Gentlemen, place your bets...will it work????

[Farmwithjunk]

Do a search on EBAY for "tee post puller". I've seen a bigger version of same used to pull 6" wood fence post's. It works, doesn't slip, the harder you pull the tighter it grips, and it'll simply use the lifting of the 3-point hitch to yank out your trees. Simple is good. Very easy to over-engineer an idea.

Chain method works too. I used to have a short section of chain I used for pulling post's. I put a number of 1/4" bolts w/nuts through the chain in the area where it wrapped the post. That gave a little extra "dig" to keep it from slipping.

 

[BigDogues]

The only problem with a puller like that is you have to get out of the seat all the time. I would rather go for something like this... http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/12555-tree-getter.html?highlight=TREE+GETTER I have seen several post where guys have bought or made something like this for there FELs too. But you usually have a lot better pulling strentgh with your TPH.

 

[BigDogues]

Here is another nice design... http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/92150-blade-steel-tree-grubber-knife.html

 

[cityfarma]

The only problem with a puller like that is you have to get out of the seat all the time. I would rather go for something like this... http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/12555-tree-getter.html?highlight=TREE+GETTER I have seen several post where guys have bought or made something like this for there FELs too. But you usually have a lot better pulling strentgh with your TPH.

I like to play so simpler is not necessarily better . The cylinder is powered in both directions and controlled by air solenoids. I will use switches accessible from the seat. If all else fails, I will have a go at the simpler designs. All adds up to more excuses to play!!

Cityfarma

 

[mooseye]

Me, I would move the cylinder up and use it with a grapple to hold the trunk in the V instead of as a V-clampper.

 

[bucmeister]

My thought on the design you already have would be to go back and create a set of jaws by welding some jaw material above and below your current stationary jaw and just a bit toward the moveable jaw creating slot for the moveable jaw to compress and slightly bend the trunk into. That should magnify the grip not only with the 3 contact grip but with the distortion in the wood thereby not relying just on the brute force of the cylinder pressure.

 

[cityfarma]

My thought on the design you already have would be to go back and create a set of jaws by welding some jaw material above and below your current stationary jaw and just a bit toward the moveable jaw creating slot for the moveable jaw to compress and slightly bend the trunk into. That should magnify the grip not only with the 3 contact grip but with the distortion in the wood thereby not relying just on the brute force of the cylinder pressure.

I was actually thinking the same thing. I had ground an angle on the moving blade to help it bite in but still slips up the trunk.

This is still a work ing progress. My intention was to use it to selectively pluck trees from around the trees I wanted to keep. Last time I played was just after some unseasonal heavy rain that settled the dust. I decided it was simpler in places to connect up the spring tyne harrow and rip up everything.

Cityfarma