got my pto-generator today.

have_blue · Sep 10, 2004

( url=http://www.nhc.noaa.gov/refresh/graphics_astorm9+shtml/090853.shtml?]http://www.nhc.noaa.gov/refresh/graphics_astorm9+shtml/090853.shtml?[/url]
)

Here's mine http://www.weatherunderground.com/tropical

Click on "Computer Models" for the the latest projections.

Soundguy · Sep 10, 2004

( I always test it before-hand on a known hot wire)

Yep.. I have about 6 voms.. of varying size and complexity. Everything from a little analog job for things that need a meter swing.. like to see a cap charging.. up to a nice freq counting all the bells'n whistles.. computer hook-upable.. meter. with thermometer.. duty cycle measuring.. etc. wave/bar graph.. data hold.. etc.

Even after I killed the breaker, and the outside disconnect ( pull and flip switch ) I still put the meter on the wires at the pressure switch before I touched them... just a -good - habit as you point out.

I just added the jumper/wire box at my well pump. i ran my wire over from the pressure switch and left it coiled in the jumper box. When I hook up the genny, I'll hook to that connection, and leave the house isolated.. but with the breakers off just in case.

Soundguy

Soundguy · Sep 10, 2004

( Does anyone know of any smaller pto generators )

Northern also sells a 7.kkw pto genny...

Soundguy

rcmike · Sep 10, 2004

Thanks KiotiJohn and Soundguy. I actually looked at the Northern Tool catalog and saw the larger ones at the top of the page but missed the smaller one. I'll have to check into them.

Inspector507 · Sep 10, 2004

Jerry,
The neutral is attached to that wire that disappears underground. It is the ground for the pole/transformer, commonly called a butt wrap, because it's wrapped in circles on the bottom or butt of the pole.

mahlers · Sep 10, 2004

Thanks for that info - I thought that was how they did it, but didn't know for sure. So the neutral really is just a very good ground. I had a dilemma a while ago where two-wire 240 volts were run to an outbuilding, but they didn't run neutral line or a ground. It was about a 700' run, and I didn't want to have to run a neutral all the way back to main box, so I tried to make my own neutral with a series of ground rods. Needless to say, it never did work right, so I had to run that neutral all the way to the box. I thought that maybe there was some sort of magic going on in the transformer that made the neutral line work - but now I think that my ground was just not conductive enough to accept the current.

LeRoi · Sep 10, 2004

Jerry,
The wire that runs from your house to the transformer should also be connected to the transformer case, the ground wire on the pole, and one of the overhead wires that feed the transformer. The pole ground (in the shield) ties the high voltage neutral, also called the system neutral, on top of the transformer to the low voltage neutral (on the middle bushing on the side of the transformer to earth ground.
Your panel box is tied to ground (it's called the equipment ground) to protect you from getting shocked if there is a bad connection on one of the other wires.
I hope this answers your question without being unnecessarily technical. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Inspector507 · Sep 10, 2004

mahlers,
It is against "code" to use the Earth as the sole means to ground/neutral. And very dangerous, usually doesn't work and will get someone killed.

v8dave · Sep 10, 2004

( Thanks for that info . . . So the neutral really is just a very good ground. I had a dilemma a while ago . . . I didn't want to have to run a neutral all the way back to main box, so I tried to make my own neutral with a series of ground rods. . . but now I think that my ground was just not conductive enough to accept the current. )

The neutral is the return line in a 115 volt circuit, it shouldn't actually be needed in a 230 volt system unless the load is being split--which appears to be your case.

|--115 v--| --115 v--|
|-------220 v---------|

^ black wire
-----------^ white wire
------------------------^ another black or sometimes a red wire
Between the two 115 volt hot wires there is 230 volts.

It is dangerous to assume neutral is ground and vice versa. Neutral, the white wire, is "bonded" to an earth ground at one point in your home's system [and may be bonded to earth again in a shop or outbuilding]. The normal return is this white wire and the ground (a bare wire or green wire) is there for safety purposes.

Ground Fault Circuit Interruptor, GFCI, safety devices depend on this distinction. They look for ground return current and if they find any they trip the circuit open. Some work by measuring the current on the hot and return (neutral) lines, and if they aren't equal they trip the circuit open--because that means current is flowing some place it shouldn't be, like in the ground/earth circuit, and that current may be electrocuting you. When a system uses the earth intentionally as a return, besides being dangerous, it confuses all the safety devices.

Besides being against the National Electric Code, NEC, the reason it is dangerous to use the ground/earth as a return is the earth isn't a good conductor and sometimes the grounds aren't properly tied down If the system is returning juice through the ground/earth you might happen to be a better conductor for return electricity and it will pass through you. How might this happen? How about grabbing a pipe while standing on a damp floor, brushing up against a piece of equipment that has a loose ground, etc. Previous posts have a few fine bad examples.

Excuse the rant. Please--safety first! Live long, live to ride.

greenville7491 · Sep 10, 2004

To v8dave:

I was thinking that neutral should only be bonded to ground at one point only(main panel). If it was bonded at more than one point, ground loops would be created. Neutral and ground should not be bonded at the barn, current should only flow back in the neutral for a split voltage configuration ??????????