OP
workinonit
Elite Member
Nice haul of implements.
Got em both home!
- Thread starter workinonit
- Start date
DJ54
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2009
- Messages
- 4,224
- Location
- Carroll, Ohio
- Tractor
- IH Farmall 656 gas/ IH 240 Utility/ 2, Super C Farmalls/ 2, Farmall A's/ Farmall BN/McCormick-Deering OS-6/McCormick-Deering O-4/ '36 Farmall F-12/ 480 Case hoe. '65 Ford 2000 3 cyl., 4 spd. w/3 spd Aux. Trans
Not nearly as pretty as yours, but it runs great. It spent its life cultivating, along the Ohio River. I'massuming the original owner, not the one I bought it from,had it rigged for cultivating at night. If you look close, you can see a small flood type headlight mounted to the inside of the right differential.
That was removed,and I put it back to the original 6V system, and completely rewired the harness from scratch using a color coded wire schematic I found online. Someone did a hack job 12V conversion, and to be honest, looked like an electrical fire waiting to happen. I bought the proper color wire, and solder type terminals, and went to work. Double shrink wrapped the wire at the terminal ends, just because. Turned out very well.
It didnt have FH, but did find one reasonable near Lansing, MI., and put it on. Newrear tires, and double rear wheel weights, because the plan was to pull the potato digger with it. But,due to hitch height on the digger, and the drawbar being at the bottom of the FH, it wouldn't raise it high enough, so pulled it with my 240. I've since found a single FH prong, I plan to make a proper drawbar to pull it.
I bought a 194 plow off the same guy I got the FH off of. I questioned him about it, becase it had the prefix of Cub, ahead of the model number. He said it would fit. Yes, it fits, but won't work. The Cub beam has more curvature to it, and even with the front bail lowered to the max, to get it to nose in, is still not enough.
I bought a 130 last Fall, and got a very nice 194 plow with it. It has a high speed share on it. I put it on the 140, and took it to our tractor clubs plowing day last Fall, and had a ball plowing with it. Here at home, I only plow the garden, and it's only 100' long. It was fun to get in a big field, and run with the big dogs..!! Took a short video of plowing back in Nov. Fairfield Co. Ohio Antique Tractor Club Plow Day 11/14/2020. Diehl Farm Ashville, OH. - YouTube
One of the guys spent hours plowing off the ends with a Cub, and having to dead head back around, to make another lap. That's when I got the idea to find a 2-way plow, to plow off the ends. I can be in my own space, and work at my own pace. Plus the fact I alwaysplowmy garden one way, uphill, due to the slope it's on, so a win-win for me. Can't wait to try it out..!!
That was removed,and I put it back to the original 6V system, and completely rewired the harness from scratch using a color coded wire schematic I found online. Someone did a hack job 12V conversion, and to be honest, looked like an electrical fire waiting to happen. I bought the proper color wire, and solder type terminals, and went to work. Double shrink wrapped the wire at the terminal ends, just because. Turned out very well.
It didnt have FH, but did find one reasonable near Lansing, MI., and put it on. Newrear tires, and double rear wheel weights, because the plan was to pull the potato digger with it. But,due to hitch height on the digger, and the drawbar being at the bottom of the FH, it wouldn't raise it high enough, so pulled it with my 240. I've since found a single FH prong, I plan to make a proper drawbar to pull it.
I bought a 194 plow off the same guy I got the FH off of. I questioned him about it, becase it had the prefix of Cub, ahead of the model number. He said it would fit. Yes, it fits, but won't work. The Cub beam has more curvature to it, and even with the front bail lowered to the max, to get it to nose in, is still not enough.
I bought a 130 last Fall, and got a very nice 194 plow with it. It has a high speed share on it. I put it on the 140, and took it to our tractor clubs plowing day last Fall, and had a ball plowing with it. Here at home, I only plow the garden, and it's only 100' long. It was fun to get in a big field, and run with the big dogs..!! Took a short video of plowing back in Nov. Fairfield Co. Ohio Antique Tractor Club Plow Day 11/14/2020. Diehl Farm Ashville, OH. - YouTube
One of the guys spent hours plowing off the ends with a Cub, and having to dead head back around, to make another lap. That's when I got the idea to find a 2-way plow, to plow off the ends. I can be in my own space, and work at my own pace. Plus the fact I alwaysplowmy garden one way, uphill, due to the slope it's on, so a win-win for me. Can't wait to try it out..!!
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OP
workinonit
Elite Member
Good looking 140. People have no idea how plowing is supposed to be done if they have never run a 140. Mine will likely never see a turn plow but I'm not opposed to it. My cousin just found a good 100 he bought and we are going to get it as soon as it dries off enough to not mess up the lady's yard. One of mine needs a ton of work. i think all the gaskets on it are leaking. I plan to restore it since I have to do something with the smoking engine. But it runs like a top. Thanks for the pick and plow on!
DJ54
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2009
- Messages
- 4,224
- Location
- Carroll, Ohio
- Tractor
- IH Farmall 656 gas/ IH 240 Utility/ 2, Super C Farmalls/ 2, Farmall A's/ Farmall BN/McCormick-Deering OS-6/McCormick-Deering O-4/ '36 Farmall F-12/ 480 Case hoe. '65 Ford 2000 3 cyl., 4 spd. w/3 spd Aux. Trans
I've got my 130 in the shop right now, and doing what you need to do. All the differential, and axle seals needed replaced, along with the gaskets. It's been in the shop since sometime in Jan. and finally got around to starting on it a couple weeks ago. Knowing what I needed, I got the part numbers from the Case/IH online parts catalog, and crossed ther part numbers through several different sources. Most, I just did a Gppgle search for the OEM number, and some vendors post pics of the seals, showing the crossed P/N, most are National, or CR seals. Once I got that number, I searched across the net, from ebay, to local sources. Ended up getting all of the seals, except 3, for the pto, differential shafts, and axles through Rock Auto. All of the seals, plus shipping was less than one axle seal from Case/IH, and probably the same National seal. The outer axle seals Rock Auto did not have, so checked locally. Amazing the price difference in 4 local places. O'Reilly's Auto Parts beat a local/regionalbearing supply by $8.00 ea., and NAPA by $5. They did not have it in stock, like the others, but I ordered it last evening about 7:30, and was in the store by 2:30 today.
When I did the 140 late last summer, it needed the pto bearings, gaskets, and seals. The bearing I got off a seller here in Ohio, for 1/4 the price of any local suppliers, and they are USA Timken, or SKF NOS bearings. Seals from Rock Auto, and a gasket set from Steiner. This time, since the weather has been nasty, I decided to make my own gaskets, tapping them out with a ball pein hammer. The 18" X 72" rol of gasket material was less than half the gasket set needed from Steiner, and eough material to make 4-5 more sets. I got another thinner roll for like $6, to make other gaskets where the other material may be too thick, due to gear clearance. I mic'd the old gaskets, to be sure to get the right thickness. They all turned out very well, just takes a little time and patience, and several more pointed ball pein hammers. And, a good way to re-purpose an old steam iron, to flatten out the rolled material.
A few of the gaskets on the 130 I reused. Bolts holding the seal retainercaps,and plates were just barely more than finger tight, so no wonder they were leaking. I'd say a PO had been in to it before, and barely snugged the bolts, without torquing them. They pretty much fell off the retainer plates,when I took them off. Sprayed them with brake cleaner, and they look pretty decent. Let them dry onaflat surface, then when installing, used Permatex brush on Prime Seal. It seals very well, but if you ever take it apart, it releases from the surfaces, not ruining the gasket. So far, I figure I've saved around $125 doing it his way. Not much to some, but I figure that's money that can be put towards getting the starter and generator rebuilt. I should get the left finalput back together in a couple days, and will then have to split it, andsee where an oilleak is coming from. I'm suspecting the rear main seal from the type of oil leaking. That I will go ahead and get the felt seal/gasket set. And, looks like the input shaft seal may be leaking too. Hoping just a seal will take care of that, without having to get a speedi-sleeve.
When I did the 140 late last summer, it needed the pto bearings, gaskets, and seals. The bearing I got off a seller here in Ohio, for 1/4 the price of any local suppliers, and they are USA Timken, or SKF NOS bearings. Seals from Rock Auto, and a gasket set from Steiner. This time, since the weather has been nasty, I decided to make my own gaskets, tapping them out with a ball pein hammer. The 18" X 72" rol of gasket material was less than half the gasket set needed from Steiner, and eough material to make 4-5 more sets. I got another thinner roll for like $6, to make other gaskets where the other material may be too thick, due to gear clearance. I mic'd the old gaskets, to be sure to get the right thickness. They all turned out very well, just takes a little time and patience, and several more pointed ball pein hammers. And, a good way to re-purpose an old steam iron, to flatten out the rolled material.
A few of the gaskets on the 130 I reused. Bolts holding the seal retainercaps,and plates were just barely more than finger tight, so no wonder they were leaking. I'd say a PO had been in to it before, and barely snugged the bolts, without torquing them. They pretty much fell off the retainer plates,when I took them off. Sprayed them with brake cleaner, and they look pretty decent. Let them dry onaflat surface, then when installing, used Permatex brush on Prime Seal. It seals very well, but if you ever take it apart, it releases from the surfaces, not ruining the gasket. So far, I figure I've saved around $125 doing it his way. Not much to some, but I figure that's money that can be put towards getting the starter and generator rebuilt. I should get the left finalput back together in a couple days, and will then have to split it, andsee where an oilleak is coming from. I'm suspecting the rear main seal from the type of oil leaking. That I will go ahead and get the felt seal/gasket set. And, looks like the input shaft seal may be leaking too. Hoping just a seal will take care of that, without having to get a speedi-sleeve.
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workinonit
Elite Member
Good information DJ. I have been surprised to find out how available parts are for these tractors. There's a parts store a few miles from me that can and will get any part for a 140. And I've seen mutiple places online.