Grader Box mod -- Rod through the tube

[davel8257]

My shanks (knives) have holes (top pic) -- and the pins take all the force up and down. I'd like to see how CrazyAl's setup looks.
I was thinking of making wedges (maybe out of hard wood) and driving into the bottom of the tube against the shank. The wedge would create friction between the shank and bottom of the tube. The bottom of the tube would then bear some of the upward force. I'd probably have to top on top to loosen things up when I wanted to adjust them back up.

I started the hole drilling process -- by hand. I started with a 1/4" pilot hole through both sides. I had to use a hand drill -- no way to use my drill press for this job. Whew... quite a task. I've got other stuff going on, so the next hole increment may be a few days away.

 

[crazyal]

It's not the best picture but here's how mine works. The yellow boxes are flat stock that's slid inside the 4"x4" square tube. The arrow points to the front of the BB. As the ripper tooth digs in the force pushes in the opposite direction to the arrow and against the lower (yellow) steel bar. It then pivots against it and the top of the ripper pushes against the upper (yellow) steel bar. The 5/8" pins never have any force on them.

The steel bars are full length. If you were to cut holes (torch, plasma cutter, grinder with a cut off wheel) on both sides of your boxblade you could slide the bars into the steel tube and then weld the ends to hold them in place. I think the bars are 1/2" or 5/8" by 1" thick flat stock. You would need to measure the inside of your tube and then deduct the width of the ripper and then divide by 2. You want steel slightly thinner than the number you come up with so it's easy to slide the ripper up and down in it's slot.

 

[davel8257]

That's good for soft dirt and the ripper sinks right in. My project involves a crushed rock driveway that is setup like concrete. I have another adult stand on the box in order to try to penetrate the surface. That's what's hard on the pins. {Note when I make several passes like this, the knives bring up old rock to the top. People walking up later swear that we have put down a new load of gravel.}

 

[crazyal]

How old is your BB? The teeth on the shanks should break the ground and the curve should draw them down. My drive gets as hard as cement and it takes a pass or two but they break it up pretty good. Once the tractor starts moving forward the shanks get wedged between the two pieces of steel inside the tube. Make sure the teeth aren't worn down. Also it helps if the gravel has had a little rain to help soften it up.

 

[dougtrr2]

I guess I am confused as to why you want to tear up packed gravel, especially to the depth you seem to be after. If the lot is uneven I would think you would just take lighter passes to even it out. Just my two cents worth.

Take Care,
Doug in SW IA

 

[davel8257]

After doing some minor grading the top layer of gravel is gone. The packed sub-surface can be 'plowed' up with the grader box knives which brings up sub-surface stone. It really looks like a load of fresh stone has been dumped and spread when you are through.