Going back to dealer!

[hunt4570]

As bx25jim says.

On my B3350, moving the joystick to the right "normally", the loader dumps and with more weight can dump even faster depending on amount of stick movement within this first range - this is the "regen" range, or as the manual calls it, "R1" - over a detent beyond R1, is R2. There is no down force in R1 other than gravity and the weight of the bucket. Amount of weight and stick position controls dump speed. When using the front loader, this is all seamless as far as the operator is concerned, fast and efficient with a faster dump that would be available if powering the dump with hydraulics (with power down, there's also the cylinder unequal displacement issue as the piston rod takes up volume on one side, so a simple power dump with no regen, tends to create an air bubble on the cylinder's opposite side and this creates flop - that problem goes away with regen).

So R1 regen is the normal op mode and it's easy to forget there's an R2 mode over the detent. R2 gives you power un-curl. I run into this when lifting the front end a bit for stabilizing the backhoe on uneven terrain when the loader arms are full down and that's not enough height. The natural reaction is to uncurl the bucket a bit more and there ain't no power there. Oops, further over to R2 and the front wheels come up.

There is a caveat. Regen applies pressure, up to relief valve setting, to both sides of the curl cylinder at the same time. When using curl loader ports for other purposes, say a hydraulic motor to turn a front mounted snowblower chute, it is important to quickly move the lever through R1 over into the R2 range so as to minimize the chance of blowing seals in the hydraulic motor while in R1.

Thats all well and good on the dump side, but does nothing for me if I'm trying to pry something out of the ground!

 

[boggen]

"from soundguy" One thought, blown cyl packing.

Leave lift hose in, remove dump hose, pressurize lift, see if oil blows out dump.

thinking it out load of soundguy last sentence above....

fully extend the hyd cylinders for the bucket.
--nearest to the rod portion of the hyd cyinders. disconnect that hose (remove hose / quick connect)
--try to extend the hyd cylinders more (pressure relief most likely will kick in). hold it there for a couple seconds.
--if a seal is bad, and trying to still fully extend cylinders, leakage should get by the seals and blow out of the hose.
--reconnect everything...
--you will need to fully extend and fully contract the bucket cylinders a few times, to clear them of majority of all the air. then just normal use of FEL will help clear out any little bit of air in the hyd cylinders. until majorty if not all the air is out. the bucket / FEL arms may have some bounce to them.

repeat above but opposite ends of cylinder checking...

--fully contract the cylinders.
--disconnect hose furthest away from the (rod end of the hyd cylinders) (no quick connect on hose)
--try and contract the cylinders. if a seal is bad in the hyd cylinders, you should get oil coming out. ((no oil = good to go most likely))
--reconnect everything....
--you will need to fully extend and fully contract the bucket cylinders a few times, to clear them of majority of all the air. then just normal use of FEL will help clear out any little bit of air in the hyd cylinders. until majority if not all the air is out. the bucket / FEL arms may have some bounce to them.

goal of above, each rod inside the hyd cylinder has some "seals" and many times there is a large nut, that holds them in place. some times this nut has came loose on folks. and it might be letting seals do there job. other times the seals just go bad. some times the rod gets bent and the seals end getting damaged as well. and the goal of the test. is to see if seals hold when tractor is on, and using the joystick to actually put a force on things to test the seals out.

if you had a pressure gauge and a quick connect hose for it. this would be easier and less messy to check. a dealer more likely already has this.

 

[bumperm]

Thats all well and good on the dump side, but does nothing for me if I'm trying to pry something out of the ground!

For prying something out of the ground with the bucket, curl works the same in both R1 or R2. Regen in R1 affects only the down force of the uncurl or dump. Now it well could be that you want downforce to get under a rock or some such, then take the lever full over (if regen is the first range) past regen into R2.

 

[hunt4570]

For prying something out of the ground with the bucket, curl works the same in both R1 or R2. Regen in R1 affects only the down force of the uncurl or dump. Now it well could be that you want downforce to get under a rock or some such, then take the lever full over (if regen is the first range) past regen into R2.

There is only one position for curl.. no R1 & R2.. , only dump has the second position.

 

[hunt4570]

Ok, played with it enough with no changes...

Off to the dealer it goes..

 

[gwstang]

Oh man! That is one sad sad picture!

 

[hunt4570]

Oh man! That is one sad sad picture!

Yes it is!!!

They promised they'd have it back early in the week... man I hope so!!

 

[hunt4570]

Ok, got this guy back a couple days ago. They went through the hydraulic system, adjusted the 3 point controls, checked for any leaking cylinders and such, and set the pressure up. Pressure was at the lower end of the specs and they bumped it up to the max.

Still no joy! Better but not "right" in my opinion! Was talking with the dealership guy and he mentioned my loader bucket... its an old rusty, old style bucket that had the QD welded on the back.. kind of a farm style conversion to work. He asked me to measure the distance from the leading edge of the bucket to the mounting plate surface... I was at just about 30 inches. He said the stock bucket was 20 inches, that makes mine and increase of about 33%! He's thinking that is the problem with the leverage on my loader.

He says a new bucket is $781 out the door.. ouch! I told him I was worried about spending that much $$ and it not fixing the problem. He said I could come get the bucket and take it home to try, if it doesn't work... take it back.. wow, that's cool. Looks like a new bucket is in my future.

Thoughts? Simple geometry maybe?

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

Ok, got this guy back a couple days ago. They went through the hydraulic system, adjusted the 3 point controls, checked for any leaking cylinders and such, and set the pressure up. Pressure was at the lower end of the specs and they bumped it up to the max.

Still no joy! Better but not "right" in my opinion! Was talking with the dealership guy and he mentioned my loader bucket... its an old rusty, old style bucket that had the QD welded on the back.. kind of a farm style conversion to work. He asked me to measure the distance from the leading edge of the bucket to the mounting plate surface... I was at just about 30 inches. He said the stock bucket was 20 inches, that makes mine and increase of about 33%! He's thinking that is the problem with the leverage on my loader.

He says a new bucket is $781 out the door.. ouch! I told him I was worried about spending that much $$ and it not fixing the problem. He said I could come get the bucket and take it home to try, if it doesn't work... take it back.. wow, that's cool. Looks like a new bucket is in my future.

Thoughts? Simple geometry maybe?

And that is why everyone harps over the importance of a good dealer!

 

[hunt4570]

And that is why everyone harps over the importance of a good dealer!

Yeah, little dealer in a little bitty town about 25 miles from here. I've no trailer so it cost me $150 for pickup and delivery, but the rest of the bill was only another $150 so I didn't think it was too bad!

Don't really want to spend that kind of money on a bucket, but with the option of taking it back if it doesn't fix the problem is HUGE!!! To spend that kind of money on a bucket and still have the problem would really hurt!