GC2310 Hydraulics testing. Plug the transmission fittings?

[johng650]

Hi Everyone, I'm the new owner of a very rust GC2310 TLB. I bought it for a cheap $500 mostly just so I could use the backhoe arm and hydraulics to build a small tow behind backhoe. But if the tractor can be made to run without spending too much $$ I'd rather just use the platform as it was intended.

I'm documenting the process on my YouTube Channel, if you want to follow along, the latest is here

I'm at the next step in verifying operation of the tractor, checking out the hydraulics and transmission. My plan is to remove all the back sheet metal, the seat, maybe the fuel tank and expose the the backhoe/loader hydraulics. All the hydraulic hoses are trash, rusty balls of junk, so I want to close up the hydraulic/transmission system for testing. I also plan on draining and replacing the hydraulic fluid and the filter before testing the transmission.

My question is, can I simply plug the input/output fittings on the transmission that go for the loader and the backhoe or do I need a bypass pipe of some sort? It seems to me plugs would be ok, as that's what quick disconnects do when removed, but I'm not experienced working on hydraulic systems.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

John

 

[DMW]

Nice project to find. There is a lot of life left in that unit.
Clip or cap the cable at the throttle linkage, the excess sticking out can puncture the rad hose over time. The tractor will over heat without the fan being replaced. The same hydraulic system powers the hydrostat, front end loader and backhoe. If it moves, the system should be good. Easiest way to check pressure is to put a gauge on the FEL control valve. Give it a good cleaning, makes finding leaks a lot easier. Electrical connectors were not lubricated from factory, they may all need some cleaning. Fuel system is self bleeding, no need to crack open the fuel lines. Unless the hydraulic lines have rotted in the sun, most should be ok. I have a 2004 GC2300 with 900 hours, the only lines I have had to replace are from flexing at the fittings.

added: When you change the hydraulic fluid, if it drops clear i would keep the filter on. Fill with some not too expensive fluid that meets spec, do all the repairs, then a complete fluid and filter change afterwards. And get a guard for the filter.

 

[ray66v]

That may very well be the most tortured GC in the world.

Very sad to see it in that condition.

I would think that anyone who would do that to it, did minimal maintenance on it.

If the transmission filter is painted to match the transmission housing, it's a clue that it's never been changed.

 

[hube2]

That may very well be the most tortured GC in the world.

Very sad to see it in that condition.

that was pretty much my reaction as well

 

[DMW]

Most of it buff out , I would be worried about the condition of the valve block of the backhoe.

 

[WranglerX]

Quick and dirty test of hydraulics/pump would be to put a gauge into one of the quick connects for the FEL and dead head the control valve long enough to get gauge reading.... Think pressure should be about 1900PSI...

Hydraulic Tools - BoltOnHooks LLC

Bolt-On Hooks and Hydraulic Tools for compact tractors.

www.boltonhooks.com

Scroll down to " Hydraulic Pressure Test Gauge"....
IF your 2310 is similar to the 1700 series....And as for replacing FAN, check to see if you have splines on drive shaft at engine connection, if so you should be able to unbolt driveline at engine and pull it off spline connection on HST....

.

 

[johng650]

Thanks again for all the responses. Especially DMW.

I have a new video up showing the results of the hydrostatic drive and hydraulics tests. Spoiler: the drive works, as does the steering, but I cant get the 3 pt to raise and lower.

It's my feeling that the three point should be a basic part of the hydraulics system and shouldn't need any external piping to work. But I'm not sure at this point.

I have a service manual on order. It's a few weeks out.

Does anyone have feedback on the three point not moving? It's not frozen, I can lift and lower the arms by pushing on them. Any other suggestions or comments are appreciate.

 

[johng650]

A few responses:

To WranglerX:

"Quick and dirty test of hydraulics/pump would be to put a gauge into one of the quick connects"

All the quick disconnects are totally rusted. I don't think any of them will disconnect and some of them are rusted to the point where they just snap off if you touch them. None of the hydraulic hoses are in any condition to actually use.

"And as for replacing FAN, check to see if you have splines on drive shaft at engine connection"

Yes, the engine end of the drive shaft yoke has a spline. Unfortunately the spline is quite rusted together. I actually cut the drive shaft in half with a cut-off wheel to get it out. I've heated the yoke end of the spline with a torch, applied a LOT of PB blaster, beat on it with a brass hammer and it will not budge. At this point I'm going to probably try to get a replacement U-joint and get a shop with a powerful press to push the spline out of the yoke.

To DMW:

"I would be worried about the condition of the valve block of the backhoe."

No need to worry. It is a complete ball of rust. All the levers are just little peaks of rusted off metal. Every hydraulic hose has it's ferule (sp?) rusted off. It's a complete mess.

Thankfully I was able to get a 6 valve block on Vevor for $180 that looks like it can be made to work for the backhoe.


Thanks again everyone!

 

[DMW]

Is your serial number below or above JNA25201. It can make a difference.

I believe the addition of the FEL valve control changers the routing of the hydraulic fluid to the 3pt hitch. When you capped off the lines, you may have stopped flow to it. The 2310 also has extra hoses that I am no familiar with.

Check the orientation of the driveshaft U joints before final installation. It can affect drive-line vibration.

Because of the amount of rust, you might want to slit open (do not remove) the steering tie rod boots to inspect. Even with holes in the boot, regular spraying with fluid film will keep them lubricated.

Parking brake sounds like it is stuck on in the video.

Clean the rusted cylinders by hand as well as you can, waste of money to replace them. I assume you are not worried if it leaks a little bit.

 

[Tinhack]

Well, I tried to watch the first video and almost threw up. Jittery videos make me sick/dizzy. Sorry. But it looks like a worthwhile project.

 

[ray66v]

Considering the fact that parts prices are very high, and the amount of time it will take to make this a reliable machine, I don't think this is going to be worth it.

You are probably much better off finding a nice used one. Which will also retain much more of the money you are investing, in residual value.

 

[WranglerX]

IF this was originally equipped with BH and you disconnected (removed ) it, you probably don't have a through circuit for hydraulics to TPH, you will need a loop hose to get through flow through the "power beyond" circuit for BH as it is ahead of THP in hydraulic circuit.... In these SCUTS the TPH is last device in hydraulic circuit...

 

[johng650]

"Is your serial number below or above JNA25201. It can make a difference."

Here's what's left of the manufacturer label. I'm not sure how to interpret if it's above or below thw magic number.

"I believe the addition of the FEL valve control changers the routing of the hydraulic fluid to the 3pt hitch. When you capped off the lines, you may have stopped flow to it. The 2310 also has extra hoses that I am no familiar with."

Ok. I was assuming the 3 pt had its own piping feom the control valvw mounted above the pump. But my service manual hasnt arrived yet and its hard to tell from online parts manuals.

"Check the orientation of the driveshaft U joints before final installation. It can affect drive-line vibration."

Excellent point! I thought I had aligned the shaft back to its original location but it might be off. I'm assuming I'm going to need cut the shaft again to free the spline and to install the fan. Hopefully the service manual will cover alignment.

"Because of the amount of rust, you might want to slit open (do not remove) the steering tie rod boots to inspect. Even with holes in the boot, regular spraying with fluid film will keep them lubricated."

the steering cylinder is in such bad shape it needs to be repaired or replaced. I'm eating towards getting a cylinder from kubota and fabricating brackets to fit the Massey. The kubota cylinder is $277 and available.

"Parking brake sounds like it is stuck on
In the video."

From the driver seat it sounded like it was coming from the front, but considering how many of the control arms are frozen it wouldn't surprise me if the brakes were applied.

"Clean the rusted cylinders by hand as well as you can, waste of money to replace them. I assume you are not worried if it leaks a little bit. "

I'll give it a try for sure. Thanks for the video link. It cost about half a quart of hydraulic fluid to do the little jaunt in the video. All of it out of the steering cylinder.

Thank you again for your comments!

 

[DMW]

Your serial number is pre JNA25201. Built in 2004, they changed the serial number system in 2005/6.
Be aware, due to early build date is the hydraulic pump. It was assembled without full engagement of the spur gear with the hydrostat. Some ended up with damaged gears in the hydro. Mine is also an N-TXXXX, no issues so far at 900 hours. It's one of those things where you are better letting it fail rather than be proactive, as it may never be an issue.
Do not replace cylinders, rebuild for 1/3 the price. Saves aggravation of fitting different parts, and gives you valuable skills that will be needed for the FEL and backhoe cylinders, or the costs will start to rise quickly.
Are you aware of Agco Parts Book for looking up parts and online schematics?
The cleaning video was just the first that came up on a search, didn't see anything terribly wrong about it, but am sure there are better ones.

 

[GeneV]

Heck yeh man, that's one cool project! Gentlemen, we can rebuild him, we have the technology.

 

[Bentrim]

The loader hoe hydraulics can be bypassed by "short circuiting" the lines that run under the platform to the right side just under the platform. There was a U shaped tube that shipped with the tractor, loader when they were new.

https://parts.agcocorp.com/us/en

Main Piping system

https://parts.agcocorp.com/us/en/apbsearch?q=masseyferguson/651743/l&name=GC2300+%2F+GC2310+TRACTOR+PRIOR+S%2FN+JNA25201

Note item 56

Also note manuals are available at:AGCOPubs.com - Technical Manual Store for all AGCOCORP Brands

 

[johng650]

Thanks. I did get a hose to replace that loop fitting. The one that came with my tractor was totally rusted.

I was able to get the 3pt to lift, but it doesn't go down with the reverse lever applied. Bad spring or no hydraulic pressure to push it down?

I bought an operator's manual, a tractor service manual and an engine service manual. Hopefully those will answer some of my questions.

 

[WranglerX]

Thanks. I did get a hose to replace that loop fitting. The one that came with my tractor was totally rusted.

I was able to get the 3pt to lift, but it doesn't go down with the reverse lever applied. Bad spring or no hydraulic pressure to push it down?

I bought an operator's manual, a tractor service manual and an engine service manual. Hopefully those will answer some of my questions.

3PG does nor have any down hydraulic action, its pure gravity, only thing lever does is release hydraulic fluid from ram...if you want speed back off rate control knob or add weight...

I actually have to use stay chains when my ballast weight is on, if I don't use chains the "natural" leakage of ram lets 3PH drop...