Oil & Fuel Getting My "New" MF35 in Shape

[Searle]

I just purchased a MF 35 and I'm wondering what maintenace items I should be doing and what I should be looking out for. I've changed the oil and oil filter, changed the secondary fuel filter, cleaned the sediment chamber, and I'm greasing the joints (I need a few new zerks for some of them). What else should I be doing on an old tractor like this?

 

[flusher]

Check the coolant. Make sure it's 50/50 mix and that there's no oil mixed in.

Belts, hoses.

Make sure the oil pressure gauge is working properly. Dashboard gauges on these old tractors can be inaccurate. It's best to use a good dial gauge to measure the oil pressure in psi. You can connect it to the port on the engine block where the dashboard gauge is connected.

Check the temp gauge for proper operation.

I assume you have already checked the exhaust. Some smoking on startup is normal. Excessive smoking afterwards could indicate a problem (blue smoke=burning oil, white smoke=coolant leak into the cylinders, black smoke=fuel system problems).

Good luck

 

[tigger1437]

hey there
Something you might check is to take off the front grille and check the rad for blockage, dirt and debris can get into the cooling fins and block it, my brothers tractor had half the rad blocked , which caused it to overheat under load,
Spray with the garden hose to loosen it up and then gently clear it out with an air hose,
also the with the loader on it , the air filter gets neglected as it is not readily accessible,
check the hydraulic oil for contamination,
I have a mf135 diesel 1975, 2875 hrs, used with snowblwer and a hammer knife mower,, great units these MF,s
thanks
Richard from canada

 

[flusher]

hey there
Something you might check is to take off the front grille and check the rad for blockage, dirt and debris can get into the cooling fins and block it, my brothers tractor had half the rad blocked , which caused it to overheat under load,
Spray with the garden hose to loosen it up and then gently clear it out with an air hose,
also the with the loader on it , the air filter gets neglected as it is not readily accessible,
check the hydraulic oil for contamination,
I have a mf135 diesel 1975, 2875 hrs, used with snowblwer and a hammer knife mower,, great units these MF,s
thanks
Richard from canada

Yep. Forgot to mention that. I spent a day cleaning debris out of the radiator on my MF135.

Also check the thermostat. I replaced the old one on my 135 when I bought it in 2006.

 

[Searle]

Thanks for the tips everyone. I hadn't thought about cleaning up the radiator.

I'd planned on changing out hte thermostat but to get to it I need to fully open the hood which I can't do without taking off my loader. Turned a small job into a big job.

I pulled the air filter when I was changing the oil and it was a type I'm not familiar with. Metal mesh with an oil bath at the bottom. I need to go look it up and see if I need to change out the oil in it.

Exhaust looks good. I did notice an exhaust leak but it is in a joint just upstream of the muffler so not a problem.

How do I check the hydraulic fluid for contamination?

 

[tigger1437]

hey there
my mf135 has an oil bath just clean it out and refill with new oil, some models GAS ONES, have the air filter under and behind the battery, which have 2 paper/metal filters, you cant change it unless you remove the loader,
The only contamination in the hydraulic may be water, mine was leaking around the gear shift boots as they were cracked , with age, oil may look a little cloudy colour, water appears white, or it may be fine,
The loader does make it hard to do maintenance, I do not have a loader, hope this helps you
ttul
Richard

 

[Kenneth S]

I would look into a paper element air cleaner system that you could mount somewhere it's easy to access. The "oil style" air filter set setup does cost you some power.

 

[Searle]

I've noticed the past few times I've been on my tractor, raising and lowering the three point hitch is unresponsive at first and sluggish for a while after that. I've been wondering if it has something to do with the transmission fluid level but I can't find anything in the manual. There is a diptick on the side of the case and when I pull it there is fluid about 1/3 of the way up it, but there are no markings that say if that is full or low. I also don't see anywhere to add fluid. Through the dipstick? Comments?

 

[SIMassey]

I've noticed the past few times I've been on my tractor, raising and lowering the three point hitch is unresponsive at first and sluggish for a while after that. I've been wondering if it has something to do with the transmission fluid level but I can't find anything in the manual. There is a diptick on the side of the case and when I pull it there is fluid about 1/3 of the way up it, but there are no markings that say if that is full or low. I also don't see anywhere to add fluid. Through the dipstick? Comments?

Been following another thread concerning a 35 and found the trans differential oil is 80 weight mineral oil. Could lower winter temperature be the cause

 

[tigger1437]

hey there
there should be lines on the dipstick, bottom line would be ADD and the top one is full,
you add oil in a plug which is to the left of the gear shift on the tranny, use TDH oil,for tractors etc
In the past , in the winter mine was slow due to water in the oil and it would freeze up some , till the tractor warmed up
Yes the cold does affect them, only till the tractor is warmed up though
water was getting in around the rubber boots on the 2 gear shifts, I just replaced them and changed the oil,, it went a milky color, and no problems since,
hope this helps you
Richard