Oil & Fuel GC2410 Filter/Fluid Refresh, Questions..

[mgstevens]

After experiencing a gutless hydro, sticking hydro pedals and a shudder (after working the backhoe) on this new-to-me 2009 GC2410, I unmounted the backhoe, checked hydro fluid (didn't see any in the window) added some to solve the empty window, and noticed a gutsier hydro and pedals coming back to neutral quicker, but the shudder remained.

I looked at the air filter (dark, sooty) and the fuel filter (holding back chunks, very dark) and then noticed I had a new hydro filter and three 5L jugs of hydro fluid. I used some of the hydro fluid to get some to show in the window (see above) and wondered about whether to use the rest of this "meets or exceeds" generic fluid. This forum said "No" mostly, and I began the search for the best fluid I could get in this area. Along with the dim-looking air and fuel filters, the new hydro filter box yielded an invoice, for one filter - from fall 2010! This would have been a year after the tractor was originally purchased. It was not used then... Could this be the FIRST time these filters and fluids are getting changed? I parked the tractor in the shed, not to be run until it got a refresh, and began amassing the fresh filters and fluid it so desperately needed.

In the end, the regional dealer had a reasonable price on Kubota Premium UDT hydro fluid, which they use in everything (they are also a MF dealer) and I ordered up 3 jugs and new filter elements for the air and fuel, and a few miscellaneous missing parts (ROPS linch-pin, SMV sign-spade..) which came in this morning.

First thing I noticed when looking at the drains for the hydro and front axel, is that they are all LOW to the ground. Too low for my oil-catch containers anyway, so I had to look at getting the machine in the air. With some car ramps, the FEL hydraulics and a couple of jack-stands I gained 6"+/- and commenced the freshening operation. Pic here of the elevated patient.


The fuel filter was "organic" as in, supporting a farm of chunks and grunge, some of which may have been living. That change process went well. The hydro appears to have yielded about 10 liters of oil.
Interestingly, while the manual says to use sealant on drain plug (19mm), my main hydro drain had an "O" ring and no trace of sealant. The "suction filter" was interesting to remove and clean. 7/8" head BTW (or metric equiv. which I did not have..) It does come out without wheel removal, which was convenient, given how it was up on ramps and all. Lots of tiny metal shards and bits, carefully removed with solvent and a soft brush to reveal no screen damage. Air-gun dried and returned with "o" rings intact. New (old, but factory seal-wrapped) filter installed and time for the new premium go-juice.

I added exactly 11 liters as the manual shows for capacity, but I see nothing showing in the window.

Can any of you speak to that? Do I just keep adding until it shows in the window? Is the right level at the mid-point of the window?

FWIW, the machine does seem to run better - I mean, how could it not? Anyway, I just wanted to get the fluid-fill right so I can know I'm starting from a good point.

Thanks!

 

[DMW]

The goal is mid-way with all cylinders retracted.
From the pic, once you lower the FEL and bucket, it should raise the fluid level so it can be seen in the sight glass. If not, start it up and take a look while it's running. Don't over fill, as you have just changed the oil to the spec. capacity.
New oil can be very clear, difficult to see if it completely fills the sight glass.

Couple other comments.
Did you check the blades on the hydro cooling fan while you had it up?
If it is overfull, adjust the level by disconnecting one of the FEL bucket lines, and drain into a clean container using the FEL valve. A lot easier than using the bottom drain.(with the bucket lowered of course)
The shudder you describe, is it a sympathetic vibration with engine RPM, or a jerkiness when operating the hydraulics?

 

[ray66v]

If the oil filter was painted the gray, (the color of the rear end housing), it's the original one.

Add oil until you see it at any mid point in the sight glass, with the tractor level. Don't obsess over it, it's not critical.

I would go over the entire tractor. Clearly, it was not maintained well.

Dealers are notorious for missing grease fittings during "prep" for delivery, or not making sure they take grease. If the owner did not grease things either, there may be some fittings that are bone dry. Some fittings require effort to find.

Check the hoses to make sure they are not rubbing on anything, and nothing is rubbing on them. They are not always routed correctly. You can save yourself a big headache, if you catch this before it's too late.

 

[mgstevens]

The goal is mid-way with all cylinders retracted.
...
New oil can be very clear, difficult to see if it completely fills the sight glass.
...
Did you check the blades on the hydro cooling fan while you had it up?

Nice to know the machine state for optimum fluid level measurement.
The fluid is very light, but the window is empty versus full.
Yes, checked all the blades on the hydro fan and all is well.

 

[mgstevens]

If the oil filter was painted the gray, (the color of the rear end housing), it's the original one.

Add oil until you see it at any mid point in the sight glass, with the tractor level. Don't obsess over it, it's not critical.

I would go over the entire tractor. Clearly, it was not maintained well.

Dealers are notorious for missing grease fittings during "prep" for delivery, or not making sure they take grease. If the owner did not grease things either, there may be some fittings that are bone dry. Some fittings require effort to find.

Check the hoses to make sure they are not rubbing on anything, and nothing is rubbing on them. They are not always routed correctly. You can save yourself a big headache, if you catch this before it's too late.

Hmm.. The replacement filter and the one that was on it are a very dark green, so perhaps at least the 50 hour was done at the dealer..?

With the oil, I know the manual's specified quantity has been added. I wondered if a new filter is taken into account on that capacity?

The tractor was pretty gently used. Owner was in failing health and that could have impacted maintenance, but all grease fittings show ample grease oooze, but I will be confirming all.

The lower rad hose is not chafed or worn in any way near the throttle linkage that is listed as the issue, and being a "northern tractor" it has a block heater and, I believe, a decent original dealer.

I will check the other hoses.

I'm pretty sure it just needs some TLC, which I am happy to provide. I need a trusty machine to develop and maintain my property.

 

[DMW]

Cylinders retracted is an industry standard for any hydraulic equipment. Ensures there is enough room in the reservoir. If you gauged the level with them extended, the returning oil from the cylinders may exceed the capacity of the reservoir.

Using the FEL, slowly raise the front end until you can see the fluid in the sight glass. It should come into view if the level is low.

 

[mgstevens]

Cylinders retracted is an industry standard for any hydraulic equipment. Ensures there is enough room in the reservoir. If you gauged the level with them extended, the returning oil from the cylinders may exceed the capacity of the reservoir.

Using the FEL, slowly raise the front end until you can see the fluid in the sight glass. It should come into view if the level is low.

All good things to know, given how little I do know about hydraulics. I will try the FEL-lift test to see where the level is. Thanks.

 

[ray66v]

Hmm.. The replacement filter and the one that was on it are a very dark green

I know of no such approved filter.

Only the OEM and a NAPA filter, (the NAPA filter just came out), are known approved filters for this application. Both were using white, the last time I bought from them.

The fluid capacity is never exact, because of the loader and residual fluid in the hoses and cylinders. you have to go by the sight glass, not the book.

If you can't verify you have a MF filter, I suggest you order one, and change it. If you are having issues It could be the problem.

 

[mgstevens]

I know of no such approved filter.

Only the OEM and a NAPA filter, (the NAPA filter just came out), are known approved filters for this application. Both were using white, the last time I bought from them.

The fluid capacity is never exact, because of the loader and residual fluid in the hoses and cylinders. you have to go by the sight glass, not the book.

If you can't verify you have a MF filter, I suggest you order one, and change it. If you are having issues It could be the problem.

Yeah, the filter came from an Agco dealer, dealer invoice for it, and came in this box. The part number says it's the OEM part in an online search.




It should be fine. I would like to gather more opinions though: Which to follow/believe for the proper hydro fluid level: the window or the listed capacity?

 

[RedGeminiPA]

Always go by the window on level ground, as suggested above.