GC2310 MMM arms-broken!

[zzvyb6]

I submit that the lift arm cross brackets broke because the lift mechanism was overtraveled: It tried to raise it higher that the cross piece had allowance for. It hit the bottom of the frame bracket and that eventually cracked the metal. This situation is probably caused by the lift mechanism being out of adjustment (too much vertical travel), or the front mower hanger is in the wrong position for the given tractor mounting brackets and tire size and type. I know that guys like the mower deck to be as high as possible for ground clearance and they want it tight against the frame so it doesn't wiggle around. But, I say its been lifted too tight against the stops. My Deere MMM could also be put into this situation but there is plenty of adjustment room.

I'll bet there is a recommended MMM elevation guideline mentioned in the manual.

 

[irvingj]

Yep, there is... and I thought I had it set up properly, but I had planned to check that out before mowing season really gets under way. Thanks for the suggestion!

Guess I'll have a few months before I have to jump on that!:laughing:

In the meantime...(see post) I have another serious problem- yard's VERY full of snow, and the tractor wouldn't start.... Had to call a friend with a plow truck!:ashamed:

 

[archerynut]

I had the front support for the MMM break, it snapped where the flat bars are welded to the round tube . I was the cause the front of the mower deck hitting a rock in the lawn, I was mowing in a new direction. I had driven on that rock many times . Had someone at work weld it back together but he did it backwards and I did not know it until I tried to put the mmm back on, had to cut it apart and get it welded again. The welds don't look pretty but worked, I plan on bring to a welding shop to make it look factory again. After seeing your problem I will looking more carefully under the tractor 2009 c g 2410 tlb

Me too, I had them welded last year and the year before. Yes the mower does take some abuse, but my wife insists on those flower beds being there.

 

[archerynut]

In the meantime...(see post) I have another serious problem- yard's VERY full of snow, and the tractor wouldn't start.... Had to call a friend with a plow truck!:ashamed:

This happened to me last year during the big snow around this time, 24" of snow 600 ft of drieway and a walk behind snowblower, not a good day. Tractor started the next day though.

 

[irvingj]

Repaired-- I hope!

I fiddled around with the arm and the spacer bracket thing, and couldn't find a way to clamp & hold everything in alignment while I welded the bracket back on-- I really need to get some clamps designed for welding!

So I found another way: I had a couple of short pieces of 3/4" iron pipe laying around, and found that the forward pin would fit through nicely-- not a lot of slop, but plenty of wiggle room.

I made a couple of 2-13/16" sleeve spacers out of the pipe, and added a large washer where it bears on the tractor frame (inboard side).

Hopefully this will provide the spacing and still allow enough play so things won't bind up. (And not snap off due to side loads!)

Another cheap repair....:thumbsup:

 

[ray66v]

Repaired-- I hope!

I fiddled around with the arm and the spacer bracket thing, and couldn't find a way to clamp & hold everything in alignment while I welded the bracket back on-- I really need to get some clamps designed for welding!

So I found another way: I had a couple of short pieces of 3/4" iron pipe laying around, and found that the forward pin would fit through nicely-- not a lot of slop, but plenty of wiggle room.

I made a couple of 2-13/16" sleeve spacers out of the pipe, and added a large washer where it bears on the tractor frame (inboard side).

Hopefully this will provide the spacing and still allow enough play so things won't bind up. (And not snap off due to side loads!)

Another cheap repair....:thumbsup:

It seems the part you eliminated, had a function. Won't the arms have a lot more side to side movement now?

 

[irvingj]

No, Ray, actually a bit less... those right-angle pieces only function, as far as I can tell, as a spacer to keep the forward end of the actual arm pushed over toward the outboard side of the connection point, which keeps it more nearly in line with the rear connection point. I see no other reason for that spacer.

With the piece broken off, it was possible for the forward end of the arm to slide inboard along the pin, at which point it would tend to bind up a bit.

I'm hoping the 1/16" of play I left in there will be OK; if not, I'll just grind down the pipe pieces a tad more.

Hopefully my crude drawing will explain.

 

[ray66v]

No, Ray, actually a bit less... those right-angle pieces only function, as far as I can tell, as a spacer to keep the forward end of the actual arm pushed over toward the outboard side of the connection point, which keeps it more nearly in line with the rear connection point. I see no other reason for that spacer.

If that is the case, there would have been no reason to engineer and build the arm attachment point, any wider than the arm. Clearly they made it wider for a reason. The effect of the piece that broke off, would be a limit of side to side movement of the opposite end of the arms, a limit which you basically will no longer have.

The spacer you made, will keep that end of the arm out bound, but does nothing to stabilize the the arm laterally.

I could be wrong here. But, it seems counter intuitive to think they made it that way, for no reason.

Perhaps it will work without that limit, but given the fact that you had enough lateral stress to break the original arms, it seems logical that stress is going to work on something else now.

 

[radioman]

from your crude drawings, I think you came up with a nifty solution that will outlast the oem brackets. :thumbsup:

 

[Wacky]

From the looks of the OEM welds, in post #15, there does not appear to be any weld penetration into the little piece that broke off?? That may be the whole problem. It looks quite rusty, like it has had water get in there and weaken whatever weld did adhere. I could be wrong but I will look at mine when I get home from vacation and try and post a pic of mine. I can't see if there was any chips in the paint from the bracket hitting the frame to break it loose from the pics. I wonder if the vibration actually caused the damage weakening the poor welds?