Got started putting 1948 Allis Model B engine back together.

[radios1]

Thanks for the heads up on the points because we're discussing doing that.

Do you know the why of this issue?

It is currently running a 12 factory looking generator but seems to have come with a magneto originally.

transistorized ignitions, if properly timed, they are better than points.. yes, it does need to be properly timed with a timing light.. and as far as magnetos go, magneto's are the most reliable, that's why aircraft piston engines use them, nothing else..

 

[Paystar]

I love it gale Hawkins! I am also learning a lot about Allis Chalmers. I just bought a 1955 CA that I am going to restore.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

I love it gale Hawkins! I am also learning a lot about Allis Chalmers. I just bought a 1955 CA that I am going to restore.

Thanks Paystar. I think later models B, C CA's had the same 125 cubic inch engine perhaps.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Well coolant started to getting into the crankcase. Head gasket proved to be fine. Sleeve O rings proved to be fine.

Sleeve #4 cracked around the two lower O ring grooves. We had reused the old sleeves and pistons. After the first 5 hours we changed the oil and it was free of coolant so not sure when it cracked. That is a very thin area of the sleeve.

We have the old sleeves out and the block washed out with gas as of late last night so after a dry inspection we plan to order a new sleeve, piston, rings rod bearings and sleeve o-rings set.

The shop owner let me clean up and hone the old sleeves so I got a lot of first time experience going that deep into an engine. Wish this had not happened but on the redo we are going to revisit the steps. For some reason one rod bearing had a small hot spot showing. They were all at .002 clearance per Plastic Gauge. The crank looks clear rod wise. We did not drop the crankshaft caps.

I wanted to go with the standard 3 3/8" bore but it looks like the thinner 3 7/16" over bored sleeve kits are the only option. I am more concerned about forces on the crank than engine HP.

This time I plan to start with the Archoil AR9100 from the first fill of the crankcase and may just go with the Rotella T6 5W-40. The last time I ran 15W-40 diesel oil without the AR9100 for the first 5 break in hours.

 

[radios1]

Well coolant started to getting into the crankcase. Head gasket proved to be fine. Sleeve O rings proved to be fine.

Sleeve #4 cracked around the two lower O ring grooves. We had reused the old sleeves and pistons. After the first 5 hours we changed the oil and it was free of coolant so not sure when it cracked. That is a very thin area of the sleeve.

We have the old sleeves out and the block washed out with gas as of late last night so after a dry inspection we plan to order a new sleeve, piston, rings rod bearings and sleeve o-rings set.

The shop owner let me clean up and hone the old sleeves so I got a lot of first time experience going that deep into an engine. Wish this had not happened but on the redo we are going to revisit the steps. For some reason one rod bearing had a small hot spot showing. They were all at .002 clearance per Plastic Gauge. The crank looks clear rod wise. We did not drop the crankshaft caps.

I wanted to go with the standard 3 3/8" bore but it looks like the thinner 3 7/16" over bored sleeve kits are the only option. I am more concerned about forces on the crank than engine HP.

This time I plan to start with the Archoil AR9100 from the first fill of the crankcase and may just go with the Rotella T6 5W-40. The last time I ran 15W-40 diesel oil without the AR9100 for the first 5 break in hours.

you should use kerosene if anything to wash the block out, Gasoline is way too dangerous!. suggested: soap and water, followed by kerosene!..

 

[Gale Hawkins]

you should use kerosene if anything to wash the block out, Gasoline is way too dangerous!. suggested: soap and water, followed by kerosene!..

Plus it makes it hard to breath but the ethanol helped remove the antifreeze from the crankcase.

Got the new rebuild kit ordered today.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

The new rebuild kit came today from Steiner.

 

[Sonny580]

Mags. Are the least reliable!--had a bunch of them,--Now most have been changed to dist. ign.--Currently have a 38 B that is hand crank only and mag. ign. Guess what?--Won't start unless you pull start it! NO spark at crank speed. --This has been a problem with all mags. no matter what brands or what engines they are used on.
Aircraft ignitions are NOT anything like tractors.
Transistor ignitions are not successful in ALL engines.--- Old engines were not designed for them and some just can not be tuned so they work.-- I can't see spending that much money on something that has a 50-50 chance of not working on my engine. thanks; sonny580