GC2410 Pivot Axle Seal Leaking-Shop Manual Sux.

cdaigle430 · May 26, 2020

Found both sides leaking now and its pretty bad so I have parked my tractor until the seals are replaced-have seals ordered. I am going to try and just remove the pivot when I replace the seals. This will probably take me 2 days LOL but its worth it learning how to do it myself. One thing is I never swapped the oil in the front axle-I was wondering if this is what caused it to fail but my dealer said this is not uncommon for these types of axles and the GC. I did get 10 years out if the seals....the other thing is why put hydraulic oil in this axle? Does it have a slip clutch or pump? Why not put the heavy axle fluid?

A big thanks to those that have posted and documented this repair...this has given me the confidence to attempt the repair myself.

irvingj · May 27, 2020

The hydraulic fluid vs. gear oil has been discussed on this forum... some like to change to GP90, but Ray66 had a good discussion of how GP90 and hydraulic fluid are actually quite similar. Don't know -- I've always just used the same fluid for both the axle and the transmission per the book, but then I don't do a lot of heavy in-the-woods stuff, either -- mostly snow-blowing and lawn mowing. I do change the axle fluid when I do the transmission.

As far as the seals, there've been a few people who've had them fail, but not too many; I now have well over 900 hrs on my 2310, and so far, so good. Pretty sure there was a thread on here with pics showing how one fellow did it.

So-- now that it's finally warmed up, are your black flies as thick as they are here?? Sheesh. (The "NH State Bird," ya know....)

cdaigle430 · May 27, 2020

irvingj said:
The hydraulic fluid vs. gear oil has been discussed on this forum... some like to change to GP90, but Ray66 had a good discussion of how GP90 and hydraulic fluid are actually quite similar. Don't know -- I've always just used the same fluid for both the axle and the transmission per the book, but then I don't do a lot of heavy in-the-woods stuff, either -- mostly snow-blowing and lawn mowing. I do change the axle fluid when I do the transmission.

As far as the seals, there've been a few people who've had them fail, but not too many; I now have well over 900 hrs on my 2310, and so far, so good. Pretty sure there was a thread on here with pics showing how one fellow did it.

So-- now that it's finally warmed up, are your black flies as thick as they are here?? Sheesh. (The "NH State Bird," ya know....)

Yes and now mosquitoes and ticks LOL

cdaigle430 · Jun 1, 2020

Well what a PITA!!!! So far the part that everyone was telling me was the most difficult actually was the easiest-removing upper and lower seals. I used a seal puller while holding the hub (lower) in a vice and the upper I used a carbon gasket scraper to pry off.

To put them back on I used the old seal to hammer it back on using a 2 and 3\4 exhaust pipe adapter. The two biggest headaches was prying the hub open and removing the tire rod. I damaged the hub cover too much at the pry location so I am using JB weld to rebuild the surface for one side. I also damaged the rubber prying the tie rod off...also needed new cotter pins after.

The snap ring started out to be a nightmare-had to go and buy four different snap ring tools (the best one and the one I used was from Advanced Auto). Once I got the right tool it was easy.

I am waiting for JB weld to finish curing then its time to file level. Then I used KB Weld silicon as a gasket and its time to fill with a heavier lube.

Still have to change fuel, engine oil, hydraulic oil and air filters on top of filling all oils, greasing and cleaning oil strainer.

I didnt take pictures because I dont want you guys to make fun of me

Please, please dont leak after Im done.

MF RED in MT · Jun 1, 2020

cdaigle430 said:
Well what a PITA!!!! So far the part that everyone was telling me was the most difficult actually was the easiest-removing upper and lower seals. I used a seal puller while holding the hub (lower) in a vice and the upper I used a carbon gasket scraper to pry off.

To put them back on I used the old seal to hammer it back on using a 2 and 3\4 exhaust pipe adapter. The two biggest headaches was prying the hub open and removing the tire rod. I damaged the hub cover too much at the pry location so I am using JB weld to rebuild the surface for one side. I also damaged the rubber prying the tie rod off...also needed new cotter pins after.

The snap ring started out to be a nightmare-had to go and buy four different snap ring tools (the best one and the one I used was from Advanced Auto). Once I got the right tool it was easy.

I am waiting for JB weld to finish curing then its time to file level. Then I used KB Weld silicon as a gasket and its time to fill with a heavier lube.

Still have to change fuel, engine oil, hydraulic oil and air filters on top of filling all oils, greasing and cleaning oil strainer.

I didnt take pictures because I dont want you guys to make fun of me

Please, please dont leak after Im done.

After all that, I sure do wish "no leaks" for you.

KC

Jaylegger · Jun 2, 2020

Looks like one of those jobs I'll hire the Massey Mechanic to do a house call. Both mine are leaking and I know after heading to the hardware store multiple times for the right tool and breaking a few things in the process I'll come out ahead in the end.

cdaigle430 · Jun 2, 2020

Its not too bad...got it done...and no leaks. I got to know how my front axle works, got to know the shop manual better and learned that the parts book is very handy.
For example the bolts that hold the plate to the steel hub are m10s which require torque between 32 to 57 ft pounds. I struggled with that one..the bolts are t7s also as they have the number 7 on them.
Just be careful with the prying...the hub is steal but the plate is aluminum...I did not know that.

I also replace the oil with a much heavier 85w 140 hypoide ep gear lube. Will see how that goes for a while.