2manyrocks
Super Member
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2007
- Messages
- 8,366
Call around to your local farmers coop, building supply or find a large road contractor to ask.
Geotextile Fabric Source
- Thread starter SnowRidge
- Start date
- Views: 6663
dirtworksequip
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jun 3, 2006
- Messages
- 1,463
- Location
- Wheeling, WV
- Tractor
- 2006 JD 3520 w/cab & 300CX loader. 1995 JD 870 w/440 loader & 8b backhoe.JD 455 w/54" mower deck.
I guess the point I was trying to make is "do it right the first time and it will save you tons and tons of stone over the next 20 plus years''
Sincerely, Dirt
Sincerely, Dirt
jdmar
Gold Member
I buy at a local drainage supply place. I have two larger drain supply places in this area and both of them have it.
I also put the geotextile down especially in "soft" area where I had to put my drive. We dug test holes and in some areas we have over 13 feet (the hole colapsed at that point) of muck soil (think peat/potting soil/etc). The textile really lasts, spreads out the force, stabilizes, and prevents rutting. It was WELL worth the pennies spent on it--keeping in mind that I have a bad base that can not be made "good."
Peter
I also put the geotextile down especially in "soft" area where I had to put my drive. We dug test holes and in some areas we have over 13 feet (the hole colapsed at that point) of muck soil (think peat/potting soil/etc). The textile really lasts, spreads out the force, stabilizes, and prevents rutting. It was WELL worth the pennies spent on it--keeping in mind that I have a bad base that can not be made "good."
Peter
This is a good example. Yes, doing it right, is going to be the best solution. Its just not always economically feasible. Anything less than that, you need the fabric, to keep your stone from going down to China.
In the end, you won't need to buy tons and tons of stone, if the fabric is there to keep it on top.
Not to mention; the added benefit of never having mud in your driveway.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
I agree with dirtworksequip, and feel that if you need fabric to keep your rock in place, your road isn't ready for rock and it will cost you allot more in the long run to maintain it then doing it right the first time. The most important part of any road is drainage. If you have a wet area that you are trying to fix with fabric, then it will always be a wet area and just a matter of time until the fabric wears out, fails and the rock starts to disapear.
More dirt is the cheapest, best way to build up a road. Digging ditches on the sides of the road for drainage is also very cost effective. Adding a culver is about $150 each, and extremly important no matter what you do if water is crossing the road.
Take another week, month or whatever is involved, and get it dry. If the road is prepaired properly, then fabric isn't needed.
As for stone, you need at least four inches of it so that it will lock together. More will be stronger, but significantly. Less then four inches and your rock will never lock together and the movement will cause it to move around. This is what causes potholes and ruts. Rock that has locked together will shed water and support any load that you can drive over it. When you dig it up, it stays together.
Never drag a box blade over the road once it's locked together, all this does is break up the rock and make it thinner. Once you get it less then four inches thick, it will start to come apart on you very quickly. When you need to fix a pothole or low area, break up the rock in that area and add new rock, then compact it.
Good luck,
Eddie
More dirt is the cheapest, best way to build up a road. Digging ditches on the sides of the road for drainage is also very cost effective. Adding a culver is about $150 each, and extremly important no matter what you do if water is crossing the road.
Take another week, month or whatever is involved, and get it dry. If the road is prepaired properly, then fabric isn't needed.
As for stone, you need at least four inches of it so that it will lock together. More will be stronger, but significantly. Less then four inches and your rock will never lock together and the movement will cause it to move around. This is what causes potholes and ruts. Rock that has locked together will shed water and support any load that you can drive over it. When you dig it up, it stays together.
Never drag a box blade over the road once it's locked together, all this does is break up the rock and make it thinner. Once you get it less then four inches thick, it will start to come apart on you very quickly. When you need to fix a pothole or low area, break up the rock in that area and add new rock, then compact it.
Good luck,
Eddie
dmccarty
Super Star Member
I have about 700 feet of driveway that is 12-13 feet wide. Fabric is under all of it. In a low spot that has the culvert there might be two feet of gravel over the fabric. Most of the rest has 4 inches of ABC. Maybe. The plan was to put down enough enough to build the house and then after the house was built to top off the driveway and make it look better.
The ABC money got spent on other things in the house.
Fully loaded dump, cement, logging, and supply trucks have been up that drive. No rutting. No damage. No pot holes. Nothing.
The only problem we have is that water gets on one section of the driveway. CAREFULLY touching the gravel has cleaned that up when needed. Once the cash is available another 10-15 loads of gravel will raise the driveway enough to keep water off the driveway.
There are places in the driveway that I bet there is not more than an inch or two of gravel. The guy doing the house site clearing and septic installation did me a "favor" by spreading the gravel to expand a turning circle. I was not real happy with what they did but it has not been a problem either. The fabric and the rock are working just perfectly. Anyone that visits drives and parks on this section of driveway.
Our soil goes from rock to a gumbo when wet. There are sections of land that I will not drive the tractor into during the winter. Once the trees stop drinking the soil fill with water. Drive the tractor over the same spot three times and the axle will be in the mud. This is on HIGH land not low land. There are low spots that I'm sure that are the same or worse but this on the highest ground for a mile or so in any direction. My neighbors add gravel every few years.
The fabric saved me lots of money on gravel, trucking fees, diesel fuel and my time. The only problem with fabric is you don't want to touch it with the tractor implements once its down. It will pull up out of the gravel. PITfanny. You have to get off the tractor, sacriledge I know, and use a shovel to get the fabric back under the gravel. Not hard but not something you want to be playing with when spending $55-75 an hour running trucks with gravel.
I use the mesh fabric. There is also a woven type. I cut mine with a utility knife but even a carbide blade dulls real quick. I lay the fabric out then put down rocks, brick, 2x4x, or whatever is handy to keep it from blowing. A local building supply company sells the fabric I buy. He specializes in outdoor supplies. If a place sells culverts they might have it or can get it.
Later,
Dan
The ABC money got spent on other things in the house.
Fully loaded dump, cement, logging, and supply trucks have been up that drive. No rutting. No damage. No pot holes. Nothing.
The only problem we have is that water gets on one section of the driveway. CAREFULLY touching the gravel has cleaned that up when needed. Once the cash is available another 10-15 loads of gravel will raise the driveway enough to keep water off the driveway.
There are places in the driveway that I bet there is not more than an inch or two of gravel. The guy doing the house site clearing and septic installation did me a "favor" by spreading the gravel to expand a turning circle. I was not real happy with what they did but it has not been a problem either. The fabric and the rock are working just perfectly. Anyone that visits drives and parks on this section of driveway.
Our soil goes from rock to a gumbo when wet. There are sections of land that I will not drive the tractor into during the winter. Once the trees stop drinking the soil fill with water. Drive the tractor over the same spot three times and the axle will be in the mud. This is on HIGH land not low land. There are low spots that I'm sure that are the same or worse but this on the highest ground for a mile or so in any direction. My neighbors add gravel every few years.
The fabric saved me lots of money on gravel, trucking fees, diesel fuel and my time. The only problem with fabric is you don't want to touch it with the tractor implements once its down. It will pull up out of the gravel. PITfanny. You have to get off the tractor, sacriledge I know, and use a shovel to get the fabric back under the gravel. Not hard but not something you want to be playing with when spending $55-75 an hour running trucks with gravel.
I use the mesh fabric. There is also a woven type. I cut mine with a utility knife but even a carbide blade dulls real quick.
I lay the fabric out then put down rocks, brick, 2x4x, or whatever is handy to keep it from blowing. A local building supply company sells the fabric I buy. He specializes in outdoor supplies. If a place sells culverts they might have it or can get it. Later,
Dan
OP
SnowRidge
Elite Member
Well, it turns out Knoxville, of all places, has its very own geotextile fabric store. That's all they sell, and business is booming. I'm picking up some 12 1/2 foot wide Propex Geotex 200ST Wednesday. The price is a buck a running foot.
Thanks to all who responded.
Thanks to all who responded.
Sorry, many of us have done this without going the long route as you both suggest, and it has worked out fine.
My drive cost me a fraction of what it would have cost to do it 'right" and after 8 years it is still just fine. I have never had to add gravel, and I have not needed to regrade it.
I have also several customers, and they are very satisfied.
dirtworksequip
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jun 3, 2006
- Messages
- 1,463
- Location
- Wheeling, WV
- Tractor
- 2006 JD 3520 w/cab & 300CX loader. 1995 JD 870 w/440 loader & 8b backhoe.JD 455 w/54" mower deck.
Eddie and I are just ''old school''........ don't pay any attention to us.
Sincerely, Dirt
Sincerely, Dirt
Kyle_in_Tex
Super Star Member
Ditto what Dan said to the tee. My ABC money bought a sickle bar. Driveway is still fine after 4 years with even concrete trucks on it. Only a few inches deep in places. Its amazing how fast you can spread $1000 worth of screened gravel with a 32HP tractor and a gallon of diesel.
