Got a new project: Bush Hog Rotary Cutter

[Jarrett]

I picked up a new project this past weekend. I've been wanting to get a rotary cutter (aka down here, "bush hog") . With us trying to save some money to buy a place the wife wasn't too crazy about spending much money on one, I decided to ask my great uncle if he'd be interested in selling his. I made a deal with him to let me take it, clean it up and see how much work it needs. If it doesn't need too much then I'll buy it. He said he'd take $50 for it.

 

[Jarrett]

I didn't have a chance to really look at it to see what kinda work it needs. I only had time to pick it up and bring it to my Dad's shop. My father-in-law has a little sandblaster he said I can use so I'm going to try to get back down there in a couple weeks to start cleaning it up. It's at my Dad's shop which is about 40 miles away. I wish it was closer so I could work on it more often.
I called up Bush Hog to try to get an idea of how old it is by the serial number. The guy I talke to said they don't have any records of serial numbers that far back. He said all the Model 12's within the last 20+ years start with 11- or 12- something. He said it could be from the late 50's or 60's or so. Does anyone else know anything about these? I know it's hard to tell the condition from the pics but does it look like a deal?

 

[jinman]

I didn't have a chance to really look at it to see what kinda work it needs. I only had time to pick it up and bring it to my Dad's shop. My father-in-law has a little sandblaster he said I can use so I'm going to try to get back down there in a couple weeks to start cleaning it up. It's at my Dad's shop which is about 40 miles away. I wish it was closer so I could work on it more often.
I called up Bush Hog to try to get an idea of how old it is by the serial number. The guy I talke to said they don't have any records of serial numbers that far back. He said all the Model 12's within the last 20+ years start with 11- or 12- something. He said it could be from the late 50's or 60's or so. Does anyone else know anything about these? I know it's hard to tell the condition from the pics but does it look like a deal?

If the gearbox is good, it's a steal at $50. It won't work any better if it has a shiny new paint job. I'd drain the oil and add new 90w to the gearbox. Also sharpen the blades. If the stump jumper is tight, I would not try to take it or the blades off. Just sharpen the blades in place with an angle grinder after you lean the cutter up against a tree.

You might have to replace the seals on the gearbox, but maybe not if you are lucky.

 

[firemanpat2910]

If the seals are bad and the oil runs out fill it full of grease and let'r rip.
that one is almost as shiny new as my old JD brand. I agree dont loosen a tight stump jumper,grind a dull smooth edge and have at it. If you leave blades dull they wont make tire eating spikes out of brush,and brush wont heal and grow back as fast with a shredded top. (I have no scientific proof of this heck I probably didnt even spell "scientific" right) but it sure seems to do better on my cutter.

 

[Jarrett]

It's been sitting up for a probably 4 or 5 years. I know for a fact it worked fine when he parked it. I'm going to check the gearbox for leaks and make sure it works before putting any work into it. I know the PTO shaft is too short. I hooked up to it a couple years ago to use it and the shaft was too short. Maybe if I add a slip clutch to it it'll be long enough? Why shouldn't I take the stump jumper or blades off? I'd like to change the blades. If it still works good I'd like to basically do a refurb like Soundguy did with his batwing.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

If the seals are bad and the oil runs out fill it full of grease and let'r rip.
that one is almost as shiny new as my old JD brand. I agree dont loosen a tight stump jumper,grind a dull smooth edge and have at it. If you leave blades dull they wont make tire eating spikes out of brush,and brush wont heal and grow back as fast with a shredded top. (I have no scientific proof of this heck I probably didnt even spell "scientific" right) but it sure seems to do better on my cutter.

Too sharp of a blade will tend to hatchet into stumps and bigger brush, sticking like a dart instead of bouncing off and making the blades swing back on impact. And on the theory of "tire eating spikes", I've got a fairly new, but totally trashed 16.9X30" Goodyear radial that makes a very expensive planter out by the shop. It has a nice 2" hole smack in the middle of the tread. You most definately want 'em splintered instead of cut off clean.

 

[scott_vt]

Mornin Jarrett,
Looks like you got a steal !!! You cant even get a good weather report for $50 today

I paid $500 for a used Bushog Squealer 5ft a few yeras ago, paint was still intact, but guess what, it will do the same job that rusty old unit will do

Like the others have said, change out the gear lube and touch up the blades with an angle grinder and use it !!!

Good luck with it !

 

[KYErik]

Good buy!

You will need to find a tail wheel (crazy wheel) and bolt it to that rear bracket (or just weld it on) otherwise the back of the hog will dig in when your front wheels go up a sharp incline. It might work OK on flat ground as is.

 

[RonR]

Once you spin it over a little with the tractor, I'd take the PTO loose and see if you can feel rough spots in the bearings as you turn it over by hand. Might not be able to tell.

Before I spent a lot of time painting/sandblasting it, I'd change the oil in the box and try it out. No sense having a shiny new looking inoperable unit. Should work fine for you. And for $50, you can use it a few times and scrap it and not be out anything.

ron

 

[Jarrett]

Good buy!

You will need to find a tail wheel (crazy wheel) and bolt it to that rear bracket (or just weld it on) otherwise the back of the hog will dig in when your front wheels go up a sharp incline. It might work OK on flat ground as is.

I have the wheel & bracket. I have no idea why he removed it. It doesn't look broken.