Glass installation Help?

[Nuru]

Hello, for anyone who has installed windsheilds in cars or windows in tractors!

I have removed all of the glass from the shattered front lower window in my Cab. I have removed some of the previous sealant, but i suddenly have a few questions before i open the new sealant tube and goo away:

How much of the old adhesive should I remove - all, some, most? See status in pics below.

Do I remove in layers or do I remove in strips? Strips does not seem to be correct as that requires removing paint and repainting?

Does it have to be uniformly even, or generally even?


Any help would be appreciated

Shouldn't the new sealant (Dow Taseal U-418 Quick Cure Primerless to glass Adhesive) stick to the old sealant?

 

[dieselram]

How did you do that NURU?

 

[ray66v]

I can't count how many times I have done similar repairs.

If you heat a narrow putty knife, (1 inch), with a propane torch for a few seconds it will cut through the urethane adhesive like butter. Remove as much of the urethane as possible, but do not go down to the point the you are scraping / scratching paint. Reheat the knife as necessary. Wear gloves hot adhesive burns.

In areas where you already have scratched the paint, you can wipe some urethane over them, if they do not show. You will have to brush some paint on them before reinstalling the glass if they will show after the glass is in.

Buy a caulking tube of fast setting urethane at an auto parts store carefully apply a neat, thick bead right over the old adhesive. this will require a good sized hole cut on the end of the tube. Carefully push the new glass into the urethane. Add some masking tape on the top and sides to hold the glass while the urethane sets, (about an hour or so). The product you have should be the same thing.

Cautions: Do not get urethane on your hands, does not come off completely. Latex gloves are a real good idea. Most oil based solvents will soften and remove undried urethane. Mineral spirits, or thinners all can be used to clean up. Be careful no to get urethane on paint or interior, use some masking tape to protect these if your not confident of your ability. If urethane gets on glass where you don't want it, you can remove it with a single edge razor blade after it dries. Do not close door hard for at least 4 hours or you could "blow the seal" and have a leak.


30 years in the auto body business.

 

[Nuru]

How did you do that NURU?

Weel, it is called taking the loader off on a slightly uneven surface (inside shed/Detached Garage), and the loader arms just barely touched the gladd - missed the rubber bumper and pop!

 

[Nuru]

If you heat a narrow putty knife, (1 inch), with a propane torch for a few seconds it will cut through the urethane adhesive like butter. Remove as much of the urethane as possible, but do not go down to the point the you are scraping / scratching paint. Reheat the knife as necessary. Wear gloves hot adhesive burns.

Buy a caulking tube of fast setting urethane at an auto parts store carefully apply a neat, thick bead right over the old adhesive. this will require a good sized hole cut on the end of the tube. Carefully push the new glass into the urethane. Add some masking tape on the top and sides to hold the glass while the urethane sets, (about an hour or so).

Cautions: Do not get urethane on your hands, does not come off completely. Latex gloves are a real good idea. Most oil based solvents will soften and remove undried urethane. Mineral spirits, or thinners all can be used to clean up. Be careful no to get urethane on paint or interior, use some masking tape to protect these if your not confident of your ability. If urethane gets on glass where you don't want it, you can remove it with a single edge razor blade after it dries. Do not close door hard for at least 4 hours or you could "blow the seal" and have a leak.


30 years in the auto body business.

Ray66v, thanks for the tip about the urethane - did not know that I definitely was going to tape and I have heard the stuff I am gonna use (BETASEAL U-418 Quick Cure Primerless to Auto Glass adhesive), spreads like crazy.

Ray66v; I have a few paint nicks but they are like scratches and none are more than 1/2 in in length and there are not too many of them. Should I go for it or go get the primer and dab and spot it where I see metal? What is the risk if i leave them and just apply the adhesive?

 

[Ductape]

Nuru....... remember, a properly installed windscreen is critical to your airbags deploying correctly in a crash.

 

[Nuru]

Nuru....... remember, a properly installed windscreen is critical to your airbags deploying correctly in a crash.

Yeah but I did not get the airbag seat option!

 

[ray66v]

Ray66v; I have a few paint nicks but they are like scratches and none are more than 1/2 in in length and there are not too many of them. Should I go for it or go get the primer and dab and spot it where I see metal? What is the risk if i leave them and just apply the adhesive?

Either cover them with a thin coat of the adhesive, or brush a coat of paint over them. Primer only is not a good choice. Primer is more porous than paint, and will not protect as well on its own. Brushing neatly with some paint will be fine for this, there is no need to get all worried about putting primer first, on a small spot it won't make any difference. As long as you cover them with either, you will be fine. I spent my whole career in the same location, if these fixes did not work, It would have been very clear.

 

[ray66v]

(BETASEAL U-418 Quick Cure Primerless to Auto Glass adhesive), spreads like crazy.

This has me puzzled, "spreads like crazy". Why would you want to spread it? Is it not in a chalking cartridge?

 

[Nuru]

Either cover them with a thin coat of the adhesive, or brush a coat of paint over them. Primer only is not a good choice. Primer is more porous than paint, and will not protect as well on its own. Brushing neatly with some paint will be fine for this, there is no need to get all worried about putting primer first, on a small spot it won't make any difference. As long as you cover them with either, you will be fine. I spent my whole career in the same location, if these fixes did not work, It would have been very clear.

Thanks that was what I was thinking. i will spray some Deere black paint on a rag and dab it on the scratches and let dry, then tape along the edges of the Painted portion of the glass to catch the overage of the adhesive. Thansk a bunch, I will post pics when I am done!

 

[ray66v]

Better to spray some paint in a can, and brush the scratches with a small brush a few times. That will give you a good layer.

If you make a nice "bead" of adhesive, you will have no clean up.

 

[nmu98]

On the adhesive. I find it best to cut a V in the caulk tube end. That way you can hold it closer to the metal and get a VERY even and nice looking bead when its done. If you put more in some places and less in others it will show.

Looking at this Nuru, you might want to put more of it tword the inside? You can clean it up AFTER it dries withs a razor blade.

Woth all the ideas in this post, you should be good to go. Dont rush! Do it right!

I am looking for the hoarse mat to put next to my glass already! That does not look fun.

 

[Rara Avis]

Weel, it is called taking the loader off on a slightly uneven surface (inside shed/Detached Garage), and the loader arms just barely touched the gladd - missed the rubber bumper and pop!

You are the poster child for OPEN STATION TRACTORS...

No glass to break...

 

[nmu98]

You are the poster child for OPEN STATION TRACTORS...

No glass to break...

Yup, no glass, no AC, No Heat, No Hepa Filter, No radio, No Comfy Seat, No windshied Wipers, ....... None of that stuff.....

 

[Nuru]

You are the poster child for OPEN STATION TRACTORS...

No glass to break...

Stop laughing Paul. LOL!

Well, at least this did not stop me from mowing at 96 degrees, a week or two ago!

 

[Nuru]

Ok, took all the advice and here is the results I also looked at what the factory did too and copied some of what I saw they did too. so it looks pretty good.

 

[Nuru]

Now to get the Horsemat

Whew, this took longer than U thought it would as the rain interrupted m,e for about 2.5 hours.

Thanks to everyone for all their inputs, recommendations, jokes, wishes!

 

[Nuru]

On the adhesive. I find it best to cut a V in the caulk tube end. That way you can hold it closer to the metal and get a VERY even and nice looking bead when its done. If you put more in some places and less in others it will show.

Looking at this Nuru, you might want to put more of it tword the inside? You can clean it up AFTER it dries withs a razor blade.

Woth all the ideas in this post, you should be good to go. Dont rush! Do it right!

I am looking for the hoarse mat to put next to my glass already! That does not look fun.

it was okay, but it with the rasin intervention took so long that I did not get to a couple of other chores!

 

[ray66v]

On the adhesive. I find it best to cut a V in the caulk tube end. That way you can hold it closer to the metal and get a VERY even and nice looking bead when its done. If you put more in some places and less in others it will show.

Yes, I do this if the space between the metal and the glass is more than 1/4". It looked like that was not the case. It takes some practice to use the v notch, and I did not want to confuse him more than i already did.

This size glass is a pretty easy job after you do a few. The trick is to not damage the painted areas removing the old urethane. Then, you don't have to do all that "doctoring".

 

[Spudland_Dave]

You are the poster child for OPEN STATION TRACTORS...

Actually, I think he's the poster child for NEVER Talking the FEL Off