Going to try swapping my lift arms left-for-right…

   / Going to try swapping my lift arms left-for-right… #1  

KilroyJC

Elite Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2022
Messages
2,928
Location
Appalachia
Tractor
1962 Case 430, 1995 Craftsman Yard Tractor/mower, 1949 South Bend 9A Lathe, WoodMizer Lx55 sawmill, Kubota KX033-4 Mini-Excavator
1962 Case 430

The lift arms are somewhat splayed, and so the ends are just a wee bit wide for hooking up without having to pull them together with a ratchet tie-down and some “easing” with a ball-pein to hook up attachments, which pretty much defeats the whole idea of the Eagle Claw “QUICK” Connect system.

I would rather have the arms compressing against the large solid bearing surfaces of the implement body itself, rather than forcing outward against the pins (I launched one into the woods hooking up the disc Harry - I am thankful it didn’t hit me!)

and no, I didn’t take a measurement yet - I will to that as a before-and-after when I actually do the work and report back.

But I do appreciate any comments, suggestions, advice, or related experiences you may care to share!
 
   / Going to try swapping my lift arms left-for-right…
  • Thread Starter
#2  
Update:

Saturday, I dropped one arm. Pulled the lift arm pin, drove our the roll pin, and relatively easily drove out the main pin without any trouble.
Started on the other side… Pulled the lift arm pin, drove out the roll pin, and the other pin WON’T BUDGE.

yesterday, I beat on it more, without success.

Today, I applied gentle heat and PB Blaster, and it WON’T BUDGE.

Either later or tomorrow, I will be off to the tool store to get a two-jaw puller or ball-joint press -type tool and see if adding that to the heat/penetrant combo.

I really do not want to have to remove the rear tire. . .
 
   / Going to try swapping my lift arms left-for-right…
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Update:

yesterday I put a two-jaw puller on the pin and cranked down.
no effect
cranked it a little harder an hit the two bases with ye olde ball pein.

no effect.

cranked it again a little more, sprayed more PB blaster, and am letting it sit under pressure for a bit. Then I will try heating with the torch while under pressure and trying the hammer again.

otherwise I will just have to unbolt the bases and take them to a shop to press the pin out…

i should have know there would be a problem when the first one went so easy!
 
   / Going to try swapping my lift arms left-for-right…
  • Thread Starter
#4  
I just realized I will also have to swap the latching hardware from side-to-side as well. . . It won’t work if it is pressed up against the implement frame!
 
   / Going to try swapping my lift arms left-for-right… #5  
Pictures please (y).
 
   / Going to try swapping my lift arms left-for-right…
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Ok, I guess I have to bring my iPad with me to the shed. . .
 
   / Going to try swapping my lift arms left-for-right…
  • Thread Starter
#7  
No, I didn’t take any pictures…

updates:

I decided to unbolt one of the shaft stanchions and got the arm off. I swapped them, and the spread was even worse!

with the stanchion off, it was much easier to press out the shaft.

I took the arms to a machinist and asked about using a press to straighten them. Machinist declined, saying that the stress on the tubular portion would likely collapse it, and even if it didn’t, it would still be weakened. I either have to have the shaft ends cut off and re-welded for the proper apacing while leaving the bend in the arms, or rebuiltd them entirely.

but, what I think I am really going to do is put the arms in a box, label the box clearly, put the box under the workbench, and replace the arms with traditional ball-end arms and forego the Eagle entirely for work.

Other than the removal of factory original parts, any thoughts yea/nay on this plan?

thank you!
 
   / Going to try swapping my lift arms left-for-right…
  • Thread Starter
#8  
   / Going to try swapping my lift arms left-for-right… #9  
Maybe put them back on, pull them together to connect a quick hitch, then never remove it again.



Bruce
 
   / Going to try swapping my lift arms left-for-right…
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Maybe put them back on, pull them together to connect a quick hitch, then never remove it again.



Bruce
For what I spend on the quick-hitch I might as well replace the arms and be done with it. $52 per arm plus shipping is worth it.
 
   / Going to try swapping my lift arms left-for-right…
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Ok, gonna catch up, with PHOTOS!

First two photos are the two arms on one pin for alignment, and the folding ruler is set at 90 degrees.

one arm has a piece of electrical tape for differentiation for the left-right placement. You can see why swapping the arms didn’t work, since they were both bent in the same direction, but unequally (and I don’t get THAT unless a pin slipped out in the process…).
 

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   / Going to try swapping my lift arms left-for-right…
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Here it is with two universal replacement arms. The original shafts are 3/4, the balls are 7/8, so I made bushings out of 3/4 copper pipe which fit snuggly in the ball and reasonably snuggly over the shaft.
 

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   / Going to try swapping my lift arms left-for-right…
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Let me try uploading some video.. it may or may not happen with the crappy DSL out here west of Hooterville…

UPDATE: I guess I have to join Vimeo or something and then post a URL of the video… that will have to wait until later when my device is fully charged 🫤
 
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   / Going to try swapping my lift arms left-for-right…
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#14  
   / Going to try swapping my lift arms left-for-right…
  • Thread Starter
#16  
A couple screengrabs from the video (MrsKilroyJC insists on portrait not landscape…)
 

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   / Going to try swapping my lift arms left-for-right…
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#17  

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