Glad I found this place!

[Dmace]

Post Script from the Dodge site itself. 2007 1500 Ram Quad Cab 4x4 has a towing capacity of 4,150 for the short bed and 6,850 for the long bed.
See it here:
Dodge - Vehicle Lineup

If we are using towing numbers from other trucks with the towing package, you should use the Ram numbers with the tow package too, which is 8500 (6.5' bed) / 8300 (8' bed). This is for an 07 Ram 1500 4x4 Quad Cab SLT. GCWR is 14,000.

 

[IslandTractor]

One thing I can say is that the CK20HST feels a little light when using the backhoe. The backhoe has more than enough power to move the tractor around when digging up stumps.

How do you spell "BigFoot"? Do a search. Little Tractor has them in stock. Great solution.

However, that said, the CK20 is hardly a lightweight, especially with loaded tires. I don't know of any other 21hp tractor on the market that is heavier and some (Kubota7510) are lighter by almost 500lbs. Being dragged around by a backhoe says more about the backhoe's power and digging technique.

 

[swampvol]

Stupid question....

but what makes the Kioti heavier than their 20-30 hp counterparts?

Are they just on a larger frame?

 

[kentrodngun]

If we are using towing numbers from other trucks with the towing package, you should use the Ram numbers with the tow package too, which is 8500 (6.5' bed) / 8300 (8' bed). This is for an 07 Ram 1500 4x4 Quad Cab SLT. GCWR is 14,000.

Agreed, but those higher figures are not attained by just the addition of the towing option. You get the really big numbers by adding the diesel engine and optional rear end. It doesn't specify that on Dodge's web-site, but it's pretty clear in the 2001 specs chart I attached earlier. Chrysler wouldn't dare mislead us in their ads, would they ?

 

[swampvol]

Kent, those are for the '07 1500 gasser, which is less than the '03-'05 for whatever reason. The diesel is not an option in the 1/2 ton...yet.


Anyway, whats up with the ck weight????

 

[Jaybr]

Anyway, whats up with the ck weight????

Looks like chassis size to me, the CK is much closer to a Kuboto L series in dimensions than the smaller, lighter B series.

That's one of the things I'm concerned about, smaller tractor will maneuver better through the woods at my place, would also be easier on the lawn. What I'd really like is 30hp in a CK20 chassis.

 

[swampvol]

What I'd really like is 30hp in a CK20 chassis.

Get the ck20 and add a bullydog exhaust and chip.

 

[swampvol]

Seriously, check out the MF GC2300...

 

[Greg - Kioti CK20 TLB]

How do you spell "BigFoot"? Do a search. Little Tractor has them in stock. Great solution.

However, that said, the CK20 is hardly a lightweight, especially with loaded tires. I don't know of any other 21hp tractor on the market that is heavier and some (Kubota7510) are lighter by almost 500lbs. Being dragged around by a backhoe says more about the backhoe's power and digging technique.

Digging technique must be a nice way of saying "operator doesn't know what the heck he's doing" I'll forgive you because I admit to not knowing how to use it!

I have no problem with digging regular holes or small stumps but sometimes I grab hold of a strong root that doesn't want to budge. A little extra weight might come in handy. I agree that I need a set of the feet for the stabilizer pads, I have some 4" c-channel I plan on using to fabricate a set of my own.

I guess I was trying to say I have a little bit of "big brother envy" when comparing the CK20 to the CK25/CK30. I'm glad I went with the CK20 because bigger tractor = bigger trails = more trees get cut down on my small property. But the CK30 is a really nice rig if you have a big enough piece of property.

 

[IslandTractor]

Digging technique must be a nice way of saying "operator doesn't know what the heck he's doing" I'll forgive you because I admit to not knowing how to use it!.

One of the nice things about TBN is that new newbies show up all the time which promotes the rest of us.

I spent the first several weeks of my own novice period with my BH dragging the tractor all over the place. I finally learned that it is best to minimize the motions that pull the tractor back and focus on curling the bucket when it was braced against the ground so the bucket is kinda pinned to the ground and you are not exerting so much force to drag the tractor. A bit hard to explain in words. An example would be digging out a stump...When I started I would be digging around it then trying to pull the roots or stump out with a motion that pulls it towards the tractor. Invariably that drags the tractor into the stump. Instead, I now dig around the stump until I can get the bucket teeth under a big side root and instead of pulling towards the tractor, I use the bucket curl to pop the root upwards. That typically breaks the root and I repeat the process on the other side(s). I'll give the stump itself a tentative pull every once in a while to see how loose it is. When I see that it wiggles I will then manuver the bucket underneath it and finish it off with the same bucket curl. That way the BH bucket is levering itself against the ground under the stump rather than pulling on the tractor. Basically it is better to use the curl function than the BH arm to do work. Use the arm just to position the bucket.

The other thing to change is to add the BigFoot (or similar) stabilizers which keep you from sliding pretty well too. However, don't be tempted to rely solely on the stabilzers. They are reasonably tough but are really intended to provide leveling and side to side stability. At least one person on this forum managed to bend them presumably by having them well planted while dragging the tractor towards the bucket.