General Questions
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MossRoad
Super Moderator
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- South Bend, Indiana (near)
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- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
I remember this project from another thread. I think the PT425 would have no trouble with this project. Hauling in the blocks and backfilling from the high side. Remember the limiting factor of the lift height. It won't dump over a wall more than about 3 feet. The BX would probably do it just as well and lift higher if you needed to dump over the top of the wall. The nice thing about the PT is that you don't have to haul all those implements around. MMM underneath (bottoms out when landscaping) FEL adds weight when mowing, same for box blade... Where the PT really shines is switching implements quickly. FEL to excavate and move material, dump the bucket, pick up the forks and move a pallet of block, drop the forks and pick up the mower to hit the yard, finish the yard, decide to do more landscaping, pick up the FEL, etc...
Also, the PT won't tear up the turf in tight turns, even when turning the wheel lock to lock at a complete stop. I think it is more manueverable than a BX and the front mount impliments like the mower are a real joy to use. You can get close to landscaping on either side of the mower and you can push it 3 feet under overhanging branches without getting all scratched up. A MMM just can't do that. Another thing to note is the PT has a rear discharge moweer that really minimizes any windrowing. In thick grass there is occasionally a small windrow on the right side. There is NO way to mount a bagger if you feel you must bag your clippings. Bagging clippings is frowned upon these days anyway and I never do it so it wasn't a problem for me.
If I had it to do over again, from what everybody says, I'd probably get bar tires instead of my turfs. They are very gentle but I could use a more aggressive bite now and then. Expecially on wet grass when excavating.
As far as re-sale value, I don't plan on selling mine. I plan on maintaining and repairing it for the next 20-30 years. It is just a pile of plate steel, heavy duty joints, an engine, pumps and hoses. There is nothing mysterious about it.
If you are really uncomfortable with doing your own repairs(should they be needed) then you should probably go with the BX provided your dealer has a good reputation and you like them. It is a BIG factor when investing so much money in a piece of equipment and you are the one that has to live wtih it.
If there's anything else you want to ask, just ask /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif We all will give you the straight talk about these machines.
Also, the PT won't tear up the turf in tight turns, even when turning the wheel lock to lock at a complete stop. I think it is more manueverable than a BX and the front mount impliments like the mower are a real joy to use. You can get close to landscaping on either side of the mower and you can push it 3 feet under overhanging branches without getting all scratched up. A MMM just can't do that. Another thing to note is the PT has a rear discharge moweer that really minimizes any windrowing. In thick grass there is occasionally a small windrow on the right side. There is NO way to mount a bagger if you feel you must bag your clippings. Bagging clippings is frowned upon these days anyway and I never do it so it wasn't a problem for me.
If I had it to do over again, from what everybody says, I'd probably get bar tires instead of my turfs. They are very gentle but I could use a more aggressive bite now and then. Expecially on wet grass when excavating.
As far as re-sale value, I don't plan on selling mine. I plan on maintaining and repairing it for the next 20-30 years. It is just a pile of plate steel, heavy duty joints, an engine, pumps and hoses. There is nothing mysterious about it.
If you are really uncomfortable with doing your own repairs(should they be needed) then you should probably go with the BX provided your dealer has a good reputation and you like them. It is a BIG factor when investing so much money in a piece of equipment and you are the one that has to live wtih it.
If there's anything else you want to ask, just ask /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif We all will give you the straight talk about these machines.
Yeah, its recycled stuff. Don't know how many of the PT'ers actually venture into the other forums. I know you do often. Sorry for the repeat.
Everything you say makes sense. Plus, it seems that the attachment list exceeeds anything that might be available for a BX.
As far as lift height of the bucket, 54" seems somewhat limited but when I think about what I'll be doing around here, it probably wouldn't be an issue. I haven't determined the exact heoght of the retaining wall but I don't think it will exceed 3 ft. As I don't want to drive on the concrete decking (there is no reinforcement of any kind - yeah, I know that is wrong and I'm ashamed I let the contractor talk me into doing it this way), I would have to backfill from the low side. Is the 3 ft figure you mention the height of the bucket in the dumped position? 54" the height in the curled position?
Although I didn't bring up resale value, thank you for addressing it. I did a quick search on e-bay and found nothing. Haven't looked anywhere else, but a previous poster said that used ones are hard to find. This might favorably influence resale prices.
Let me bring up a hypothetical situation. Let's say Power Trac goes belly-up as a business (I know they have been around for awhile, but it could happen). Are there any proprietary parts on these things that could not be be replaced with after-market items? I'm not talking implements here, but rather on the tractor itself.
Others have mentioned that the bar tires are not too rough on turf when mowing. Is that your understanding as well? If this is the case, then there would be no reason to get turf tires, would there?
When using the finish mower, how do you set a repeatable mowing height? Is it done with adjustable wheels on the deck? Does the front hydraulic assembly have a float position? Dang, the questions just keep coming.
And, finally, the issue of getting "stuck" next to a building or fence because of the articulated steering has been brought up here before. It was said that with the bucket attached, you can "crab walk" the tractor away from the obstruction. What if this happens with the mower attached. It seems unlikely to me that you could put enough down force on the mower to liberate the tractor from such a predicament. Any comments?
Again, you've been very helpful and generous with your advice and I thank you for your time. I've been warning my wife that I might be making a trip to Tazewell, VA soon to check these things out. She just shakes her head.
Everything you say makes sense. Plus, it seems that the attachment list exceeeds anything that might be available for a BX.
As far as lift height of the bucket, 54" seems somewhat limited but when I think about what I'll be doing around here, it probably wouldn't be an issue. I haven't determined the exact heoght of the retaining wall but I don't think it will exceed 3 ft. As I don't want to drive on the concrete decking (there is no reinforcement of any kind - yeah, I know that is wrong and I'm ashamed I let the contractor talk me into doing it this way), I would have to backfill from the low side. Is the 3 ft figure you mention the height of the bucket in the dumped position? 54" the height in the curled position?
Although I didn't bring up resale value, thank you for addressing it. I did a quick search on e-bay and found nothing. Haven't looked anywhere else, but a previous poster said that used ones are hard to find. This might favorably influence resale prices.
Let me bring up a hypothetical situation. Let's say Power Trac goes belly-up as a business (I know they have been around for awhile, but it could happen). Are there any proprietary parts on these things that could not be be replaced with after-market items? I'm not talking implements here, but rather on the tractor itself.
Others have mentioned that the bar tires are not too rough on turf when mowing. Is that your understanding as well? If this is the case, then there would be no reason to get turf tires, would there?
When using the finish mower, how do you set a repeatable mowing height? Is it done with adjustable wheels on the deck? Does the front hydraulic assembly have a float position? Dang, the questions just keep coming.
And, finally, the issue of getting "stuck" next to a building or fence because of the articulated steering has been brought up here before. It was said that with the bucket attached, you can "crab walk" the tractor away from the obstruction. What if this happens with the mower attached. It seems unlikely to me that you could put enough down force on the mower to liberate the tractor from such a predicament. Any comments?
Again, you've been very helpful and generous with your advice and I thank you for your time. I've been warning my wife that I might be making a trip to Tazewell, VA soon to check these things out. She just shakes her head.
davesisk
Platinum Member
Hey BMAC:
Talk to Charlie on this MB, he has a 1400 series and he has added a "front-hoe" that works pretty well. Someone else (and I can't recall who at the moment) has a "front-hoe" on a 400 series. I believe both came from Lackender Fabrications.
I have a 1418 (old model, see it here: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.ipass.net/~davesisk/tractor.htm>http://www.ipass.net/~davesisk/tractor.htm</A>), and I'm not really all that mechanical either (although I seem to be becoming more mechanical quickly /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif). However, it's simple enough to replace hoses, replace the hydraulic filter, etc., which is most of what I've had to do. One good thing about having a Briggs&Stratton gasoline engine on mine is that, if I'm totally stuck, I can carry it down to a local B&S service center and have it repaired (or even replaced without it costing an arm and a leg).
Good luck!
Dave
Talk to Charlie on this MB, he has a 1400 series and he has added a "front-hoe" that works pretty well. Someone else (and I can't recall who at the moment) has a "front-hoe" on a 400 series. I believe both came from Lackender Fabrications.
I have a 1418 (old model, see it here: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.ipass.net/~davesisk/tractor.htm>http://www.ipass.net/~davesisk/tractor.htm</A>), and I'm not really all that mechanical either (although I seem to be becoming more mechanical quickly /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif). However, it's simple enough to replace hoses, replace the hydraulic filter, etc., which is most of what I've had to do. One good thing about having a Briggs&Stratton gasoline engine on mine is that, if I'm totally stuck, I can carry it down to a local B&S service center and have it repaired (or even replaced without it costing an arm and a leg).
Good luck!
Dave
MossRoad
Super Moderator
- Joined
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- 57,522
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- South Bend, Indiana (near)
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- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
Not a problem. Keep asking. That way you can make an informed decision.
3' would be approximate in the dump position.
If power trac goes belly up the frame/body is just plate steel with very few bends. Any competent welder could patch it up( but I doubt you will break it). The engine is Kohler(425) or Robin(422) so that is a different company and that is covered by their warranty. They've been around a while too, so unless they pull an "enron" they should be here for a while too. The hydraulic cylinders can be serviced at any competent hydraulic shop, as should the pumps andhoses. We are still in the fact finding phase as to the exact make and model of the pumps and hydraulic motors on the implements, but if you look long and hard enough, you can find them on the internet /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif. There really isn't anything else on the unit except for the hydroback (did I get that right guys?) which is the linkage between the foot treadle and the variable volume pump.
The 60" mower deck that I have is adjustable by bolts for the rear wheels and a lynch pin and spacers for the front wheels. I leave mine at the same height all year. I'll lower it after the first killing frost.
Turf tires?? I got 'em and I like them, but all the folks that have bar tires like them and say they don't mark up the lawn and provide excellent traction. In the snow, I slide to the side on cross hills when plowing. you have to decide for yourself on this one, but I might lean 55 to 45 in favor of bar tires right now.
The front lift arms have power up, power down and float. The mower has a hanger that provides tilt fore and aft and a pivot that provides roll left to right independant of the tractor while the lift arms are in float. It really is amazing how it will follow the contours of the ground independant from the tractor. And the front half of the tractor can roll side to side independantly from the rear section +- 12 degrees. So it is kind of neat to see it snake along the ground and never lose tire contact.
Stuck next to a building only happend to me once and I got out of it. Charlie got stuck next to a fence on a side slope and had some problems. I could see how that could happen. The mower is pretty tough and you could probably get out of it. The nice thing about the 60" mower is that your tires never get closer than 6 inches to the fence on a straight run. You can turn the wheel all the way to the side and the rear end will only come within 2 inches of the fence as the rear wheels follow in the tracks of the front wheels.
Well, hope this helps. Ponder it for a while and, if you can, by all means drive both units before you decide. You will know which unit is right for you, your budget and your sanity /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif
3' would be approximate in the dump position.
If power trac goes belly up the frame/body is just plate steel with very few bends. Any competent welder could patch it up( but I doubt you will break it). The engine is Kohler(425) or Robin(422) so that is a different company and that is covered by their warranty. They've been around a while too, so unless they pull an "enron" they should be here for a while too. The hydraulic cylinders can be serviced at any competent hydraulic shop, as should the pumps andhoses. We are still in the fact finding phase as to the exact make and model of the pumps and hydraulic motors on the implements, but if you look long and hard enough, you can find them on the internet /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif. There really isn't anything else on the unit except for the hydroback (did I get that right guys?) which is the linkage between the foot treadle and the variable volume pump.
The 60" mower deck that I have is adjustable by bolts for the rear wheels and a lynch pin and spacers for the front wheels. I leave mine at the same height all year. I'll lower it after the first killing frost.
Turf tires?? I got 'em and I like them, but all the folks that have bar tires like them and say they don't mark up the lawn and provide excellent traction. In the snow, I slide to the side on cross hills when plowing. you have to decide for yourself on this one, but I might lean 55 to 45 in favor of bar tires right now.
The front lift arms have power up, power down and float. The mower has a hanger that provides tilt fore and aft and a pivot that provides roll left to right independant of the tractor while the lift arms are in float. It really is amazing how it will follow the contours of the ground independant from the tractor. And the front half of the tractor can roll side to side independantly from the rear section +- 12 degrees. So it is kind of neat to see it snake along the ground and never lose tire contact.
Stuck next to a building only happend to me once and I got out of it. Charlie got stuck next to a fence on a side slope and had some problems. I could see how that could happen. The mower is pretty tough and you could probably get out of it. The nice thing about the 60" mower is that your tires never get closer than 6 inches to the fence on a straight run. You can turn the wheel all the way to the side and the rear end will only come within 2 inches of the fence as the rear wheels follow in the tracks of the front wheels.
Well, hope this helps. Ponder it for a while and, if you can, by all means drive both units before you decide. You will know which unit is right for you, your budget and your sanity /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif
wasabi
Platinum Member
Bmac,
It looks like your primary questions have been answered, but I thought I would at least chime in with my limited 2445 experience.
I don't yet have a mower or a need for one, but my guess would be that you are right about the 2400 series being a bit too big to be practical as a mowing machine....but, when it comes to lifting, digging and backhoe work, I can say the 2445 shines. It is just what I wanted for the jobs I face in working on mountain acres. The higher lift is certainly a plus. Both the Fel and backhoe digging capacity are impressive.
My only slightly negative comment regarding the backhoe is that the swing (60 degrees if my memory serves me right) is a bit limiting.
It looks like your primary questions have been answered, but I thought I would at least chime in with my limited 2445 experience.
I don't yet have a mower or a need for one, but my guess would be that you are right about the 2400 series being a bit too big to be practical as a mowing machine....but, when it comes to lifting, digging and backhoe work, I can say the 2445 shines. It is just what I wanted for the jobs I face in working on mountain acres. The higher lift is certainly a plus. Both the Fel and backhoe digging capacity are impressive.
My only slightly negative comment regarding the backhoe is that the swing (60 degrees if my memory serves me right) is a bit limiting.
Charlie_Iliff
Veteran Member
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Bmac:
As DaveSisk noted, I have a Lackender hoe on my PT, which is an 1845. I have been really pleased with it, but I can't claim a lot of skill. I have a thumb on the hoe, and have used it for minor digging, but also to pick up brush and logs.
For the 425, Carpenter posted a picture a couple of months ago of his Lackender hoe, which was the prototype adaptation for the 400 series. If you search on Lackender, you can find the discussion and the photo.
I have scanned your questions and the responses from other owners, and have little to add except that figuring out what you want, looking and testing are great fun, and shouldn't be rushed. I don't hesitate to recommend Power Trac, but I do urge that you test one thoroughly before you make up your mind. A trip to Tazewell is too much fun to be missed, but as Bubenberg has often advised, don't take a credit card. You will end up with a lot more attachments than you planned.
If you buy a machine, they'll give you a course on how to maintain it. (I didn't have time, but I hear it is pretty good.) The manuals are poor, but you'll find you can figure things out pretty well. If not, you are bound to have a buddy who will help for a six-pack.
If you really have no desire to do any maintenance, the Kubota may look better to you, but I don't know of anything on a PT that a tractor mechanic for nearly any other brand would find hard to handle. You just have to find a good mechanic, which is always a bit of a problem whatever you buy.
Happy hunting.
As DaveSisk noted, I have a Lackender hoe on my PT, which is an 1845. I have been really pleased with it, but I can't claim a lot of skill. I have a thumb on the hoe, and have used it for minor digging, but also to pick up brush and logs.
For the 425, Carpenter posted a picture a couple of months ago of his Lackender hoe, which was the prototype adaptation for the 400 series. If you search on Lackender, you can find the discussion and the photo.
I have scanned your questions and the responses from other owners, and have little to add except that figuring out what you want, looking and testing are great fun, and shouldn't be rushed. I don't hesitate to recommend Power Trac, but I do urge that you test one thoroughly before you make up your mind. A trip to Tazewell is too much fun to be missed, but as Bubenberg has often advised, don't take a credit card. You will end up with a lot more attachments than you planned.
If you buy a machine, they'll give you a course on how to maintain it. (I didn't have time, but I hear it is pretty good.) The manuals are poor, but you'll find you can figure things out pretty well. If not, you are bound to have a buddy who will help for a six-pack.
If you really have no desire to do any maintenance, the Kubota may look better to you, but I don't know of anything on a PT that a tractor mechanic for nearly any other brand would find hard to handle. You just have to find a good mechanic, which is always a bit of a problem whatever you buy.
Happy hunting.
