Gonna need some help on this one.

   / Gonna need some help on this one. #11  
I like these outside the box answers, even if impractical.
Maybe remove the rear tire assemble from the mower and connect trailer at the former swivel point; mount the seat on the trailer tongue.
This makes the mower discharge closer to trailer, and there's still only one swivel point.
Easy, all it takes is your time and money.
If this is like the scag I used the rear tire steers the mower so doubt it can be removed.
This is probably the worst style of mower to add a collection system to.
 
   / Gonna need some help on this one. #12  
This is why I'll never have lawn of the year. I hate buying a mower not to mention all the add ons.
 
   / Gonna need some help on this one. #13  
Your grandmother wants this done, you'll figure out something, you always do what she wants or else.
 
   / Gonna need some help on this one. #14  
How about a fixed hard mount - 2 points vertical pivot only - and put a pair of castor tires under the hopper, that way the unit will swing albeit in a wide radius in turns, but the hose to the deck which from my experience w/ the same unit - is the weakest link and hardest to keep good integrity on. I have problems w/ the hose wanting to pop loose in tighter turns especially left hand ones.
 
   / Gonna need some help on this one.
  • Thread Starter
#15  
   / Gonna need some help on this one. #16  
How about a fixed hard mount - 2 points vertical pivot only - and put a pair of castor tires under the hopper, that way the unit will swing albeit in a wide radius in turns, but the hose to the deck which from my experience w/ the same unit - is the weakest link and hardest to keep good integrity on. I have problems w/ the hose wanting to pop loose in tighter turns especially left hand ones.

This is the method I would use. Rigid mount to the mower along both sides where your feet rest and change the wheels on hopper to caster type. Gonna need some welding and fabbing skills to make it work but certainly doable.
 
   / Gonna need some help on this one. #17  
How about a fixed hard mount - 2 points vertical pivot only - and put a pair of castor tires under the hopper, that way the unit will swing albeit in a wide radius in turns, but the hose to the deck which from my experience w/ the same unit - is the weakest link and hardest to keep good integrity on. I have problems w/ the hose wanting to pop loose in tighter turns especially left hand ones.
This is the method I would use. Rigid mount to the mower along both sides where your feet rest and change the wheels on hopper to caster type. Gonna need some welding and fabbing skills to make it work but certainly doable.
Yes, I think this is the best approach. You will need a frame that wide enough to clear the steering swing. You should be able to anchor the hose to that frame almost all the way to the mower deck.
 
   / Gonna need some help on this one. #18  
I think the suggestions to somehow ridged mount it might be the better way to go (and boy will it take a country mile to turn around with that thing hanging off the keister), but if you still want to tow it...

I'm not quite 100% understanding how it turns other than that rear wheel has to pivot; but what about a U shaped hitch that attaches to the axle bolt and then a piece of chain from the frame to the hitch to keep it from folding downward when there's no pulling force (or maybe a ridged brace to also keep it from riding up when you back up).
 
   / Gonna need some help on this one. #19  
Another advantage to a fully rigid mount (other than those "40 acre turns") - you should be able to completely do away with that flex tubing, and you might even keep enough flow for it to WORK - I have an older JD mower (normal rider type) and the DR version of that Agrifab, and it's only good for BONE DRY leaves and grass - and mine only has about HALF as much flex tubing as the Agrifab pic...

Think along the lines of a wood shop dust collection system - as little flex as possible, straight runs best, 45 degree elbows second best, 90's ONLY where you don't have enough radius for TWO 45's, etc -

I've considered re-doing my DR pickup to use with my ZTR, but it's so tongue-heavy I would need front counterweights on the ZTR to keep from doing wheelies; I'd also need to mod the frame of the DR so it had TWO tongues and add two "receivers" with vertical pivots to the back of the mower. Also replace the weenie little tires on the DR with larger, caster types.

I would COMPLETELY do away with ANY flex, just use two slightly loose fitting 45's as a SWIVEL, inline with the hitch pivot points -

I still may do that, but it ain't gonna be a "saturday afternoon" project... Steve
 
   / Gonna need some help on this one. #20  
You'll need articulation for the rigid mount unless your land is completely flat.
When I built my vac I didn't provide enough torsional movement in the mount and it caused all kinds of traction problems, 4th season I made a new mount that allowed for easy vertical and torsional movement and haven't had a problem with traction, this is used on a decent size garden tractor.

Tongue weight can be an issue, I made a new blower a couple years ago and it ended up adding a bit more tongue weight then I was hoping for but one the hopper starts filling it balances out ok.

Finding decent heavy casters was my biggest problem, I ended up finding someone that would get some cyclone rake casters for me (they won't sell parts unless you own one).
DR offers a conversion for the newer vacs that you might be able to get the casters from.
Attaches to a std. 2in receiver hitch
20151113_173644.jpg
20151113_173753.jpg20151113_173741.jpg free range of motion 20151116_123031.jpg20151113_173956.jpg
Vac attached and blower housing showing how short the tongue is
 

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