GC2610 Four Way/Signals Not Working One Side

[Glenski31]

If I were you I would take a multi meter and check for power at the switch in each setting. It sounds like the switch is suspect. measuring the current coming out of the switch would tell you that. Ed

Hi Ed,

What should the current be coming out of the switch in each setting?

Is anyone willing / able to take a video of what the lights on their GC behave like with key on and off?

Just spent another two hours on it and am getting what seems like nowhere.

Thanks
Glen

 

[irvingj]

I believe Ed was suggesting that you just check to see if you have 12V at the lights, indicating that power is getting to them.

On my 2310, the "4-ways" (really just the two Mickey Mouse lights on the roll bar) AND the turn signals -- one Mickey Mouse light stays on, the other blinks -- both have power all the time; they'll work whether the key's on or not. Guess your 2610 is wired differently?

 

[Glenski31]

I believe Ed was suggesting that you just check to see if you have 12V at the lights, indicating that power is getting to them.

On my 2310, the "4-ways" (really just the two Mickey Mouse lights on the roll bar) AND the turn signals -- one Mickey Mouse light stays on, the other blinks -- both have power all the time; they'll work whether the key's on or not. Guess your 2610 is wired differently?

I certainly have a different setup than your 2310. I have attached a photo of the wiring diagram which shows what I am dealing with. Item #27 - the multifunction switch I believe has a short in it the lights are now acting very unpredictable after my soldering attempt to reconnect a wire to the back of the switch that had corroded off and was then bypassed by the previous owner via a manual toggle switch to power the lights.

I am trying to restore this part of things back to factory wiring to eliminate any meddling the PO had done. I am assuming this switch is going to be expensive but I want to eliminate since I know there is a short in it. It is a very simple switch with spring loaded ball bearings that slide into detents in the plastic housing and all the power for everything seems to go through that swtich....

Any wiring gurus out there? I am at the point where I can't even describe what is going on with the lights. Everytime I touch that switch the lights seem to act different than they did before. Here is to hoping the switch will do the trick for me.

Glen

 

[Glenski31]

I certainly have a different setup than your 2310. I have attached a photo of the wiring diagram which shows what I am dealing with. Item #27 - the multifunction switch I believe has a short in it the lights are now acting very unpredictable after my soldering attempt to reconnect a wire to the back of the switch that had corroded off and was then bypassed by the previous owner via a manual toggle switch to power the lights.

The switch was about $45 plus a little bit of shippping once it gets to the dealer. With any luck I will have it by the middle of next week and that will eliminate the switch as a source of the problem and hopefully that is the only thing wrong.

Glen

 

[irvingj]

For $45, a new switch would be a good start.

I wonder, though, if you may have some chafed wires within the harness, which could cause the changing symptoms. I'd follow those wires and inspect carefully wherever they pass near a frame section or any tight space. Almost sounds like they might be getting pinched or chafed somewhere and making contact when they shouldn't be, either to ground or between each other. Try to separate the wires enough to see if there are any breaks in the wires' insulation.

Wiring issues can be very time consuming, but basically like following a road map. Be patient and follow those roads. Good luck!

PS-- sometimes a highlighter or a red pen can be useful in using the wiring diagram; my wiring diagram has writing all over it! :laughing:

 

[Dieseljeeper]

Try doing a voltage drop test by starting at the light that's not working by probing the wire at the light with the pos lead on your millimeter, the neg on ground, preferably the battery itself. Then just keep following the circuit back toward the power source. You can back probe the plugs by using t needles they use for sewing. You can check the ground the same way just start at the light probing the ground with the pos probe on the power source. That method saves a lot of confusion. Good luck!

 

[Glenski31]

So some further updates:

I have replaced the main power and signal switch with a brand new MF switch (#27). The old one had been bypassed with a toggle switch. So that portion of the tractor is back to factory and the problem still exists.

I am almost 100% certain that it is item #7 on the wiring diagram which seems like the brains of the flashing operations. I have already swapped 8A with 8B and these both appear to be working as there was no difference when the units were switched out with one another. I have also traced the wiring harness and all wiring still appears to be within the factory loom with no obvious chafe points.

The other thing I did was to disconnect the power plug at 17/18 (the RHS lights) and run it over to 20/21 (the LHS lights) and confirm that all 3 lights on that side get power the same as the RHS when plugged in. So between the plug and the lights on the ROPS there aren't any wiring issues it is between the 4 pin connector and item 7 flasher.

The dealer wants just shy of $200 for item #7. Does anyone have a sweet clue where to get something like this aftermarket? It is a 7-pin connector with multiple capacitors and a couple of relays. I am going to try and remove the capacitors from the circuit board tonight and test them to see if one is faulty?

I went into the local semi-truck place (Parts for Trucks) and he knew exactly what I was asking for. He said a guy had been in there a couple of years ago with 'the exact same thing' and the didn't have it. In the end the guy apparently found one on ebay. Any suggestions would be great.

Thanks again