Got spacers in, can't break wheel bolts/nuts - what next?

[the old grind]

Right, but we don't get anywhere near rated torque from an air-powered impact gun when we use the common size fittings and 3/8" hoses that work for most other things.

There's another size 'up' in fittings and 1/2" hoses can be plumbed from tank with their own pressure reg. Milton has a nice hi-flow tweak on the classic size, with a bit more than the 3/16" hole we've been choked down to in any of the now color coded types.

I have a nice 3/4" impact gun that even with better flow has shown limits that were surpassed by a cheapo breaker bar and say 30-42" Johnson-bar.

btw, I don't like to resort to the blue wrench on painted stuff. Gibbs trumps Kroil, 50/50 ATF & acetone is tops (shake well, repeat apps mostly or all acetone) Blaster and Liquid Wrench have good products. All benefit from soaking and re-applying. (you guys knew that )

 

[Jstpssng]

I'm late to the party as usual. It sounds like the OP has his upgrade under control. However, I'd like to point out that while WD-40 works as a lubricant, it really isn't a penetrating oil. Some of the fluids mentioned by other posters work much better.

 

[ctgoldwing]

There is another penetrating oil product that was designed for the aircraft industry that I have had great success with on severely rusted bolts called "Mouse Milk".

I have no idea where that name came from . And everyone here has gone through all of the possible jokes on the name! :laughing:

But the fact is the dang stuff works better than any penetrating oil I have come across. Takes just a few drops and if you let it sit for several hours that odds are good that a rusted bolt will easily break free. It was amazing how it loosened 1 1/2" bush hog blade bolts that had been on for 30 + years. You still need good wrenches and breaker bars, but you minimize the risk of wringing a bolt in two. It is expensive and can be ordered on line. But no where near as expensive as drilling out a broken bolt. W. Jones

Just had to resurrect this thread and say thank you 52wej! My L3800 can to me with a terminally seized 3ph speed control. I had tried WD40 and then some highly recommended penetrating oil. With a Channellock on it I was able to make it 'squeak' once. You know, that squeak just before you have 2 shafts instead of one
I ordered in the Mouse Milk, put it on the shaft and let it sit overnight. Literally I can turn it with 2 fingers now. It's magic!
Thanks for posting the info.