GC2300/2350FEL help. owners manual doesn't match my equipment. rtfm

[eCRX]

I had all 3 control-to-tractor lines made new. got cocky and took all 3 lines off without labeling. figured the correct connections would be in the manual like they are for the FEL lines.
welp, the manual shows only 2 lines and the various parts diagram only confuse me more. I'm second guessing my memory because the new lines have longer metal sleeves and one of the lines seems slightly short. The icing on the cake is the lack of documentation from the nimco site. it's as if the 10339-2S never existed! I can usually get my geek on and get out of a jam like this by reading documentation, but I just can't get the info I need.

controller is Nimco 10339-2S

I did some searching and have determined that some GC2300 have been 'upgraded' throughout their life with a 3rd power-beyond line. later models included this from the factory.

anyway, I can narrow my question down to these two questions:

- can anyone confirm where this side-port (Green) line goes to?
- can anyone confirm that the red port goes to a 90deg elbow on the back of the tractor?

also, what are the consequences of guessing? I imagine either no control (fluid going strait to tank, or pressure side hooked up to tank side), triggering the relief valve on start-up, or weird control issues... but i'm not sure if one of those scenarios will damage something or myself


(Barrowed a pic from another thread)

 

[lpakiz]

Can you get a good look at the 2 ports that are the Inlet and the Tank ports on your valve? The inlet could be labeled with a P (for pressure) or I (for inlet), and sometimes the words are actually embossed right on the body.
Then maybe T or R for return to the tank.
Try blowing into one of the hoses. I would wager that the return-to-tank hose would allow your lungs to push air thru it. Doubtful you could blow thru the pressure supply hose back into the pump.

It might be helpful to get your hoses bundled and pointing into a 5 gallon bucket. Roll the engine over (or quickly start it and shut it off) and note which hose supplies pressure and which one doesn't.

Typically the Pressure and Tank ports are on opposite sides of the valve, opposite of each other. The Delivery ports are usually side by side on another face of the valve.
It is very possible to wreck something in the valve body, the pump or pump drive train if pumped oil doesn't have a way to flow. The oil needs a circuit from tank to pump and then thru the valve body and back to the tank. If you supply pressure to the wrong port, perhaps even the relief valve might not relieve it. This could cause catastrophic damage, so proceed carefully.

 

[irvingj]

The one you have circled in red --my finger's on it in the second pic-- is the one that goes all the way back, connecting to another line to become the return circuit when the backhoe's off. On my 2310, it has both a white and a blue zip-tie marker on it. When the BH's on, those two lines separate and connect to two of the BH connections (one male, one female).

The one you have circled in green goes to a metal connection on the side of the transmission -- just behind the spring in 4th pic. On mine, it's not a 90, just a straight-in connection. Hope this helps.

 

[eCRX]

Thanks so much irv!

I'm 99% sure I have it figured out now. You have slight differences but I have enough to go by to hook up the lines with confidence. Gotta love the 101 differences between machines from the exact same generation

I was second guessing everything because the dealer made my new lines out of 6100psi hose, the longer bend radius and longer crimps make a huge difference. I have to accommodate by using 45s, now sure all customers would be ok with this. I don't mind the extra work and expense for beefier parts.

Your pic may have helped in other ways - by giving me more options. My valve uses 90 fittings on the top ports. I might do a quick 'blow through line' like ipakiz suggested, and test and see if i can switch to this configuration. you can see how a stiffer line on the left fittings wont make the turn. 45's couplings should solve this.

Anyway, THANKS AGAIN. Best forum on the 'net.

 

[irvingj]

Glad to help. If you need anything further, let me know. Incidentally, I also had to change that line on mine (circled in red). It was also a heavier line, made up by a local hydraulics shop. The lines that came with the tractor suffer, I fear, from the usual bean-counter mentality of making things as inexpensively as possible.

You might also want to inspect your stranded ground cable at some point -- they were notoriously a tad short on 2300s and would eventually break off due to normal vibrations of our 3-cylinder diesels. Prior to breaking the last few strands, longer start times will be evidenced; when the last few strands let go, everything will seem to be normal (lights, dash lights etc. all work), but the starter will not crank the engine. It's located near the oil cooler, going from the engine block to the frame.

 

[eCRX]

Thanks for the tip. I'll have a look, I'm sure a bad ground can cause all kinds of hard-to-solve issues.

I ran out and got a 45° crimp fitting and did some eyeballing. For people going with higher psi lines (Princess Auto & connect equipment), consider a 45's on the two fittings closer to the outside. It helps greatly with being able run the lines along the original paths. I have to cut and replace at least one of my lines with a 45.

 

[eCRX]

Everything works. thanks again the the help guys.

Had a bit of a scare because the FEL (boom) would hardly lift the tractor's front end up. turns out 410lbs of ballast with the parking brake on wouldn't allow it, the back tires bite in hard and it goes into bypass. once the parking brake was off, and the back tires could roll, the front end launches up no problem.

 

[DMW]

Agco Parts for schematics. Browse for the MF2350 loader. All the variations are there.

 

[ray66v]

Incidentally, I also had to change that line on mine (circled in red). It was also a heavier line, made up by a local hydraulics shop.

You might also want to inspect your stranded ground cable at some point -- they were notoriously a tad short on 2300s and would eventually break off due to normal vibrations of our 3-cylinder diesels.

I still have all the original hydraulic hoses, the original ground strap, and my muffler hasn't had to be welded.

 

[eCRX]

I still have all the original hydraulic hoses, the original ground strap, and my muffler hasn't had to be welded.

wow, maybe you got a version the engineers built, before the accountants got involved.

My machine is a perfect example of why you should NOT leave your tractor exposed to UV. The parts of the lines that were exposed to UV looked twice as old.