Generator modification....

[gizmo]

You cannot simply connect the electrical outputs together even if they are running at the same speed. They must also be in exact phase (angular position). If they are even slightly out of phase they will conduct internally between each other and burn out...quick. Parallel generators MUST have independent drive systems and a synchroscope.

 

[gizmo]

However, you can drive two generators with the same power source if you do not connect the electrical outputs. You can get the power for separate loads just not one large load.

 

[txslowpoke]

My original idea was to power both gen heads by 1 power unit, use seperate.. To run/link them together would be beyond my skills. I also never thought of the side load, using jack shafts to drive them. Nor of the belt drive units available. Just want to say thanks to everyone that posted info here.

 

[Butters]

What about a more efficient muffler?

That is my question as well. If you search for "ATV stealth exhaust" you can probably get an idea how to easily add an extra muffler to the thing for less than $50 if you buy a muffler at a parts store and rig it yourself.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I have tried to quite down B&S engines and its a loosing battle. I even made a water muffler. The engine itself makes 80% of the noise, not the exhaust. Also never messed with a 318 but had a 350 out of a boat. I hooked it up to a 1 gallon fuel tank to test run it. At 900 rpm it used the gallon of fuel in about 30 minutes.

I have a 8550 Troy built gen with a B&S engine and it will run with my home load(fridge, freezer, furnace blower, well pump, tv, lights, micro, stove, ect) on 9 gallons a day... I have been without power once for 8 days straight and once for 3 days plus plenty of 1 day stints.

Get a pto genny for your tractor if you need more power and quiet. HF has a 12K unit 15K for $1000 or just live with the noise. You could sell the 318 on Ebay or Craigs List and buy a new genny.

Chris

 

[CCWKen]

CCWken, I was thinking more along the lines of a welding truck style governor. I have to research that to see if I can adapt it. I also want a overheat shutdown system, like on big rigs..kysor I blieve it is called.
BTW, CCWken what part of South Tx you from? Corpus here.

I'm about three miles outside Lytle which is about 25 miles SW of San Antonio. If it has thorns, stingers or fangs, it probably lives here too.

I can't think of the brand at the moment but I have a Sullair 160 twin-screw air compressor that uses a pulley driven governor on a 4-cyl Chevy engine. The governor controls engine speed as well as actuates a compressor intake valve. You might look into something like that. It may be similar to what's used on welders too, but I don't know.

The govenor is the gizmo above the alternator.

Ken

 

[CCWKen]

Ops. The governor doesn't really actuate the intake valve. The intake is driven by a pressure diaphram and it gives feedback to the governor. Sorry.

Forgot to mention: An overheat switch is simple. The compressor has two. One for the compressor oil and one for the engine coolant. If either overheats, it kills the engine. All you need is Normally Closed temp sensors and wire the ignition in series with the switches. In the Sullair case, the sensors are two different temp ranges.

You can use Normally Open (standard) temp sensors but you'd need to run the ignition through a NC relay. When the temp sensor is tripped, it would power the relay and pull the ignition power. It would stay off until the temp went back down. Both methods would work.

 

[skidsteer.ca]

Surplus Center use to carry those belt driven governors
Ken

 

[JoeL4330]

I am sure you considered building an enclosure ...my generac is noisy, noisy with the enclosure open but quite modest with the enclosure buttoned up ... and, recently, I installed a baffle on the exhaust vents (to redirect the exhaust and associated lp odor away from the building) and that quieted things even more.