Grading Grading gravel drive.

   / Grading gravel drive. #11  
In my area private parties usually buy it by the cubic yard, but most governmental agencies purchase by the ton, testing the moisture content and factoring that in. Cubic yards is a nice way, but you usually end up paying for some air. Years ago, we paid by the CYD - we would occcassional strike off a load of gravel. If the dump truck box was rated at 15 CYD (that's water level), the struck load would rarely fill the box - indicating anywhere from 10 to 12 CYD. Contractor's never fought these numbers. Quite often we would pay for all the previously hauled material at the same reduced volume - never lost a case in court. In order for a dump truck to haul it's rated box capacity, there has to be a huge heap on the load - as mentioned before, this makes up for the empty air space in the corner of the box.
So, buy it either way, just realize you are most likely paying more per CYD then the contractor/supplier quoted you.
penokee /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

ps: If buying by the ton, make sure the contractor/suppliers scales are certified accurate by a local or state agency.
 
   / Grading gravel drive. #12  
Baddog,
In my area it is sold my the ton because of weight limits on roads. When a truck pulls into the gravel pit or yard they drive on a scale if they haven't been weight previously for tare weight then load up and pull on the scale and pay for what weight they got.
I know I am half owner of a 8X16 GN dump trailer that we use for all our dirt and gravel work.
 
   / Grading gravel drive.
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Thanks for the replies.

I have decided to make my own tail wheel assy for my RB. I am going to make it similar to the Woods commercial setup. I am going to put on a cylinder so I can adjust the wheel height from the seat.

This will be an interesting experiment to see how well it works and a whole lot cheaper than buyinbg a new Woods. The Woods uses a top link type screw to manually adjust the height of the tail wheel.

The gravel pit I use sells by the yard. It is unattended. We use an AC loader with 3 yard bucket. The keys are left in it and there is a log in the cab to write down what you take and your name. You get a bill at the end of the month. I'm lucky to live 3 miles from this pit. I can use it 24/7. Many other pits around here have a scale.
 
   / Grading gravel drive. #14  
I'd suggest two gauge wheels. This will make it much easier to get an anngle or slope on the blade. Also be easier to lay out a windrow evenly.

If you check back Henro built a very nice set. I've also made some but they are pretty crude compared to Henro's.

Egon
 
   / Grading gravel drive.
  • Thread Starter
#15  
I was thinking two wheels were better but when I saw Woods with one, well....

I will go ahead with two. I'm not sure if hydraulic height is of value. I think I will make it manual to start. Mine should end up fairly nice. I have a customer/friend with a machine shop that will make all the parts. I'll do all the welding myself. Now I have to get started designing.
 
   / Grading gravel drive. #16  
I'm building the Woods single tail wheel set-up. I think it'll work very well. I'm not going to make my wheel adjust like theirs however.

Looks complicated for not much gain..

ram
 
   / Grading gravel drive.
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Looking at the Woods brochure there are two tailwheel setups. I like the on that uses a top link type screw to adjust the height. Since I have no experience with using gauge wheels yet I want to be able to adjust the wheels easily.
 

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