I had a Case that I ran a 5 1/2' box blade on, now I am trying to get used to running an 8' blade on a larger tractor. The box blade was a lot easier to get used to, and it had scarifier teeth that could be dropped manually and used (or not) by tilting the top link. Much easier than the blade for general smoothing, especially if I loosened up enough dirt to be able to level (move the high spots into the low). But -- still required slow, methodical work. The blade lets you crown more, still the same highs and lows if you work too fast. haven't figured it out yet. But will! Been eyeing an old axle I have laying around to make a gage wheel out of. If you look at your tractors wheel base, and then at the distance from the center of the rear wheel and your blade, you will see why there is a certain distance (or 'rythm') to your work (presuming you are not working the weed clumps issue). Nothing but small bites, slow speed, and a good eye to fix that. A box blade should be at least as wide as the tractor wheels. It will not allow much crowning though.
On your gravel drive you will find that if you over work the gravel it will separate out the different sizes of gravel and become difficult to get even (or, you will find where it is thin for the same reason -- not enough material of the same size to make it smooth). At least that is what I found.
Pushing a blade should be taken with a word of advice: Lots of pressure here and easy to bend your lift arms. Just pay attention to what you are trying to do.
A box blade loosely emulates having a a gage wheel, by creating a longer area to drag on the ground (versus suspending the blade between the gage wheel and the rear wheel of the tractor -- like how a road grader blade is hung). There are a number of outfits making road drags (usually looks something like two sled runners with one to three angle iron blades on the ground). In any case, you will need at least some loose dirt (or a way to loosen the high spots), as the blade works on angle of bite and gravity (no down pressure). They do make add on scarifier teeth for blades, but I wouldn't know if that is cost effective. My ancient unit has a drawing of a set added on. If you could add a scarifier blade to the top and it allows for rotating that would be an interesting option.
All about $! I found a hand built (some would call that 'custom') arena rake made from bits of old implements for ~$125. It was several cultivator spring teeth and two implement wheels mounted as gage wheels. A bit cobby, but nothing wrong with it. Works well to loosen up the ground and then run the blade. I run it a few times to make different spaced grooves, then the blade takes over. Still working out the 'whoops' in my work (wife is not amused that her arena is rough now). But getting better at it.
On your gravel drive you will find that if you over work the gravel it will separate out the different sizes of gravel and become difficult to get even (or, you will find where it is thin for the same reason -- not enough material of the same size to make it smooth). At least that is what I found.
Pushing a blade should be taken with a word of advice: Lots of pressure here and easy to bend your lift arms. Just pay attention to what you are trying to do.
A box blade loosely emulates having a a gage wheel, by creating a longer area to drag on the ground (versus suspending the blade between the gage wheel and the rear wheel of the tractor -- like how a road grader blade is hung). There are a number of outfits making road drags (usually looks something like two sled runners with one to three angle iron blades on the ground). In any case, you will need at least some loose dirt (or a way to loosen the high spots), as the blade works on angle of bite and gravity (no down pressure). They do make add on scarifier teeth for blades, but I wouldn't know if that is cost effective. My ancient unit has a drawing of a set added on. If you could add a scarifier blade to the top and it allows for rotating that would be an interesting option.
All about $! I found a hand built (some would call that 'custom') arena rake made from bits of old implements for ~$125. It was several cultivator spring teeth and two implement wheels mounted as gage wheels. A bit cobby, but nothing wrong with it. Works well to loosen up the ground and then run the blade. I run it a few times to make different spaced grooves, then the blade takes over. Still working out the 'whoops' in my work (wife is not amused that her arena is rough now). But getting better at it.
