out and mid stroke, then an air purge to recover most of the oil (if it doesn’t have counterbalance/lock valves).
Here’s a few pics of a cylinder that leaked above 1000 psi (cracked at cyl base plate), we had to machine, reweld, repack and test to 3000 psi. Compressed air would not have shown a leak.