Getting rid of a lawn

   / Getting rid of a lawn #11  
For a riding ring I used the scarifiers on the box blade to tear up the grass and top soil. Then used the box blade to scrape about 10 foot long sections into a long pile. The FEL moved this to fill in holes in the pasture. Like preseeded soil. It was dry so the 600 BB was no problem.
 
   / Getting rid of a lawn #12  
I just can't understand the people who are proposing dumping chemical poisons "roundup etc." on your land when tilling willing do the job and not cause cancer etc. Easy ain't always best. Work with nature and help us all live a long heathy life.
 
   / Getting rid of a lawn #13  
Botabill said:
I just can't understand the people who are proposing dumping chemical poisons "roundup etc." on your land when tilling willing do the job and not cause cancer etc. Easy ain't always best. Work with nature and help us all live a long heathy life.
************
Also there's just a plumb lazy way. Cover the area with black plastic, weight it down and don't look at it for 4-6 weeks. Dead grass, dry roots, no chemistry, no diesel (no fun), and you can even use the plastic in strips for mulch. 'Course it doesn't look good while you're waiting.....
Jim
 
   / Getting rid of a lawn #14  
I usually use a nine iron! :D Why did they make the big grin GREEN?
Not fair.
 
   / Getting rid of a lawn #15  
Just thought of another way to get rid of a lawn! Sell the house! ;)
 
   / Getting rid of a lawn #16  
Make it complicated or keep it simple.

Just till it several times and then once a week or so for a month. The vetable matter in the sod will self compost adding to the soil quality.

The trouble you will have is dormant grass seeds germinating. Herbicides do not solve this problem. Neither will removing the sod as some will be left behind. Tilling every two weeks or so will eliminate this problem. The sod is most likely growing in the best portion of your soil.

Worked up sod may not live up to your garden expectations the first year or so. After that everything gets better.
 
   / Getting rid of a lawn #17  
Trahere said:
I usually use a nine iron! :D Why did they make the big grin GREEN?
Not fair.

How about this? OK needs work but I don;t have time!!
61408d1158938008-getting-rid-lawn-obiggrin.jpg
 

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   / Getting rid of a lawn
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Different views from different pews. Thanks to all, though. I can't see dumping chemicals (Roundup) into food I'm going to eat. (Besides, I don't own any Monsanto stock.) So I'm gonna till, till, till, and see what happens.
My B7800 and implements arrived today. I believe I am deeply in love and probably will not recover. I am looking into the seven-and-a-half acre wilderness beyond the lawn and humming "When Johnny comes marching home again, hurrah, hurraaaaaaah." My diesel and I will stand together.
 
   / Getting rid of a lawn #20  
Botabill said:
I just can't understand the people who are proposing dumping chemical poisons "roundup etc." on your land when tilling willing do the job and not cause cancer etc. Easy ain't always best. Work with nature and help us all live a long heathy life.
Causes cancer, huh? Alrighty then. Quote from the MSDS sheet: "current 2,4-d lifetime feeding studies in rats and mice did not show carcinogenic effects and a recent World Health Organization (WHO) review of 2,4-D toxicology has concluded that 2,4-D is not a carcinogen." Do you have some information to the contrary? Roundup, et al is glycophosphate. It is absorbed through the leaves of living plants and blocks some enzyme or another from doing it's little enzyme thing and the plant dies. It does nothing if sprayed on roots, doesn't hurt trees if sprayed on the trunk. I've done the grass to seedbed thing a few times a few different ways. Simply tilling it works, but works very slowly. The first tilling cuts the grass into chunks which then float around in/on the tilled dirt. It takes a few weeks/months for all of the pieces to break up and die. Putting roundup on the grass and letting it die for a week or two, then close cropping with a lawn mower, then tilling was much easier. Letting it sit with the roundup on (note-if you roundup, let it sit till you see the plant die; if you spray then cut the plant's green off, it never has a chance to be absorbed into the roots) till the whole shebang turned brown made sure the roots were dead, and the tiller broke them up much more easily, as well as not wrapping them around the tines and shaft nearly as much.

Note for accuracy: That MSDS is from LV400 2,4-D, a roundup clone, not roundup itself.
 

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