I am needing some help here. My Mahindra 4540 has no power when I turn the switch. The battery is charged at 12.54 Volts, the fuse leading to the switch is good but no indication of power when I turn the switch on. I did find the PTO safety switch was bad and replaced it but that's a neutral line break and I should have power somewhere. Any thoughts?
Getting frustrated
- Thread starter MahMan
- Start date
Roadworthy
Elite Member
Welcome to TBN. My first thought involves removing cables from the battery and cleaning battery terminals and cable ends. Reinstall and tighten securely. If you can move the connector tighten until you can't. Follow the ground lead to the frame. Clean and tighten there, too. If the fuse leading to the switch is good you should have voltage on both sides of it. Don't rely on observation, use your ohmmeter. Are you sure there's no other fuse or fusible link in line with the ignition switch?
oldnslo
Super Member
How are you checking for power? I presume you have a volt meter since state battery is 12.54 volts. If yes on volt meter are you checking terminals on the switch to see if you have power going through the switch? ignition switches do fail. Like road worthy states check your battery connections and then work your way down the line one step at a time. I.e. Power here - yes, next point in circuit, etc.
Thomas
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Welcome to TBN.
As other already said
also check all safety switches for build up debris....9 times out 10 something easy to fix.
As other already said
also check all safety switches for build up debris....9 times out 10 something easy to fix.
tradosaurus
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under warranty?
swampy6
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Did you test the battery with a load tester? I had a battery on our Rhino Yamaha test fine but under load it was bad.
Outinstickssnafu
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I agree with above.
Switches can fail and also depends on quality of switch.
12.54 is the low end of working battery voltage or could be a sign that lead ends or terminal clamp ends need cleaning. As already stated terminals and lead ends just need to be clean and battery clamps firm but IMO, not super tight - brass clamps (if not lead,) can crack and I've seen people pull so hard doing up a clamp they're getting terminal post movement. (One can see the plastic top deforming as they do so.) Many terminal posts into the battery itself forgive banging but more than a few brands are not that rugged. (Well what's on offer in within Australia.)
If you can charge the battery with a good battery charger, (preferably a smart or automatic charger) do that while servicing / checking lead connections. My area was BAD for auto electricians and DIY novices would use steel washers in silly spots like between clamping areas - I'm not kidding, it's a boneheaded thing around my parts:rolling eyes:
Switches can fail and also depends on quality of switch.
12.54 is the low end of working battery voltage or could be a sign that lead ends or terminal clamp ends need cleaning. As already stated terminals and lead ends just need to be clean and battery clamps firm but IMO, not super tight - brass clamps (if not lead,) can crack and I've seen people pull so hard doing up a clamp they're getting terminal post movement. (One can see the plastic top deforming as they do so.) Many terminal posts into the battery itself forgive banging but more than a few brands are not that rugged. (Well what's on offer in within Australia.)
If you can charge the battery with a good battery charger, (preferably a smart or automatic charger) do that while servicing / checking lead connections. My area was BAD for auto electricians and DIY novices would use steel washers in silly spots like between clamping areas - I'm not kidding, it's a boneheaded thing around my parts
:rolling eyes:
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Deflexor
New member
If your PTO is engaged it won't start.
LD1
Epic Contributor
Post is a couple weeks old and he hasn't been back. Maybe safe to assume he figured it out?
npalen
Elite Member
Needs to be a sticky message(s) on the threads encouraging OP's to report back. It would be helpful for anyone interested to know the outcomes.