Getting power to my shed...good or bad plan?

[gregfender]

hmm, i didnt get that thought from this post. but if your right, than your right. I couldnt imagine a separate supply just for a shed though.

I'm too far to pull power from the house so I will have to be adding a separate box. I wish this wasn't the case, but its what I gotta work with.

 

[gregfender]

is there a transformer within 20 feet of this new proposed panel?

Just cause theres a pole doesnt mean there is a transformer. Im not sure if you have already addressed this issue. Im with a coop also, and a new transformer runs the member $1,800.00. As for the pole, wait to talk with electrician, many different areas require a set height and width...and type of pole to mount panels on.

The pole they will be splitting from has a transformer on it. When we built our house last year, they set a new pole, added a transformer, and buried the line 100' to the house at no charge. I was sort of shocked but I suppose when they have the service locked in, they figure they will recoup the cost. I love my co-op!

 

[dstig1]

If the use is only going to be occasional, perhaps a small generator makes more sense? Give you other flexibility too, though connecting to the grid is nice in that it is always there without any hassles (except when trouble hits...when you might appreciate a genny...)

 

[MarkV]

Not sure with your co-op but a separate meter normally means a minimum monthly fee regardless of usage. I think our monthly minimum is around $30 here. Could get expensive to run that grinder a few times a year.

MarkV

 

[Army grunt]

the ,monthly charge will hurt. Maybe you should give a Small generator a look-see
Army Grunt

 

[flusher]

I am having a carport shed (18x21) delivered to my property for my tractor and a couple of implements. I want to have power at the shed for running pressure washer, grinder, etc. when I need to work on things.

I don't particularly want to wire the shed, but I was thinking of putting in a 16' (4' sunk in concrete) 6x6 post next to the entrance and mounting an outdoor 4 outlet power box with a switch for running a flood light up the post.

The power company says as long as the building inspector signs off they can run power out to it sort of like a pigtail connection for a camper.

Has anyone done something like this and how did it work out for you?
I just want power available so I can work in the shade and the dry.

thanks!

I have power running all over my 10 acre place. I set the pole on my property. PG&E ran the 220V/200 amps service across the road from their nearest transformer to my pole (where the main disconnect and meter is located). My electrician ran about 350 ft of cable in conduit to an outdoor weatherproof circuit breaker distribution panel located about 75 feet from the house. From that panel I ran 220V/100 amp service to my shop (about 200 ft) and 110V/30 amp service to three small sheds (100-300 ft runs). All cable was run underground. The 220V service is run in conduit. The 110V service is run in direct burial cable.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Boy, if you just built the house a year ago your electrician did you no favors.:confused2:

He or she should have discussed with you future uses and set up your panel accordingly along with some external runs or at a min some conduit runs.

My electrician suggested and I did 4 outlets and 4 lights in the crawl space, a RV plug on the outside of the barn, outside outlets along with some on small 4x4 post in 2 of the flower beds, a dedicated circuit for a pool pump with a 30' coil of wire under the deck, a dedicated circuit with a 30' coil of wire for a future hot tub which I did install, and a 50 amp twist lock hook up and panel whole house/panel transfer switch for generator hook up. It was not much extra money, maybe $600 and well worth it.

Chris

 

[beeforty]

Are you going 20' from their pole? Or are you adding 20' from your box. I would consider going under ground to a pedestal mounted box that is not necessarily attached to your building. You can have a exterior box with breaker, etc in service when you are ready to put up your building so you will have power from the start. They will usually turn on power that goes to a box on a pedestal. Then you can build next to it if you want to:thumbsup:

 

[gregfender]

Boy, if you just built the house a year ago your electrician did you no favors.:confused2:

He or she should have discussed with you future uses and set up your panel accordingly along with some external runs or at a min some conduit runs.

My electrician suggested and I did 4 outlets and 4 lights in the crawl space, a RV plug on the outside of the barn, outside outlets along with some on small 4x4 post in 2 of the flower beds, a dedicated circuit for a pool pump with a 30' coil of wire under the deck, a dedicated circuit with a 30' coil of wire for a future hot tub which I did install, and a 50 amp twist lock hook up and panel whole house/panel transfer switch for generator hook up. It was not much extra money, maybe $600 and well worth it.

Chris

We had no idea when we built that we would clear this spot and put the shed on it. It is actually across the creek and away from the house but connected to the front of our long drive. I like the idea of permanent power there in case I eventually put a bigger shop adjacent to the shed.

 

[lostcause]

Not sure with your co-op but a separate meter normally means a minimum monthly fee regardless of usage. I think our monthly minimum is around $30 here. Could get expensive to run that grinder a few times a year.

MarkV

the ,monthly charge will hurt. Maybe you should give a Small generator a look-see
Army Grunt

for anyone considering the separate meter but worried about the extra cost, do some specific asking with your power provider. the one here now offers a separate meter on your property, specifically for garages. they combine the two electrical amounts drawn, so you don't have to pay two minimum charges. i'm sure that not every place does this, but it pays to ask, and then ask again, because policies change. what they wouldn't allow last year may be allowable this year.